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Everything posted by Miccara

  1. It's fun. Give it a shot. http://www.arcair.com/Gal5/4601-4700/gal4687-B-29-Shred/00.shtm They're are better articles, but this will give you an idea.
  2. Next time I'll let you know when we're coming out!
  3. Hi Chuck! Listen, it was great meeting and speaking to you. I've gone through your stuff and let me say... you are one of those sick bastards I could never compete with! lol!
  4. There was a guy at Maple Flag who was an ARC fan. We had a beer there... Your son was with you... you here?
  5. Jack, Jack, Jack my friend.... I forgot all about your part... it's in my desk drawer and I will start it this week and get it to you! lol! I was so happy to finish that friggin' F4, I forgot about it! Although I didn't finish the F4 until pretty much the end of February... about 3 months longer than I estimated. Larry
  6. This is my good-intentioned, well meaning, friendly advice... If you have made the commitment to build then make the commitment to buy an airbrush. I recommend gravity fed dual action. There is going to be a lot of different opinions on this and you can make your own choice. Mine is dual action, gravity fed. You can get a decent one for $100 or less, of course now you need to buy a compressor. This is another story, cheap one $50 - $100. Good one, around $250. Save, save, save. They are worth it in the long run. If you plan on buying canned propellant to power your airbrush for the first few uses - well that I can understand. After that, if you are not saving for a compressor then you are a foolish person. Canned propellant is outrageously expensive, provides no control, and will run out at exactly the worst possible time. Compressor is (technically) FREE AIR, on-going, unrestricted, adjustable FREE air. Free air means cleaning your airbrush in 90 seconds. No, you don’t need an airbrush to paint a model. You just need an airbrush to make it look the best it can. You can if you like hand paint it, and get a pretty good looking kit. It will never look as good as an airbrushed one does (angry emails coming my way now), but I understand your apprehension. Maybe it will help if I point out a few things. (a) You do not need to be an artist or possess artist talent to use an airbrush successfully. (B) They are not really that expensive © It is easy to learn and use (d) I’ll bet you’ll be happy with the results the first time you use it (e) They are not messy (f) They clean easily The most important thing to come to grips with is; you do not need to be an artist or possess artist talent to use an airbrush successfully. It is just another tool in your toolbox, sitting there with your hammer and screwdriver or in this case, your art knife and glue. I am the most untalented artist in the world. I can’t draw stickmen with any believability. This doesn’t hinder my ability to airbrush a model. Really, you will never regret going that route.
  7. I guess the part I find the most humorous about this is people are constantly say to me... "Wow, I just don't have the patience to build something that takes 3 months to do" or something like that... and all us here have probably heard the same thing... give or take. Yet when I think about all the patience it really does take to make a good model, it make me snicker when a guys here says "I'm too lazy to scrap the paint off" which AT BEST might take 30 seconds to do, and most likely 10 seconds! 4 hours to make seat belts out of tape and wire... no problem. Scrapping paint off... THAT's too much work... that's where I'm drawing the line!
  8. I don't find them superior, just easier. Enamels are really no problem, add a little thinner... spray away, no adhesion issues... never turn to a yogurt like goo on the end of your airbrush... I love them really. I use the acrylics for a few reasons... (a) Guilt-ed by the masses (B) I find the paint finish nicer © allows me to use enamels as washes, which I really, really like.
  9. Hi Cobus, If I may suggest... you will get a lot out of this PDF download. Go to http://www.2shared.com/file/8704001/fd67e639/Master-P47PDF1.html type in 151555 as the password and click on the BLUE download button. Larry Let me know if you find it helpful...
  10. I used Blu-Tack to fill the wing root gaps on a plane about a year ago. After filling it, I used a piece of bamboo dipped in hot water to smooth over the gap. Painted the kit and to this day, you can't tell... no cracks, nothing... so far. But boy it was easy to do and hasn't shrunk.
  11. I have never found a reliably method for MM Acrylics lol! I really dislike them. I swear up and down over MM Enamels, but use Tamiya Acrylics... alcohol and a few drops of retarder, decent prep work and nooooo problems...
  12. I stopped spraying Future a couple years ago. I found nothing beats a brush. 1" or so in with, top quality, very soft. There is a very small learning curve to brushing Future, but I find it to be by far, the best way. Just personal preference i guess.
  13. Opps... forgot my comments! I just could never drum up a sympathy for HC. To me they were the definition of corporate arrogance. I don't care how rare the subject was it was an embarrassment at how inaccurate and sloppy the kits were - and they did not care... as is evident by there total disregard of the complaints and inquires of hobbyists over the years. If you produce crap, you SHOULD go out of business. Some are not going to agree with me, and I'll probably get the usual "There are no bad kits, just bad builders" line... but really, it's not like their kits were $10. I paid some good cash for kits from them that were no joy to build. Listen, I don't mind a challenge - but some of them were just ridiculous.
  14. Got the parts Jack. I'm in the middle of an F4 build but will try to fabricate something for you just after Christmas, if that works for you...
  15. Miccara

    Jet Exhaust

    As a die hard prop guy, I'm lost when it comes to painting jet exhaust. I'm build a 1/32 F4 for a friend and have aftermarket exhausts for it. I need a build article that shows the painting process. Can you link me to one? Thanks folks!
  16. Yeah baby! 40 years later! I'm going to take a great deal of satisfaction from this build (even though I'm not building it!). Go Jack, go!
  17. What did you end up deciding? (just curious).
  18. Yeah... I miss rummaging through that box! I look forward to it, don't rush though...

  19. I use three types, enamels, acrylics and water colours. My problem with acrylics is they can be much more difficult to use. They start drying on the end of your airbrush while spraying, creating a wonderful yogurt concoction. Also once dry they can be very hard to remove. That’s okay on a model but not so good for the inside of an airbrush. Folks will write in to say “just add a few drops of alcohol, distilled water, thinner, stabilizer, enhancer, cleaner, etc. etc.†and “you’ll have no problemsâ€. I’ve been on the ARC website for a long time and I can tell you with confidence that if you search for all the articles about “How do I solve my acrylics and airbrushing problem†you’d be reading for a week straight, and still not really know the answer. What I do like about acrylics is the fact they tend to cover much better. I find the prep work has to be much better as well with acrylics or the possibility of the paint coming off with your masking, is pretty real. With enamels the cleanup is easy and they dry quickly on the model - even though I can sit with a cup of paint in my airbrush, re-mask an area for 5 minutes then pick up the airbrush and continue, very difficult to do with most acrylics. Enamels smell a bit but acrylics can have a hell of an odor too, as far as I’m concerned. I have moved to Tamiya Acrylics for 95% of what I do but if your new, there are a lot of issues and things to learn. I can tackle acrylic problems because they are the only problems I have to deal with while building and painting a kit. I think you will lessen your grief factor substantially if you just start out with enamels in your airbrush. Model Master is the enamel brand I use.
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