Napalmakita

I've used them exclusively for a couple years now...about 8 builds, and I think they are great. Make sure you really mix them well.,.rattle the mixing balls in the bottles for a couple minutes. Spray slowly and build up the coats gradually, they aren't made to cover in one coat. I usually break the model up into sections..lightly do the sections of a wing, then do the other wing, turn it over and do the other sides. Sometimes I'll just focus on one panel at a time. Breaking it up into sections gives just enough time for each one to dry as you put a coat on the other. A few rotations of the

Great job👍

😂 That's good...that's dam good.

I've used it and find it useful during and after builds. Works well..delicate enough to not break anything off but has some weight to it as well..nicely balanced. The issue, as usual, is staying on top of the PM(preventive maintenance). The best way to keep dust under control is not to let it build up for days. I brush my models down every time I'm at the bench, even if I'm not painting and keep parts under kitchen cling wrap between build sessions. So far, so good

Maybe he ran out of fuel...

To get that result you have to break up the overall black by weathering inside the panel lines. For a starting point on the top of the bird, where most wear and tear occurs, take the base black and add some white, grey, rubber n tires, even tan or brown. Take it slow and use thin mixes to build up the effect on the panels. This should give a nice contrast with the darkened panel lines. For the clear coat, I would spot coat it with gloss, satin and even a little flat. One, smooth, uniform clear coat will crush the effect. Lastly, tamiya weathering pigments could really make the highligh

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Not the sure the number or letter they categorize them by...but the ones that contain 'soot' and 'oil stain' are what you want.

Sorry..check fire.

I like the ammo by Mig line for its simplicity and lack of fumes but it can be delicate, especially if you do a lot of post clear coat weathering. Recently I've gone back to the basic Testors laquer flat thinned with Tamiya yellow cap thinner and have gotten good results.

2-3 light dust coats with several minutes in between each followed by heavier, full coverage coats works for me. Take time between coats and you should be fine

I asked one of my buds who flew them..he said they are basically a visual indicator of the flap position. If you see the stripe they're up kinda deal

I have a couple close buds that flew Harriers...I forwarded the link from this thread. One flies Vipers out of Luke now and the other is flying for Fed Ex. so they bounce around but I should hear back soon. Sounds like a great project.

I haven't had any such issues...other then my fumbling mitts on occasion

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Just drop a chocolate chip size drop onto a metallic surface, like foil or a tin paint cup, and you can dip and place your parts from there. 👍

I've used the gorilla glue gel on 3 or 4 of my last planes. It will hold the piece exactly where you put it long enough to make Minor adjustments before drying. It's thick enough and very tacky, so issues with parts tipping over and falling off aren't a problem.

I use gorilla glue gel...it's thicker and leaves time to manuever the parts around after placing them. I make a small drop onto something metallic, like foil or a paint mixing cup, then use tweezers to dip the part carefully into the glue then put it in place.

Little late but I use mig acrylics: blue gray/olive drab/tan mix...i purposely leave it less then evenly blended as material in real life tends to be patchy and uneven.

Ammo of Mig all day