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HistnScale

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About HistnScale

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    "Sometimes, the Dragon wins."
  • Birthday 04/30/1949

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    HistnScale
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    Male
  • Location
    SW Michigan
  • Interests
    WW-II aviation in 1/48th scale. Research on WW-II colors and marking with an emphasis on the Luftwaffe. Resoration of old airplanes.<br /><br />Special interests in a 5'6" green eyed red head, four needy cats and seeing how long I can stretch the charge in my portable oxygen system.

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  1. For thicker decals or especially Eduard decals, I go straight to solvaset. It's fairly hot but I have never had it damage a decal (inclusing thin ones) nor has it affected a clear coat or a metal finish. The guideline is do not put on a heavy wash of solvaset. A light coat usually does it. Footnote, on the new ICM decals (B-26) solvaset makes the decal lay down like a coat of paint. HTH, Dave
  2. Looks like a nice addition to that era. However, if the pricing on Hobby Search is correct, it may be a tad expensive. Cheers, Dave.
  3. I just finished using the set being asked about. As Dave note, the extra 4 pieces are the barrels and slide into the jackets. The larger end of the barrel part anchors against the jacket and provides the base for mounting. If you look closely, you should see that the end of the barrel is bored out a bit. Overall, it makes a nice effect. HTH, Dave.
  4. Regarding the unfinished floor in the radio compartment, I was experimenting with different wood grain decals and am not real happy with the results. I decided to leave it alone since not a lot of the area shows after the fuselage is closed up. I did change over to to shaved wood veneer in some other areas that turned out better. In doing research, some notes came up that a number of crews stripped out the rubber mats and fabric insulating material due to fire hazard. At any rate, the fuselage is now closed up and most of what is in the photos is gone forever. Cheers, Dave. PS: Follow the sequence in the instructions when closing the fuselage. Deviate at your own risk.
  5. Something in one of the sites is preventing my posting a direct link. If you can manage to get a link to post, by all means feel free. Otherwise, check hyperscale's theme pics section. The last time I looked, the B-17 post was very near the top. Cheers, Dave.
  6. The WIP thread is finally up on HyperScale. Look in the Theme Pics section. Cheers, Dave
  7. Aviaeology decals has some pretty extensive discussion on this aircraft on their instruction sheet. Six pages worth. Reference is made to an article Model Aircraft Monthly, July, 2009 covering the shark mouth colors. The conclusion is non-conclusive. Could be red, could be the camo color. The decal sheet gives decals for both versions, leaving it up to the modeler to decide. Personally, I would put in the red just cause it looks good and no one can prove right or wrong. As to the camo colors, they are the standard RAF day fighter scheme with yellow wing id markings. Note that the blue spinner and checked fuselage band are post war markings. 2nd TAF schemes for this time period would have the sky tail band painted over and a black spinner. HTH, Dave.
  8. Guys, as I mentioned above, I am still in the detail painting phase, and there is a lot of prep painting before assembling. I will try to start a thread on HyperScale around midweek. At that time, I will be sure to post a link. The build thread will be in the Theme Pics area on HS. Wing Warning. There has been a lot of discussion about the wing having too much diheadral out board of the engine nacelles or being warped. HKM molded a reinforcing framework on the inner surfaces of the wing panels along with a series of posts that interlock like locating pins. It appears, after assembling the wings, that these structures are too high in various places. After assembly, the upper wing surface has a series of high and low spots causing a ripple effect. When looking at the wing head on, the ripple in the surface gives an illusion that the wing is cranked. I would suggest some diligent sanding of the framing and removal of the locating posts before putting glue to the wing. I managed to work the assembled wings enough to snap the locating post and that went a long way towards fixing the problem. Test fit and adjust. HTH, Dave.
  9. Anyone know if I can link from photos posted on HyperScale? Build up date. The wings will go together with very little fit issue if you pay attention to the locating pins. Like the very old Monogram kits, some of the pins are a tad to long or slightly out of place. Identifying and removing them solves the wing fit. Cheers, Dave.
  10. Sorry, Niels, I do not have a third party hosting service to post from. Cheers, Dave.
  11. Three days into building and still doing detail painting, For a kit with not a lot of parts, there is a lot of detail work. Fit so far looks to be pretty good, the only potential problem might be the leading edge seam on the wings. The fit seems good enough that I am seriously considering natural metal for the finish. If planning to use the instrument decal, scrape off the molded dials on the instrument panel. The decal really does not fit the mold pattern very well. There is a fair amount of natural wood finish on the interior, a good chance to practice wood grain painting, or use of wood grain decals. Overall, I'm pretty happy with the kit. It should build into a pretty nice model. Also, consider liberating the bombs from a Monogram kit, they are a much better representation of 1000 pounders. Cheers, Dave.
  12. I found the Hasegawa photo-etched dive brakes to be pretty fiddly on assembly and installation. Once you get them together and on, they look good. Overall, while not as detailed as Accurate Miniatures, the Hasegawa is much simpler to build and does make up into a very nice rendition of a Dauntless. Definitely something to consider. HTH, Dave.
  13. The Academy and Italeri kits are both re-releases of the Accurate Miniatures SBD-5. There are some cowl changes from the -3 to the -5 which you would need to research Also plan of deleting all radar parts from the -5. The -5 kit will give you the twin .30 cal. gun mount needed for a Midway bird. Not a too hard conversion from this kit. You could also consider the Hasegawa SBD-3 depending on how picky you are bout the dive flaps being drilled out. There are after market dive flaps for the Hasegawa kit or you can tediously drill out the kit flaps if you want to open look. Just checked Ebay and there are several Accurate Miniatures -3s there as well as a slew of Hasegawa -3s. HTH, Dave.
  14. I use 1/2 pound test monofilament fishing line for antenna wires. For the fuselage entry, I drill a @80 hole then start to feed a piece of line into the hole. After getting the line started, I use a piece of fine wire to put a small drop of super glue on the line. The feed the line into the hole until the drop of super glue hits the hole and fills the hole with the line in it. After giving the super glue time to set, I then run the line to the main antenna line and tie it off there and then trip the excess flush to the knot. If the antenna needs insulators, I use a small drop of paint for colored insulators or a small drop of 5 minute epoxy for clear ones. If the line needs tightening, that can be done using smoke. I prefer using a piece of stick incense, makes the smoke more controllable and also makes the model desk smell nice. HTH, Dave.
  15. Based on what you presented, I would opt for fabric elevators and a regular gun sight. Of course you can always go the other direction making the assumption that the aircraft was up graded sometime in it's career. Cheers, Dave.
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