Lancer512

That was my main concern, but you have taken care of that.

For which kit will the decals be made for?

Probably because the forum does not recognize your album as an image. Try to post it as a link instead. Edit: Works fine as a link with my flickr album

Is that a 30 mm bullet on the sideboard?

Disregard

Apparently Airfix used a FG.2 (F-4M) as a referece, and the panel lines are therfore inaccurate for a FG.1. But this is just the same as with the RoG F-4F, which as a RF-4E fuselage and horizontal stab. Have my kit ordered, but it hasn't arrived yet to confirm that.

Haven't heard of that Spaz Stix brand, but a black base always goes under the metallic paint. The black base should be super smooth. This can be either done by polishing the plastic, or if you have trouble with getting a smooth paint finish, by polishing the black paint. If you gloss coat ANY type of metallic paint, it will loose it's luster and look more like a metallic automotive paint. The gloss coat also helps to blend in and seal the decals, but that is the same as with other paint finishes. If you don't gloss coat it, the metallic paint may wear off when handling the model

My current project hasn't changed since Janurary, 1st. Major loss of mojo in general. Must be the weather.

Using my own webspace.

Looking good. Just a tip on this kit: Before you join the two fuselage halves, make sure you check if there is any light shining into the exhaust from below. When I built this kit, I scratchbuilt a shroud around the interior exhaust duct. Maybe you've alreay done it. I can't tell from the picture.

The kit would be the Academy tooling. Revell always annouces the "new" kits in a press conference. Hopefully they provide better wheels. Initially, I was afraid they reboxed their old OV-10B kit as an A model.

If you are using water based acrylics, primer is definately needed. Otherwise the paint will be too fragile. The primer will also reveal flaws in the surface, such as sanding scartches or imperfections. They can be rectified and checked again before you put on the paint coat.

They're called GBU-48 in the video. Fisrt drop of the blue GBUs was GPS guided, while the drop of the four bombs together was laser guided.

I've got a windowless hobby room and use flourescent tubes. I would go as close as possible to 6400K, which is the same as daylight. No idea what CRI is though. It made a huge difference when I replaced the old 4000K tubes with 6400K tubes.

They are based at Illesheim, but will deploy from there on a rotational schedule to the east european baltic states for the next 9 months. Check out FF for further infos.