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About Lancer512

  • Rank
    Military Jet Noise Addict
  • Birthday 12/01/1973

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  • Interests
    Main modeling subjects:
    - F-16s
    - Modern US Airpower (post Vietnam)
    - German Air Force

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  1. LED Workbench Light - Color Temperature?

    I've got a windowless hobby room and use flourescent tubes. I would go as close as possible to 6400K, which is the same as daylight. No idea what CRI is though. It made a huge difference when I replaced the old 4000K tubes with 6400K tubes.
  2. AH-64D in 1:72 by Academy

    They are based at Illesheim, but will deploy from there on a rotational schedule to the east european baltic states for the next 9 months. Check out FF for further infos.
  3. AH-64D in 1:72 by Academy

    Looks good! Did you know that the 1st CAV ist currently on TDY in Germany?
  4. Received my package today. Thank you very much. Much appreciated!
  5. Hasegawa 1/72 F/A-18D VMFA(AW)-224

    If that's kit D9, I can scan and send you the missing instructions by email.
  6. McDD F-18C Hornet - Hasegawa 1/72

    In the end it turned out really good. The resin cockpit really makes a difference. Can't find anything wrong with the model. Can you explain what you did to have the flaps in the dropped position? What parts were cut off from the wing, and what had to be scratch built. I wanted to build that kit with dropped flaps, but I chickened out on the 2016 Strike/Attack Group Build and finished it with raised flaps instead.
  7. Pledge Klear Floor WAX

    Not to my knowledge. I know some british modelers who have imported it directly from the USA. I had mine brought over by a colleague, who was there on a business trip. Anyway... Make sure it says FINISH on the bottle.
  8. Best panel wash, non enamel based?

    Flory Model washes
  9. Excellent work! Glad I could help out.
  10. Have you tried to remove the decal film with a scalpel blade? Never had a problem with homemade decals, even in 1/144 scale.
  11. A very nice touch with the intake doors open. You don't see many models with "running engines".
  12. Why isn't my solder sticking?

    True, but when the RoHS compliant solder became available, many electronic companies were faced with the problem of the solder not sticking to the printed circuit boards and the components. But I think this has been solved by now. So I guess it is a temperature problem.
  13. This model was built for the "Modern Luftwaffe - 60th Anniversary" Group Build. I am posting it here, as there is no dedicated thread with completed pictures for this model yet. The kit was reissued by Revell in 2014 with new decals and was built OOB. I only added some detail on the inside of the burner cans and added two pilot figures from the Revell NATO Pilots set. The kit went together very nice, the only problem spot was the turtledeck, which had very soft detail and a very ugly seam line. This appears to be the case with all of the reissues of Revell's new-tool RF-4E kit. I also had to fill and resribe some of the panellines on the aft fuselage and vertival stabilizer, which represent the RF-4E, on which the Revell F-4F kits are based on. No filler was required otherwise. Contrary to most pictures of that jet, I left the radome in it's natural color, as this aircraft jet was still tasked for air defence tasks in that paint scheme. The golden paint would have compromised the radar. This is why I also added two live Sidewinders to the starboard wing. This was also the first F-4F to be delivered the the GAF in 1973 and the last one to be decomissioned from active service in 2013. The model was primed with gloss Humbrol 14 French Blue, and the metallic paint is nail polish. I've used Maybelline Color Show #661, Ocean Blue. I guess I've put about 5 coats nail polish onto the model, which was thinned 50/50 with acetone. I've used up two bottles of the nail polish. One dry, rough spots were polished out with 3200 grit Micromesh. The radome was sprayed with ModelMaster Radome Tan (which is still the best color for that shade). The bare metal areas were sprayed with Vallejo Metal Color and the decals were applied straight on top of the nail polish. The gloss coat is three coats of Future, which was applied to the with a flat brush. The Future was not applied to any bare metal areas. To get a satin texture on the nose, the Future was sanded off the radome with the new green polishing sticks. The canopy was painted with Revell Gold. Supposedly the decals in that kit were specifically matched to the Revell gold paint, but it is not a 100% match. Very early in the build, I've added some Evergreen styrene strips to the inside of the exhaust nozzles to give them more detail. That simple trick does work wonders! I also added two pilot figures, from which I had to cut off their legs and the left forearms to fit into the cockpit after assembly. The build thread can be found <HERE>. Enjoy the pictures!
  14. It's comig along nicely.