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Zactoman

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Everything posted by Zactoman

  1. Zactoman

    Su-33 paint schemes

    I just uploaded the following paint charts in 1/48 (@150 dpi): Links to the drawings are here: https://zactomodels.com/html/Su-33/Su-33_deal.htm (also note that I've reduced the price to $47 on the Su-33 kits I'm selling! Best price you'll find anywhere!) I spent a lot of time researching the camo schemes and documented them to the best of my ability. It frustrates me when I see kits that include multiple decal options but only show one camo scheme, especially on a plane where there is so much variation. There are also a bunch of small details that differ from one plane to another. Little details like the thin gray edge stripe under the cockpit is different on each of these schemes. Details like the gray forward section on the Bort 80 IRST. The bare metal tips on Bort 68s wingtip pylons. Etc. Also note the bare metal panel on the lower left fuselage just below the wing flap. I think I've only seen one build that included this. Note that I don't call out color recommendations on the charts or my web page. I've seen a lot of discussion and debate about which paint brands are most accurate and haven't seen a definitive answer. If I were building one I'd grab something close and make my own color adjustments. The main marking locations should be close. The markings were based on the decals that were being developed for the 1/48 kit before Kinetic took over and finished the project. The markings on the drawings are not necessarily accurate (especially the colors). Cross Delta ended up doing the decals for the Kinetic kit and I don't know how accurate they are either. I recommend Begemot Decals. They offer a sheet with early schemes (48-007 which includes Bort 80 above) as well as one for current schemes (48-051 Su-33 in Syria) which could be used to do the other schemes above. The stencils and stencil location on these drawings is questionable (wasn't carefully researched), so check your references. Again, I'd recommend Begemot. They have an Su-27 stencil package (48-009) that includes decals and instructions for the Su-33. It includes 3 pages of stencils for airframes, pylons and weapons. Hope that you like the drawings and find them helpful on your builds. If you don't have the kit yet, grab one at this price while they last (prices will likely be going up a lot in the near future...).
  2. Zactoman

    1/32 AIM-120 AMRAAM

    Now available! https://zactomodels.com/ First, a big thanks to Jim Rotramel for helping with references! Two versions are available, the early AIM-120A/B versions (shown in CATM configuration) and the newer clipped wing AIM-120C. Both versions include separate exhaust sections and nosecones to convert your missiles to CATM versions (Captive Air Training Missile). The main body as supplied has the live version of the nosecone molded-in and just the exhaust cone as a separate part. The CATM versions do require cutting and replacing the front and rear sections. The CATM type nosecone is occasionally seen on live missiles so check your references. Note the left wing AIM-120C in this pic has the CATM type nose while the right AIM-120A/B is the standard live nose: https://www.airfighters.com/photo/99576/M/USA-Air-Force/General-Dynamics-F-16C-Fighting-Falcon/89-2029/ and here's a second F-16 with 2 AIM-120Cs, one with live nose and one with CATM type: https://www.airfighters.com/photo/99131/M/USA-Air-Force/General-Dynamics-F-16C-Fighting-Falcon/88-0413/ I still don't know the explanation for that so if any of you know please chime in.
  3. Zactoman

    1/32 AIM-120 AMRAAM

    I'm currently a little behind on orders so there may be a few days delay. Some inconsiderate customer ( ) ordered a bunch of Su-27 BIG COMBOS and Tomcat intakes... I'm doing my best to cast parts for newer orders while at the same time fulfilling the first order. Thanks for your patience and understanding.
  4. Zactoman

    1/48 Su-33 BLOWOUT SALE!!!

    I have a limited number of brand new kits that I am selling at a big discount for $50 $47 +S&H. https://zactomodels.com/ For those not familiar I helped design this kit for a company called Aviation Art in China. The tooling was then purchased and released by Kinetic Models. Kit development thread U.S. shipping cost will vary form $9.50 to $22.50 depending on your location. Please e-mail me your address for a quote: Zactoman@Zactomodels.com Because of shipping cost, most international customers won't be interested, but you can contact me if you would like a quote. These are new kits. They are from the most recent batch of molding so don't have the sink-mark problem present on early releases.
  5. Zactoman

    1/48 Su-33 BLOWOUT SALE!!!

    Invoice sent, payment received, package shipped. Thanks Eli!
  6. Zactoman

    Su-33 paint schemes

    Thanks for covering for me when I'm not around! Much appreciated! The new moldings do have some very slight depressions in areas but I'd consider them acceptable and equal to your average well molded kit. Considering the fidelity of the surface detail, I'd consider it better than your average well molded kit. The first sets of molding had some bad flaws. Here are a couple of examples: I've achieved legitimacy!!! Seriously, thank you BaconRayGun The improved instructions can be found here: http://www.kineticmodel.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_70&product_id=64 The new/improved versions of my paint schemes are the ones I uploaded to my website on the 15th, which I noted above. I do glance through the box to check for any obvious problems. I found one kit with a short-shot upper fuselage and the lower fuselage sprue completely missing, so it's a good thing that I do check. I wish I had time to do a "thorough" inspection of all of the parts, but generally just check that nothing appears to be missing without pulling everything out of the box. For those familiar with the kit, once you take it out, it's difficult to fit it all back in. While I'm in the box I also re-arrange the upper sprues a bit. If you've received a kit you may have noticed a slight bulge on the box top and in some cases the box-art has been slightly damaged in that spot. This is because, from the factory, the upper fuselage is right-side-up and sticks up above the edge of the box. Simply flipping that sprue and slightly re-arranging the other sprues takes the pressure off the parts and allows the box to close properly. So far, luckily, I haven't noticed any warpage caused by the original packaging. I've still got a bunch of these so order away and tell all your friends!
  7. Zactoman

    Revell MiG-29 nose - shout out to Zactoman

    Happy to hear it worked out well for you. True. In this case I made an exception since I am discontinuing my Revell correction set and the mold for the nosecone was still in good shape (I might even pop off a few more and offer them up). Hope you enjoy the rest of the build!
  8. Fix your title dude! It's not "Incredible". It's "EPIC"...
  9. Zactoman

    Su-33 paint schemes

    Drawings revised and uploaded (I didn't change the thumbnail pics). Unfortunately the newer files did have lots of changes, some significant, some of which I ended up doing twice and some that I missed. Revising these turned into quite a bit of work... Kind of embarrassing but consider that I started this project 5 years ago and just picked it back up a few days ago. Here are some of the changes to the updated pics: Adjusted camo and flag positioning on Bort 80. Small adjustments to camo on 86 right side near flag and gun port. Cleaned up some overspray on 68 right side. Adjusted camo on fwd fus in top view. Removed bare metal panel behind gun. Spine blade antenna - 80 and 68 have fiberglass colored antenna with white base. 86 has med blue antenna with dark metal (gray?) base. Wing leading edge dielectic nubs - 68 and 86 have gray dome. 80 has dome portion (removed?) flattened. 86 had tail ladder decal removed and tiger re-positioned. Yellow decal under left canopy was re-positioned on two airframes. Radiation circle added to all 3 radomes. There were a few other small details and most importantly I added the gray strip on the canard leading edges. So, if you've already downloaded them I'd delete and re-download if you're concerned about the small details. I hope to see some of these built soon!
  10. Zactoman

    Su-33 paint schemes

    I though I had included that so checked my files. I discovered that I had duplicate files in a different folder (but missed the canard detail). Unfortunately I used the older files so I'm not certain what changes, if any (none I hope!), were made. I'll compare the them later and if necessary update and re-post them. I might even include the canard edge
  11. Zactoman

    Su-33 paint schemes

    Thanks Mark! Here is the stripe I was referring to. It can differ on the right side as well. Good on you for catching it! Could those that you found without the bare metal panel have been prototypes? It seems to be bare on all production models I've seen.
  12. Zactoman

    1/350 AMT Klingon Bird of Prey

    Your build is looking great so far. Look forward to seeing more! This was one of my favorite kits to build. I want that Polar Lights D-7!
  13. Zactoman

    1/32 AIM-120 AMRAAM

    The fins are very thin and knife edged (just like the real deal). Don't make the mistake of leaving your assembled missiles sitting on their fins or the tips will eventually bend and warp (especially true on the pointy tipped fins of the A/B version)! Instead support your finished missiles with the fins elevated until you are ready to mount them to your model. Parts are designed to make removing the fins from the casting blocks an easy task. The rear fins require that you first clip the mounting post sprue. Then a light score with an X-acto and rock them back and forth. A quick clean-up of the mating surface with a fine file or sandpaper and you're ready to go. Mounting brackets will need to be adjusted to fit the pylons you are mounting them on. I'm surprised at how far off some of the kit provided pylons are. AFAIK there aren't any accurate ones out there yet. Packaging is designed to reduce the chance of fin warpage. If you do encounter warps, a quick dip in hot water or blast with a hairdryer will allow you to straighten them. Decals are not included but Two-Bobs decals offer a set in case the kit you are using these on does not provide decals. http://www.twobobs.net/contents/en-us/p319.html For those that missed it, during development I was posting some pics here with comparison pics to other offerings: I'd invite you to add pics of the other brands of AMRAAMs there as well. I'm most curious to see the new releases from Eduard and the missiles included in the new Revell F-18E kit.
  14. Zactoman

    1/32 Aim-120

    Now! https://zactomodels.com/
  15. Zactoman

    Zactomodels suggestion box

    Rather than have a new thread started for each new product suggestion, please add them here. No guarantees I'll get to them, but I'll keep them in mind for future projects. I won't be commenting on all of the suggestions, but I'll read them and keep them in mind. Please don't suggest the outrageous (i.e. 1/32 B-52). In order for me to stay in business I have to do projects that don't take forever to create and that won't cost a fortune to sell. While I'm starting this thread for you to suggest possible products, I also welcome other suggestions about my business and how I can improve it.
  16. Zactoman

    Zactomodels suggestion box

    It seems that there is already an option available: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/307941-academy-1144-b-1b-lancer-12620-new-mold-kit-release/&do=findComment&comment=2959475 I would be hesitant to take on this project assuming KA Models might release a set (http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/304273-ka-models-aftermarket-parts/&do=findComment&comment=2919065)
  17. Zactoman

    1/32 Aim-120

    I had to delay everything after I glued together the CATM version and discovered that I had misaligned the rear fin lock brackets on two opposing fins (just a few thousands, but in opposite directions) causing the fins to twist. Of course I discovered this after I had production molds and lots of parts cast. Pattern fixed, new molds poured and Iā€™m caught up on re-casting the parts. One of the drawbacks of old school modeling... So here is the A/B put together. Mine is the CATM version (this was before I fixed the twisted rear fins, though it only showed from certain angles). Lengths and diameters of the bodies are the same as previously noted on the C (note that I edited the previous post to correct the Academy diameter). Rear fin span should be .766" Academy is +.016" CE is -.074" Z is -.016" Front span should be .641" Academy is -.006" CE is -.017" Z is -.001 I'm still curious to see photos of the actual resin and the details not shown on the CADs such as the conduit. Can anybody point me to online pics or post some if you can? I'm working on the web page today so hopefully tomorrow (have to cut the lawn and do some other chores first!). EDIT: I keep forgetting to include this: šŸ›‘šŸ›‘šŸ›‘ Thanks so much to Jim Rotramel for helping me with references!!!
  18. Zactoman

    AMK 1/48 F-14!!!

    Here's a nice pic that shows the area:
  19. Zactoman

    AMK 1/48 F-14!!!

    The BDR panels below the forward slime light add character.
  20. Zactoman

    AMK 1/48 F-14!!!

    Thanks for posting those! Any chance you could get more shots showing the windscreen? Possibly from multiple angles? Particularly showing the frames on the front corners.
  21. Zactoman

    1/32 Aim-120

    Sorry about the delay. I wasn't happy with the front fins so re-made them (again...). Working on production molds and finishing the instructions. Has anybody seen the Eduard parts yet? So far I've only seen the CAD renders. They seem to show rather thick edged fins rather than knife edged. I'm curious to see what their conduit looks like as it doesn't show in the renders. I went ahead and put together the Academy (dark gray) and Cutting Edge (light gray) AIM-9C parts for comparison. I still need to measure for the AIM-9A/B. Length should be 4.494" Academy is -.064" CE is -.221" Z is +.012" Diameter should be .218" Academy is -.009" CE is = at rear but -.003" at front Z is -.002" Rear fin span should be .545" Academy is +.077" CE is +.006" Z is +.009" Front span should be .548" Academy is +.005" CE is -.006" Z is +.010" (pre-production parts) Academy isn't bad. About 1/16" too long. The rear fins are quite a bit over in span and length and the nosecone is a bit too pointy. The CE version was almost 1/4" short (missing from rear section). The fins are crude and misshapen. The nosecone profile is way off. The sets I bought are very poorly cast. Both have simplified conduits. Both, for some reason, chose to add an inner ring on the exhaust. Both have the rear fins located too far forward when they should be even with the rear.
  22. Zactoman

    AMK 1/48 F-14!!!

    Different pictures showing different shapes:
  23. Thanks Chuck. I'll definitely pick up some microbrushes and give them a try. Do you also use those for CA cleanup? Cleaning up CA slops is what I was suggesting the spears for, not applying the glue. They are nice in that you can put a drop of debonder on the end and scrub right up to the part. They hold the liquid so it doesn't spread out and soak under parts allowing you to do surface clean up without accidentally debonding the part. They are firm yet soft so you can actually press and polish the surface with them. They're kinda like precision q-tips with no fuzz.
  24. Zactoman

    AMK 1/48 F-14!!!

  25. Great work Chuck! And a very nice tutorial on using CA! I would add one common sense/experience thing that you didn't emphasize: Because filling, sanding and re-scribing is time sensitive, only work in small areas at a time. Don't get over-ambitious and apply glue to too many or too large an area or you may cause yourself problems. I'm going to try the Great Planes debonder. Thanks for the tip. I use CMK debonder and it also doesn't seem to hurt plastic. Because it doesn't hurt plastic I am able to do a sloppy job at gluing resin to plastic or visa-versa and then clean up the mess afterwards. Surgical spears (also called eye spears) work great for this. I use the cellulose/paper ones. I haven't tried the PVA foam ones and doubt they would be as effective for this. I got a bunch from my doctor years ago but they can be found online at medical supply places which don't seem to sell to the general public. There are some listed on eBay but they are the foam type and extremely expensive. If anybody knows a good (reasonable price) source for the cellulose type please let us know.
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