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About Lancer512

  • Rank
    Military Jet Noise Addict
  • Birthday 12/01/1973

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  • Interests
    Main modeling subjects:
    - F-16s
    - Modern US Airpower (post Vietnam)
    - German Air Force

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  1. Oh yes. I've made the mistake with Tamiya Extra Thin on windshelds more than once. I ended up sanding and polishing the complete inner surface of a 1/72 Mirage 2000 windshield and was able to save it. But the mojo took a big hit. Although it may save time, using Extra Thin on windshields is unforgiving. I am going to stick with PVA glue around the cockpit coamings.
  2. Very nice! I always like these small kits. They can turn out really great, which you just have proven.
  3. What would be this GB without a picture of the anniversary Eurofighter Typhon?
  4. Very nice!
  5. There is also a quick setting version of Tamiya Extra Thin available. It has a lime green cap and label.
  6. Leave it for two weeks after sanding it even, and then recheck. On one of my current builds, I've used Mr. Surfacer 500 to fill up two unused locating holes. The Mr. Surfacer did shrink while the primer was already on for a couple of weeks. I had a visipl dimples, so I had to redo the Mr. Surfacer while the rest of the model was ready for paint.
  7. If you are using gloss paint in step 1, you do not need step 2 before decaling. You can apply your decals directly onto the gloss paint.
  8. Welcome aboard, Karlheinz. The Revell Piper is a very nice kit. I didn't have any real problems when I built that kit on commision.
  9. Just a couple of pictures of the latest German Air Force anniversary scheme. Last year was the 60th anniversary of the German Air Force, and this year is the 60th anniversary of the LTG 61 (Air Transport Wing 61). The C-160D had the official rollout last monday, and made it's first public appearance away from it's home base just three days later on thursday at our local flying clubs's airshow. Edit: The color is RAL 9006 Weissaluminium. This is the same color as on the bottom of the Norm 72 F-104 Starfighters and F-4 Phantoms.
  10. I've tested the blue metallic nail polish with the Leveling Thinner on an blank plasctic card, but I wasn't convinced. I will give it another try. The surface was more likely uneven than rough. Probably it was still too thick. Just for a test, I sanded the paint with 3600 grit micro mesh, followed by a thick layer of Future (poured over it and let it run off). The finish looks spectacular, but I had to sand it smooth before the Furure went on. Notice the small metal flakes as opposed to automotive metallic car paint. Unfortunately, I couldn't caputere the shine of the surface on camera. The camera didn't like the uniform surface.
  11. Good to know that it also works for the Revell acrylics.
  12. Yes, I am very happy how it turned out. I've been getting good results with this laquer based thinner with gloss acrylic paints, but this was the first time I've used the Mr. Color Thinner with enamels. In regard to enamels, I have only been able to achieve that level of shine with Xtracolor in the past. Originally, I intended to use the proprietary solvent of the blue metallic nail polish, which is ethyl acetate. That's the same stuff that is in the quick setting Tamiya Extra Thin. But now I am thinking about using the Levelling Thinner for thinning it. I'll have to play around with it while paint on the model is curing.
  13. I primed the model and the major parts with a very thinned down gloss enamel blue. I've used Humbrol 14 and Mr. Color Leveling Thinner for this model, which resulted in a very shiny surface. This will be the base color for the metallic paint. I've also decided to paint the canopy by hand, as trying to make some masks proved to be more difficult than I thought it would have been. Now the model has to sit for a week until the paint is fully cured. Not going to touch it! No way!
  14. "Do you have anything agaisnt the Army?" "Yes, Napalm"
  15. Wow! Nice job, Hajo. You're really tricked me with the last picture into thinking it was a real jet for one ot two seconds...