Jonathan S

All the best on this. Keep posting, it will help keep you motivated. :-)

Hobby Boss until we finally get the proper 1/48 A-10C many are waiting for.

No offense taken. You and I have talked on a few threads, and appreciate your input. Just thought strange as you seemed quick to dismiss, clearly I was wrong. I'm not completely sold on the ionized water thing either, but thought it worth mentioning in case any one has tried this with success and could give input. The Tamiya brush appears to be the most cost effective brush on anti-static I've seen.

I too am interested in the Tamiya brush, but to say the ionized water is "woo" - not sure the meaning there, but consider that the whole point is to ionize the plastic, both the brush and water can both work the same and both seem to be "woo." So try not to be closed minded. :-) I read that about the ionized water on a vinyl record forum.

Recently read somewhere that washing with Ionized water can help. Mostly used for anticipated health benefits. If it's not expensive, perhaps worth a try? I do like the look of that Tamiya brush though as well.

Agree, I've had the same problem. Mostly I just have to put the model aside for a while for the static to discharge on it's own. Usually a couple days. I wanted to ask this question recently as well. Wondered If there was a way to ground plastic models. I wanted to look into one of these:

Thank you fellow Canadian :-) My issue isn't with AMK, in fact a part of me still think they will release this kit. They have issued 5 other kits in the past, had box art and decals made for the F-14. But Sincere Hobby to ignore any requests for store credit is alarming.

I just don't understand how no one seems to get worked up about how Sincere Hobby has taken so many people pre-order money an yet does not respond to email requesting refunds or store credit. That to me is the biggest issue here as AMK can promise anything they want and we're not out any money, but the lack of response from Sincere Hobby is becoming fraudulent. Or am I the only one not getting replies from Sincere Hobby?

Although possibly some of the suggested fixes will not be changed when finally released, it might also be possible that if that was the case, that fixes aren't being done, we might have seen this kit released sooner. I can't imagine the frustration for AMK, they had a large supply of decals made for the release, box art done both at a cost with no return on investment, and to run into so many issues getting the kit just right.

Neat, thanks for sharing. Which AMK kit would be used to build one? B/BS or the BM/BSM?

I have Klear Kote by Alclad II, what's the difference beyond the name and that one is milky and other is clear? Thank you :-)

It is a separate effort. Where are they filming Tomcats...Iran?

Used Akan acrylic paints for the first time on a build. Found they are overall pretty good. They don't self level as well as Mission Model paints. Used Mission Model thinner and poly on the Akan paints and that worked very well. The paint can be thinned a lot so can make a small bottle go pretty far. I was thinning more than 50%. Looking forward to using Akan paints again. For primer I applied Alclad II black base, then a thin layer of Mission Model black primer. May think I'm crazy for applying a lacquer under a acrylic, but figured what's the difference in adhesion betwe

Because it pancaked, the decent wasn't quite as fast and was probably cushioned as it fell through the roof. Glad everyone made it home that night. Think of that F-106 that pancaked into the field and was almost perfectly fine from the outside.

I think it's one of their early works, so wont be redemption. The newest kits are certainly much better and there helicopters I hear are pretty good.

If you mean of all time, that's very difficult to say as most manufacturers don't say how many kits have sold. I know Trumpeter sold a lot of 1/32 A-10s and was one of their more successful releases, but it's not THAT popular. If you want an idea of what's popular right now, a helpful tool is available at scalemates.com: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/hot.php

Genre: Japanese WWI ships with WWII modifications and 1980s jets, Russian and US. Scale: mainly 1/350 and 1/48 Favorite Manufacturer is Kinetic. Like the subjects they chose.

Peter Share some photos of your results, we can post-mortem examine the results and possibly give better advice. Advice given here I think has been correct, but blind without photos. If you have 185 in the stash, I'd be considering getting an air brush. Lots of free video's on how to maintain, clean and use an airbrush. Also, if you are using lacquer based products, either way, use a good quality respirator or be outside in breezy conditions.

Be gentle when you work Mstor's above mentioned process as clear plastic is far more fragile.

another one just hit me: Either (I can't remember) the fan blades at the back or the front show to install after the engine is assembled, but wont fit once assembled.

Neither is great, but the Kitty Hawk is the best. I've enjoyed the Kitty Hawk building so far, but lots of errors in the instructions. Some basics to watch in the Kitty Hawk kit: 1) Attach the intakes prior to assembling the fuselage halves. 2) Many parts in the ejection seats don't have receiving pins, but build up really nicely with only a small amount of effort. 3) The HUD may be too tall to fit under the canopy. Mine was okay, but I shaved the base of the plastic base that holds the HUD. 4) The small intakes on each side of the spine show instal

Really like it, so bold to make an aircraft rusty looking like that. Wonder if this art was designed by a scale modeller? Will be looking for decals of this one. :-) https://theaviationist.com/2019/04/18/check-out-this-belgian-f-16-with-a-pretty-unusual-special-rusty-tiger-tail/

Mr Surface can be used as a filler and primer, but never as a polisher. It's lacquer based, so toxic. I apply with a brusht and then use a cotton ball or Q-tip with nail polish remover to take away any excess once dry. Always where gloves. Perfect Plastic Putty is similar, but not as runny. And non-toxic, can even remove with water (so make sure sealed before you wash to paint).

I've note used it as a filler. Not what I would recommend for a filler. I use depending on the seam being filled, Perfect Putty or Mr Surface. As for what I do use the Gator Grip for: Mainly PE, some canopies, and many landing gear doors. It's a fancy non-toxic white glue that dries clear. Check out my link provided as it shows it's use and technics.

Think can only buy direct for this product. Recommend buying two bottles, one of each type as for me the shipping was the same for two bottles as one. Follow the teachings on using the product to best results.