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Napalmakita

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Everything posted by Napalmakita

  1. The weathering on these hornets is looking more and more like Tomcats did as they got long in the tooth
  2. Who knows? ..a physical characteristic or embarrassing moment .. Could be a good hot tub story attached to this one๐Ÿ˜
  3. Who knows? Call signs are personal and can come from any number of sources...a physical characteristic or embarrassing moment included.. Could be a good hot tub story attached to this one๐Ÿ˜
  4. Look great. Nice work on the seperate nose cone...thats a real hop in the fool trying to paint n detail those๐Ÿ‘
  5. I've seen the orange type your referring to...I would think standard yellow with a drop of red would get you there. There are some that are the straight safety yellow too.
  6. Like you said... gloss after decals then mask off the bottom n flat coat that top
  7. I do fine with just spraying a gloss or satin white. You might want to look at the household latex method. Tape the intake at one end, pour in some plain, household white latex paint . roll the intake around until the surface is coated then remove the tape. Allow the excess to roll out and you should be all set. I've done this before with good results but it's been a while so I'm sure someone else will chime in if I missed something.
  8. Tango Dave..I was having trouble getting the visual in my head, those pics def help. I'll send pics your way when it's all buttoned up๐Ÿ‘
  9. Always liked the Prowler and couldn't wait to build this one. Good build...fitting has been smooth and I'm not an expert but the detail seems sharp. Then there's the instructions...I'm less than thrilled. I've figured my way through so far and I'm at the wing assembly on page 4. I'm doing a Marine bird..Q2 using Flying Leathernecks sheet. So, standard grey jet. I want to drop the flaps and I'm seeing, or think I'm seeing two issues. 1: the instructions show j26 sitting on top of j24 (I think), if I'm looking at it correctly then the channels in the flap will be covered up which doesn't m
  10. For the weathering bit, you might like oil pens/paints. Just grab a few...grey, white, black, dust... randomly dot colors all over the surface then blend and lighten with thinners. For me sanding very lightly over the flat finish with a high grit sanding sponge gives a realistic faded look and blends all the shades together. Fairly easy, hard to screw up and takes the weathering to another level.
  11. I have a similar artist kit..you might need to grab the metallic ones individually tho
  12. PRISMACOLOR...i keep a nice metal sharpener near by also...keeping the tip sharp gives a more crisp result. Just lightly drag the sharpened tip on its side at first...like dry brushing...then you can go in and actually get heavier with the pencil if you want.
  13. Maybe just humidity? Not sure where you live but I know in the summer there are days where I can clearly see the paint/brush/compressor acting differently. If it's super hot n humid/raining I'll often just put off painting that day.
  14. Same process as mentioned above but I've used white n silver color pencils to pick out switches n raised details with nice results...in my opinion.
  15. Agree! I dig the prowler, fighting my way through the kinetic kit now...
  16. My philosophy is replicate what happens in real life. Sand it, if it goes too far, touch it up. Add some rust or chipping in and around the area...have fun with it. That will only add to the weathering effect and look more realistic to my eye.
  17. Marine machine has to be loaded out for CAS๐Ÿ‘, I like your style. I vote for napalm tanks, rocket pods n snakeyes.
  18. Very lightly sand away the area with high grit sanding sponges...1500, 2000.
  19. Mandela effect or glitch in the matrix
  20. That's a good idea. I watched a lot of videos and got some of their technique books when I started using their stuff, made the process fairly easy.
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