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About Lancer512

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    Military Jet Noise Addict
  • Birthday 12/01/1973

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    Main modeling subjects:
    - F-16s
    - Modern US Airpower (post Vietnam)
    - German Air Force

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  1. After a good 16 hours of drying time, I wet sanded the complete model with 3200 grit Micromesh. I am quite happy that I could get of the rough spots in the paint. Everything else will be taken care by the clear coat. The model is shown after it had been rinsed and ried. When it is wet, the paint is much more vibrant. I have never seen a plastic aircraft model with such a spectaluar metallic finish. I guess I'm on the right track. The nailpolish I've choosen is the Color Show series from Mabelline New York, 661 Ocean Blue. On the bottle I bought later, it has the addition 60 seconds below the brand name. Maybe that was the problem with the rough spots and the paint drying too fast, but I am not an expert on nailpolishes.
  2. Thanks Kingoalie! Just finished the second coat of paint. Until now, I've used up one and a half bottles of paint. For the second coat, I used Acetone to thin it in a 50/50 ratio and just 8 PSI pressure with a .02 needle and sprayed much closer to the model. This gave me better results.
  3. DIfficult to tell from the sprues, it should be in a slightly slanted line. Check Step 56 of the instructions. There are 2 almost vertical panellines aft of the radome, and the second one just in front of the windshield is the same angle as the radome. Not sure how the kit part matches up with that line once it is assembled.
  4. 1/72 Hobbycraft Sabre Mk.6

    Disregard. I was mixing up Hobbycraft with Hobbyboss.
  5. Painted the first coat of the metallic blue nailpolish. The metal flakes tend not to lie flat on the surface, rather they raise themselves. This results in a very rough initial finish. The roughness can be removed by simply rubbing your fingers accross it. For the second coat, I will try a different solvent, to see if there is any change in the finish. The fuel tank came out much better, as I was spraying closer to the surface (about 1 to 2").
  6. I guess that is Norm 76. Anyway, nice choice
  7. Wow! Nice subject! HaHen Daclas are printed on one large piece of carrier film. So you'll have to cut out each decal with a scalpel knife. Paul Budzik did a good video in which he shows how he handles decals. Other than that, they can be used just like normal decals, althoug I would try a scrap piece of decal first to see how well it performs.
  8. 1/72 Hobbycraft Sabre Mk.6

    Looks very nice! That is also a very colorful scheme you've choosen.
  9. 1/48 F-20A Freedom Model Kit

    Works fine for me for the last 3 hours. Have you tried reloading the forum page? Edit: I should not have clicked on the browser's refresh button after I typed the last sentence. Now they are gone here, too.
  10. Dave, what version of Firefox are you using? I had to upgrade from my old version to Firefox 50, because some pages just stopped working with that old version of the broweser. Just an idea. I am on ARC for over 10 years, and have never used that button. I am always using the browser's navigation bar to go back. BTW: I just tested it: It works fine for me.
  11. 1/48 F-20A Freedom Model Kit

    Thanks. I can see them now. Nice start!
  12. 1/48 F-20A Freedom Model Kit

    Dude, the pictures do not show up. I can only see the filenames.
  13. 1/48 Revell Tornado IDS to ECR: Lego tiger

    Sure. Compare this with pages 112 and 113 in the Fox Two book. On the kit parts, there is a visible bulge starting just below the heat exchanger intake. This should blend in smoothly towards the leading edge and front of the dorsal fin.
  14. 1/48 Revell Tornado IDS to ECR: Lego tiger

    Nice job with the resin parts. This thread is becoming a great source of information. I really like your way of showing the problems and how you've solved them.. Have you been able to check how the upper fueselage deck fits? Also, what are you going to do to with the fin base (around the heat exchanger)? The kit's part has an awkward shape, that does not look close to the real thing. I am thinking about using parts of the HobbyBoss or Italeri kits as the base to cast a new resin part fior that.
  15. Nice job. This looks like a massive decalling session.