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BaconRaygun

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About BaconRaygun

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    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)

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  • Location
    Long Island, NY
  • Interests
    Modern Jets, Helicopters (all of them), Flying Boats, aircraft from "The Golden Age," X Planes and other Experimental aircraft, Secret Luftwaffe aircraft of WWII, Armor and last but not least Scale RC helis and airplanes.

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  1. Well, since you mentioned it, I was hit with the Chernobyl cloud when I was a kid, so It's quite possible that I am in fact a mutant, hahah! I'm 35, I started off having forums and more YouTube videos that I can watch in a lifetime... so yeh, I definitely started out with an advantage, on top of all of those translatable skills I mentioned before. Ok, here is some more info so you guys dont keep beating yourselves up. I've been painting RC cars with rattle cans since 1998. Painting guitars with cans since 2003. I've used large commercial spray painting machines for paining buildings, and I've used an automotive spray gun a handful of times. I've also always been a bit on the artistic side (drafting and pencil drawing, and music). When I got the airbrush and tried it out, it was all like common sense to me, because of all of that other painting experience. I had to read about the basics, but once I had it in my hand, I figured it out quickly. I still had plenty of things to learn... I had lots of issues with seeing the paint hit the model, something I never experienced with any of the aforementioned disciplines. Also still learning how to deal with concave edges and things like that... things that I would not have ever experienced painting things with a rattlecan or big paint gun. Dry brushing is a completely new thing for me, and I've been slowly learning. If you look closely, you will see that I have dry brushed very little on this model. Exacto knife skills and general build skills come from 22 years of building RC cars, airplanes and helicopters. Working on surface mount electronic components is like building a detailed cockpit... in 1:144... with a soldering iron.... so working on 1:48 models was easier, since I don't even need to use a microscope, and if I make a mistake I don't immediate destroy the project (like I would if I slipped swapping memory in an iPhone). Putty work? I used to repair boat hulls, and I work with composites as a hobby, and building these models is so very similar, just on a smaller scale. See what I mean? It's like a professional helicopter pilot of 20 years going to get his private pilot certificate in a fixed with airplane. Gonna be a lot easier for him than if he was a professional truck driver and has never flown a thing in his life. Thanks a lot guys, you're making me blush, hahaha!
  2. Thanks for the kind words, Underdog, but a master-modeler I am not. I'm pretty much a noob... this is my 3rd model since getting back into this as an adult. I'm just taking my time and trying to push into new territory with each build. With this one, I've had many challenges, and subsequently have done a whole lot of learning. If it looks like I've been doing this for a while, it's probably because I learned some of the core skills needed for modelling outside of this hobby. I've been tinkering with soldering PCBs for quite some time, and I also tie flies for fly fishing, so I'm quite used to working on small delicate things. I've also worked in composite assembly and have re-finished quite a few guitars and pieces of furniture, so I already had plenty of experience with adhesives and sanding & finishing. I'm lucky that I knew all of these things before getting into this hobby as it really mellowed out the learning curve quite a bit. Maybe some day I'll be able to own the rank of "Master-Modeler," but only after I earn it.
  3. Finally in the home stretch. Since my last update I had to start over on the vertical stabilizers because I had some paint lift after masking. Thankfully, that didn't take much time and I was able to move on to the landing gear. I tried to do as much of the plumbing and wiring as I could figure out from the photos I had. Some of it is a bit off scale, but I had to work with what I had and I think it came out good enough. I also went ahead and finally installed the ejection seat and the rest of the cockpit bits. The seat went in quite tightly, so I didn't even bother gluing it in. The gear and cockpit bubble are going in at the end, after decals and weathering and just before I mount the pitot tubes, static wicks and gear doors. Now, on to mounting the canards and stabs.
  4. Oh yeh, I guess you're right. I couldn't find a photo that good of the nose, but I was able to make out those rivets from the photos I had, so I assumed it was there, and left it. Cant really see it anyway because I used it as the demarcation line for the camo.
  5. All of those are panel lines, except for the seam on the tail boom. There are mold seams in the front... that raised line that's immediately above the hole for the in-flight refueling receptacle (and the one just like it on the other side) are mold marks. There are also similar marks on the engine nacelles. The seam at the nose is a panel line. Only the little "rim" that the nose cone attaches to doesn't have the line, but the rest of the seam is there (though not very prominent) on the real thing. For the gaps at the boom seams, you can get rid of them if you just clean up the seam a bit better. Up front, you have to fill... I had to also. Only other place you need to fill is where the wings meat the fuselage ahead of the slats. They couldn't really hide the seam in that spot... so you have to fill it if you are building the model with the slats deployed. I guess right behind the wings needed a little filling too, but that is mostly hidden. The rest of the seams were "hidden" in recessed panel lines. Some of them could be filled and re-scribed to make them more shallow, but I didn't bother. I did not fill the sink marks like Haneto did, but I did sand a bit to make the little ripple less noticeable. The ones on my model were not as dramatic so I didn't go crazy... would have been a lot more painful to have to redo the lost detail than it would be to live with that little "ripple".
  6. Microfiber rags.... for automotive care. They are made of spun nylon, so they are non-reactive. The cotton fibers don't really bother me all too much. Just wipe them away with some microfiber!
  7. Ahh there's a good detail that I can add. Those pieces of the gear that attach to the engine nacelle... I see they are grey on one side and blue on the other. Was that part replaced or something?
  8. Never mind, I see what you're talking about. Don't worry about that stuff... that's gonna be painted once I mount the horizontal stabilizers. The crisp line is there because I needed to use the tape to get the edge right on the bottom side... and I just never bothered adding more tape to cover the side because I knew I was going to paint it anyway. I thought you were referring to the first photo.
  9. That's only around what I'm assuming is the APU exhaust outlet. The other side is camo. It's bare metal for sure, I checked like 20 times. Zactomans guide also shows it in bare metal.
  10. I'm gonna call the airbrushing portion of the engines finished. I left the blue and purple a bit on the vibrant side because I'm anticipating these colors to tone down once I clear cote, just like what I observed when painting the exhaust on the GWH Su-35 last winter. If they don't, then I can always tone them down later. I gave up on taking pictures of every step because..... there are too many. I think you all get the idea anyway. I started off by feathering Jet Exhaust around edges and dark spots. Some masking was involved, mostly for demarcation. For the heat stained portion of the cans, I masked everything except the heat stained portions. I then added pitting and staining with the use of stencils made from open-cell foam and cigarette paper. I then removed some of the masking tape and continued the pitting stencils all around the engines. Next I added a heavily thinned layer of 50/50 Magnesium and Duraluminum all over, this toned down the pitting and added depth. Then came heavily thinned MRP Burnt Metal Blue and Violet, and a custom mix of pale burnt metal and a few other colors to the heat stained portion of the cans. After I was happy with everything, I added more pitting, this time with Tamiya Red Brown and Flat Brown sprayed through some open cell foam. The last layer was 10 parts Mr. Leveling Thinner, 4 parts Megnesium and 2 parts Duraluminum. This acted to again tone down the pitting and add depth to the heat staining. Oh ya, and I removed all of the masking tape.... ...and now for some bad photos. Underside.
  11. Here's the bottom side. Started out the same as the top side by drawing the "lines" with a .05mm black marker and then laying down a bit of MRP AIG II, followed by some MRP Burnt Metal Violet. One difference here is that the checkerboard pattern is there to act as a guide for shading and will be completely filled in. Then came the Burnt Metal Blue. Then the Mr. Color Clear Green ...then I screwed up a bit and went too light with the duraluminum and ended up having to add more magnesium to get back on track. Unfortunately, fixing this screw up made the lines on the lower hatch more or less disappear. I haven't decided if I'm going to bother re-doing them yet. Next I added some Pale Burnt Metal, a mix of PBM and Stainless Steel (for the two lighter bands), traced the checkerboard with Burnt Iron, added more Burnt Metal Violet and Blue to bring them back out, and finished with a very light coating of magnesium. Sorry, no pictures of those steps. Here's where I'm at with the underside at this point. One thing you cant really see in most of these pictures is how those underlying layers come out when you view the model from different angles. Maybe this will come through better when I take photos with a real camera after the model is finished.
  12. These things are weird... that's the best I can say, lol. When comparing photographs, the colors are all over the spectrum, and what stands out from one angle may be all but invisible from another. I think the actual temperature of the panel also has some effect on what we see, which explains the differences that are seen when comparing photos of the Su-33 in the air vs. parked. All of that before we even consider dirt, soot, rain marks, oil stains and oxidation. You can go crazy trying to paint Flanker exhausts. I'm just trying to make it as accurate as I can with the tools that I have. I wanted to do the lines because its one of those fine details that people who really like Flankers will notice. That, and I personally think the engine makes this plane. It's weird seeing a nicely built and painted flanker where the engines were more of an afterthought. I remember seeing a large model at a museum, and the engines were just painted two colors.... and it just looked all wrong to me. That's why I'm spending so much time on the engines. Yesterday I started on the bottom side (I'll post pictures later). Much deeper hues down there... lots of purples and blues along with grey, amber, rust red and all of that stuff. I will be doing all of the weathering and staining too.... that comes later.
  13. Thank you, Brett! I put in a solid 3.5 hours last night, so I've got another update for you guys. I was not satisfied with the way the top panel was coming out, so I decided to take a step back, re-do a few things and maybe experiment a little bit. I re-drew the lines, since adding all of these additional layers would make them virtually invisible. Next, the experiment. I used a primary color... that's right, MRP AIG II blue-green... like what I used in the cockpit. Every image I can find of those panels appears to have a seafoam quality to it, so I figured I would start with a really light layer, and work off of that. This is after the AIG II and some additional MRP burnt metal blue and Alclad II pale burnt metal. And again after a little Mr. Color clear green. I skipped a few photos because I had to double my focus for the next segment. This is where I feathered in Duraluminum, Magnesium, Pale Burnt Metal, a blend of Mag and PBM, and Jet Exhaust. Masking tape and cigarette paper were used for masking. I also filled in a few of the exhaust feathers with jet exhaust, but that was really just to dump excess paint as I am not focusing on the cans at the moment. ...it's getting there. Still need to do the bottom side and then finish up the cans and then do all of the stenciled stains and whatnot.
  14. Thank you Nazar. Got a little bit more done last night. I added the "lines" on the engines with .05mm black marker and a lot of masking tape. I did not take much care to make these particularly neat because they are not really that "perfect" on the real thing, and they will be very faint once all of the other painting is done. The few lines that are more prominent will be re-drawn once more before the next round of paint. This is after I added lines, and painted MRP burnt metal blue and MrColor clear green. After the burnt metal colors, I again added magnesium and duraluminum to the upper panels, followed by a bit of pale burnt metal. This should give you a good idea of how faint the lines will appear. Note that this all looks quite grainy in photos because of my lighting. Once I get it all done, I will take photos in natural light.
  15. For sure. I had a lot of fun painting the engines on the Su-35, and I fully intend on one-upping myself with this one. I think painting burnt metal is one of my most favorite aspects of this hobby... it's certainly one of the more artistic aspects. I've got a long way to go before these are where I want them. This session basically established a base layer that I am going to build on. Next up are the lines and heat staining, followed by some blending, followed by more heat staining and then on to the tarnish, grime and soot.... but it's all gonna have to wait till next week, because I'm getting into my car and driving to VT in, ehh, 10 minutes.
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