Yellowbelly

Interesting comment on whether missles on the fuselage would be cooked by the exhaust nozzels. I asked this question on the Harrier website and I was told that SHARs don't use the combination of Sidewinders and AIM 120s - that its either AIM 120 or AIM 9s, not combined. YB

I've got a F-35K Panda RN version - has all the V/STOL components except the swivle nozzel - I've no real rush to build it yet as I've got at least a Jaguar GR-3, Tonkas (2) and Lghtning to build before I even think about it. By then we might have alternatives or aftermarket kits to help me acurately build the F-35K. YB

Ah MM enamel paints - stir and keep on stiring each time you open the bottle. For stiring, I use the Badger paint stirer that takes 2 AA batteries. Used to use cocktail sticks but the Badger seems to mix the "gunky" stuff with the paint thinner in the bottle. Just be careful to replace lost paint thinner after each application. I lost 10+ bottles of MM enamel paints because I didn't stir and seal properly after use. I use clingfilm as is my preferred sealer under the cap + couple of drop of MM paint thinner after each application of paint. Keeps the paint thin and reduces extensive stirin

Saw tooth pick in half - superglu to the end of pick and missle. Easily snaps off once the rest of the missle is done. I clean and touch up end of missle without problems. I have little pine boards with holes drilled into them to place toothpick/kit pieces in for storage between painting sessions. Works fine and prevent loss of small resin pieces to the carpet gods who demand their sacrifices way too often. YB

I think you'll find that Tamiya masking tape is regarded as the best. Conforms well to complex shapes and comes off nice. If you're looking for tape from the hardware store, I've tried 3M Blue tape - it's a little too sticky for my liking and I wouldn't recommend with masking on MM Metalizers (not sure what works with those!!) but as long as you prepare the surfaces of your model that should work. I've also used white masking tape from the hardware store for flat surfaces and for covering large areas because it's real cheap. YB

It would be real nice if we could get a Sea Harrier and GR3 from big H. I've done a Tamiya FA1 with Eduard detail set and intend to do the Airfix FA-2 with the Flightpath conversion set. But after building a Hasegawa FGR-2 and doing a chalk wash that shows the fantastic details I hope Hasegawa meets our needs for a quality kit to play with. YB

Joe, Interesting observation. My experience with Pollyscale acrylics ( Gloss and Matt clear coats/Reefer White) & Tamiya (Smoke and Clear Blue) is relatively new but I was impressed with both Pollyscale and Tamiya airbrush thinners. So I now have a choice - anyone know what's in these 2 thinners? YB

Great Models has the kit plus all the accessories you could dream of. YB

Just finished a Hasegawa FGR-2 with BB FGR-2/F4-J set. First time doing a resin cockpit set and it wsa a bugger to get the fit right. Accuracy is excellent - everything appears to be in the right place when I access the walk-around pictures on the ARC forum. I will use the wonderful F4-J ejector seats and possibly the RIO components with a future F4J (UK) build rather than investing in another new BB set. BB detail is superb but once you've closed up the fuselage and put the canopies on, you really don't see much. With a Tornado or modern jets, you'll probably see more but I don't think th

Just completed a FGR-2 Rhino with a Black Box cockpit and flightpath Matra rocket pods (hopefully will be posted by Steve later this year). It sits perfectly without nose weights. I doubt if the Rhino needs them OOB as the rear wheels are far back and the center of gravity is nicely in the middle plus there's no instructions saying weight is needed. YB

Avoid Aztek if you don't want to have airbrush frustration. I've had 2x 470s and finally decided to go with a real metal quality tool with a Badger 360. It has great control and I've had great results with MM enamels/metalizers/acrylics and Tamiya acrylics. The only thing I plan to use my Aztek for now is primers and metalizers which their tan nozzel does quite nicely. YB

I mask the canopy with Badger clean mask trimmed with scapel blade, airbrush black and then attach it with thin blutac along the edges to the cockpit and front windshield. Trim the squeezed blutac for airbrushing and there you have it. This technique is real useful especially if you are spraying a camo pattern and the canopy is big or long. Once you've done your airbrushing you can remove for decaling or keep on till you clear coated your model. As long as you are careful with your airbrushing you should have any problem with paint getting inside. YB

Lots of techniques outlined in the Tool & Tips section on the ARC main page. I used airbrushed MM Burnt Iron as a base for the inside of engines and weather the outside of the engines nozzles with smoke and clear blue to give a heated metal appearance. I'll send you some pictures to your email. YB

Lots of techniques outlined in the Tool & Tips section on the ARC main page. I used Burnt Iron as a base for the inside of engines and weather the outside of the engines nozzles with smoke and clear blue to give a heated metal appearance. I've attached a couple of pictures for review YB

Interesting observations on Humbrol paints. My only experience was using Extra Dark Sea Grey mixed with MM White enamel airbrushed on Tamiya Sea Harrier & MM Airbrush Thinner. I noticed it did clump together after about 2 weeks but it may be an issue with my preservation technique (add cling film once I open a MM Jar). Anyone had a similar experience mixing Humbrol and MM enamels? YB

What I normally do is seal MM Metalizer first, then decal and then seal with Pollyscale Matt or Satin. YB

Depends on whether you want hard or soft demarcation lines. I prefer using Badger film for hard lines camo patternsand paper masks with Blue Tac providing a little space so that the lines blend togehter. For straight lines, masking tape of your choice. YB

Edgar, From what I've seen SEPECAT Jaguar website there are some nice pictures but if you have some additional pics I'd appreciate it. YB

As always thanks for your help Murph. YB

Question says it all. Started Jaguar GR3 Airfix build after completing my Hasegawa FGR-2. While the outside of the model appears to have reasonable detail and I have the Eduard Photoetch and Flightpath set, the wheel wells (especially the front) have no detail at all. Does anyone have pictures so I can at least think about some scratch build detailing? YB

Thanks for the suggestions guys - I like the idea of slight sanding for the primer to bite on. Sounds like the consensus is roll it first before spraying so I'll try that. I will be also using my "Hold and Fold" set from the Small Shop for the first time so I'll give everyone my rookie feedback on its use. YB

Forum. Just about to start Airfix Jaguar GR3 and I acquired Eduard photoetch detail set. The challenge is that part of the set involves rolling the jet pipes to give a more realistic burner can/jet engine look than the pathetic kit parts. I want to prime and then apply mm metalizers and perhaps some Tamiya Smoke/blue inside the pipe. If I roll them up I may have some difficulty painting so can I apply primer and MM Metalizer to the semi-rolled state or will Enamel primer crack. Would acrylic work better? If so will I have the infamous cracking acrylic with hot paint over cold acylic?

Thanks guys - your feedback has been very helpful. Did any other RAF plane use the BL755? I've seen pictures of Phantom FGR-2 using them but I've already have a build of the FGR-2 41st Squadron with dual SNEB rocket pods on the inboards so that's not an option. What about Harriers? GR-3. 5 or 7? YB

Thanks for the information - saves me from buying another Flightpath kit. On the centerline issue, I remember seeing 1000lb iron bombs in tandem so just wondering if this could be done with CBUs. I would assume that for maximum lethality you would wish to have them on the wing pylons but would be interested in hearing from any RAF personnel about that configuration. YB

Guys, My next build will be Jaguar GR-3. I ordered the Flightpath Jaguar Fuel Tanks and Pods and 2 CBU-87 cluster bombs. I was wondering how these munitions are used on the Jaguar? The AirfiX kit does provide dual inboard pylon rails ls for use with the BL755 in a tandem arrangement. Can you use tandem set up for the CBU-97. If the answer is yes, can you use the central line for these cluster bombs? The set does allow for the new SUU-66 sensor fused weapon format which I think is the weapon designed to be used against tank formations so I wonder if you would want to use the outside py