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About HistnScale

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    "Sometimes, the Dragon wins."
  • Birthday 04/30/1949

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    SW Michigan
  • Interests
    WW-II aviation in 1/48th scale. Research on WW-II colors and marking with an emphasis on the Luftwaffe. Resoration of old airplanes.<br /><br />Special interests in a 5'6" green eyed red head, four needy cats and seeing how long I can stretch the charge in my portable oxygen system.

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  1. Based on what you presented, I would opt for fabric elevators and a regular gun sight. Of course you can always go the other direction making the assumption that the aircraft was up graded sometime in it's career. Cheers, Dave.
  2. Check the metal elevators closely, preferably a photo of the aircraft. A long discussion on one of the other sites seemed to conclude that the metal elevators did not appear as a field mod until sometime in early 1945. Field modification for the dorsal fin did not include the metal elevators as part of the package. Agreed that there is a LOT of research out there, but you might want to do a little more digging. HTH, Dave.
  3. My guess would be that the primer is at fault. You might want to get a new bottle and maybe give the primer a little more cure time. HTH, Dave.
  4. The main instrument panels should be same. The difference would show up in the small, rectangular auxiliary panel that hangs down from the lower main panel. There should be some differences on the way the switches and selector are set up. Overall, unless you have a real expert looking at it, you really will not see a difference. HTH, Dave
  5. Overall it is a very nice kit. It has some areas of Airfix engineering which causes some of the assembly to get a bit fiddly. II takes a little longer to build than the Hasegawa kit but in the end it makes a very nice Hurricane. I've built two of them and have another one on the shelf. HTH, Dave.
  6. Add the Italians. Some very interesting markings and paint schemes.
  7. Looking at the sneak peek photos I think it is definitely a P-38. Just which scale and version?
  8. Thank you, Sir. If you search the model pix section on HyperScale for Suzy G, you will find the rest of the gallery.
  9. I was 20 and listened to the event on Armed Forces Radio while sitting on a Lima Site wishing I could have been on the moon instead of where I was. Fun memories. Cheers, Dave.
  10. Here is my version of Suzy G based on Dana Bell's findings. Cheers, Dave
  11. There was a discussion on HyperScale awhile back that indicated that Tamiya was getting ready to do a 1/48 scale P-38. Based on what they have done with their Tony and Bf 109G kit, a P-38 from them should be outstanding. Cheers, Dave.
  12. The link below will take you an an excellent analysis of the Mustangs in the above photos. The piece is done by Dana Bell and should put to rest a lot of the endless discussions about these airplanes. HTH, Dave. Archival Show and Tell #7 - Not Those Blue Mustangs Again by Dana Bell
  13. Using Robert Mikesh's "Japanese Aircraft Interiors 1940-1945" as a quick reference since the book has pretty much all of the Japanese military aircraft assembled in one place. The only aircraft shown with a shoulder strap is the "Rex" float plane. Everything else has just a lap belt on original installations. There are a number of photos which show U.S. style belts which were added during testing. Off hand, I really cannot remember seeing photos of Japanese aircraft with anything other than a lap belt. I did have an opportunity to go over an original Type 21 Zero airframe and that one definitely did not have any sort of mounting for a shoulder belt. Figure on being pretty safe using a lap belt only. HTH, Dave.
  14. Just speculating, Tamiya used the Seiran held by NASM for their research. If the aircraft had U.S. seat belts installed during the test/evaluation, Tamiya may have copied them in error. I will try to make time to dig into my records on the pre-restoration Seiran and see if it did indeed have U.S. belts installed. Cheers, Dave.
  15. HistnScale

    Metallic paint

    Welcome Nile, let me add to what Shadrik has already talked about. Definitely find a way to invest is some good paint brushes. If you have access to a art store browse around and look for softer brushes made of something like sable. You will probably want a couple of wider brushes to make painting larger areas easier and cut down on brush strokes. I have used Lowe-Cornell brushes for over fifty years (yeak, I'm one of those really old guy model builders) and have never had a problem with them. If you are carefull to care for the brushes properly, they should last you a number of years. As noted above, paint in several thin coats instead of trying for one time coverage. If you make it to a art store look for some acrylic retarder and flow enhancer. Golden products makes some that are good and not that expensive. Follow the directions for use and they should help with the brush marks going away. I have not used Revel paints so no comment on them. However, if you have a chance to pick up some Mr. Color metalic paints either at a hobby shop or online, they do brush paint very nicely. Mr. Color makes a self-leveling thinner for their paints which acts as a flow enhancer and helps with brush strokes. Again, go slowly and build your colors up using several thin coats. It takes time and patience but you can learn to produce really nice finishes without using an air brush. Not sure if you have explored other sites, but you might want to take a look at Britmodeller.com. There are a lot of very good modelers in England who brush paint and you can find some really good information on that site regarding brush techniques. Good luck and have fun. HTH, Dave.
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