Jump to content
ARC Discussion Forums

BaconRaygun

Members
  • Content Count

    195
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About BaconRaygun

  • Rank
    Rivet Counter

Profile Information

  • Location
    Long Island, NY
  • Interests
    Modern Jets, Helicopters (all of them), Flying Boats, aircraft from "The Golden Age," X Planes and other Experimental aircraft, Secret Luftwaffe aircraft of WWII, Armor and last but not least Scale RC helis and airplanes.

Recent Profile Visitors

477 profile views
  1. I need to sharpen the edges in a few small spots, but aside from that, the topside camo is finished. Next up are the canards and stabilizers, and then on to the engines. I guess I should fix that nose cone at some point too...
  2. The midwest is a big place. Where in the midwest? I would volunteer if you were near the NY metro area... but I'm not going to ship anything.
  3. Yes, the Kinetic kit that I'm 2/3 of the way through at the moment. I thought that was obvious, lol. I'll be getting this kit too, whenever it comes out.
  4. Half of the PE that comes with the kit is not mentioned anywhere. The ejection-handle is left out of the instructions for the seat (thankfully, you get two seats in the kit). The instructions appear to tell you to install the ejection-seatback upside-down (or this could just be me, because the images were vague enough that it could just be the image). The instructions for mounting the rudder-pedals are vague and missing a critical bit of information. The instructions for assembling the flaps are beyond vague, and if followed, will result in a really poor representation... unless you build it flaps up. The under-nacelle pylons are flat out missing and not mentioned anywhere. I haven't gotten to the landing gear, doors, spoiler, or weapons yet, but I did read the instructions fully about 5 times. I'm fully expecting to find more errors and omissions once I get to all of those bits. The canopy fit is really funny... because the forward part fits absolutely perfectly, and the rear portion... doesn't really fit, and will only look good open.
  5. Updated version is still full of mistakes and omissions... but better than what came in the box.
  6. Not sure. Are you viewing from a mobile phone? -Igor
  7. Got some work done on the top side this weekend. First time using this method for masking. I usually freehand the camo, but this subject has a hard edge scheme that's not really free-handable.
  8. It's photoshopped. Here's the original.
  9. Finally started paint. The plan is to get the main underside color finished, and then move on to painting (internal) and mounting the exhaust cans and canopy. Then, onto the top side. Started with the hatches and nosecone. Layer one of the mottling. I filled in the hatches early because I like the contrast it will achieve in the end. This is after three "official" layers of paint. My typical process is as follows: 1- Start with painting all hatches that are not main fuselage colors. In this case, the white hatches. 2- Start the mottling. 3- Adjust the mottling to fill in light spots, or even out the pattern. (I consider this part of the first coat). 4- Apply a light and even coat (2nd coat). 5- Fill in hatches that are main colors. Fill to about 85% of where I want them in the end. 6- Highlight each panel and even out the shadows (3rd coat). 7- Add lowlights with modified main color and start other details like flap tracks and the areas beneath slats and flaps (4th coat). 8- Post shading, if needed. I black base, so usually not needed... but this is where I add it in case I added too much color earlier on. 9- Final, 5th coat. 10- Touch ups come after I have finished painting everything and have attached any major parts (horizontal stabilizers, flaps, canards, open hatches, etc...).
  10. Cant speak for others... but I sure as hell do. I black base, and I have two different primers. Mr.Surfacer 1500, and AlcladII gloss black primer. The only other "black" that I have is model masters water based black that I use for brush painting details. I'll leave the bare Mr.Surfacer if the needed color is a more washed out black... and if I need it really black (like anti flash paint or ejection seats), I'll use the Alclad II gloss black.
  11. Perhaps you're right. I'm just repeating what the guys at a large, train specific hobby shop that's down the block from my job said....and what the one other person that I know who is into model railroads said. One of the guys at that shop did mention certain rolling stock selling out really quickly, but he said it was because most of the people into it are older or retired and have plenty of money and time to burn. This same guy said attendance at shows was healthy but he feels like a baby when he goes because everybody is his fathers age... and he is in his late 40s or early 50s. I dont know... he seemed like a reliable source to me. I've always thought model railroads were cool as hell, but I never got into it because of the amount of space required. I really hope you are right, because it would be a shame to see that hobby disappear. Good point about the Gundham models, I didnt even think of those. Another thing that comes to mind is miniature wargaming. Those seem to be more popular than ever these days.
  12. Finally got some work done on this thing. Flaps, slats, and PE bits mounted, hairline seams filled, and panel lines re-scribed. There are a few small scratches that I missed that need fixing, then one last primer touch up and a final wet-sanding.... then on to paint. The two bare spots are the scratches mentioned above. Canopy has been fitted, just need to deepen some of the rivets and give it a final polish. PE went on pretty easily but the horseshoes were a bit of a challenge. Flaps went on with little problems... but that tail cone, that thing was a pain. It was a good .5mm too fat. I had to actually take it down with a file, then a good hour of sanding before it was flush and smooth. @Mstor You mentioned your flaps keep falling off. Is it the outer portion that I have not mounted yet? Those seem like they will be quite delicate, so I'm leaving them off till the very end, just before I do the static wicks, pitot tubes and all of the other tiny bits of PE.
  13. Yes, I'm sure the interest level with kids is far lower than it once was... but that makes perfect sense. Video games and RC models are far more tempting with a much more modest learning curve. It makes sense that as those things became better and more accessible, popularity of other hobbies that would be attractive to the same demographic wanes. There's also digital 3D modeling... the kids like that stuff, and that's a good thing, because those skills translate 1:1 to CGI and video game development, which is big money. If you think this hobby is suffering, then don't go look at the poor model train guys. That hobby is straight up dying. The detail is exactly what brought me back. I was throwing models together when I was in my teens and right as I was starting to build instead of "throw together" I lost interest. A few years back after I stumbled upon some newer models through some of my RC friends, I started thinking about getting back into it. Then, my aunt randomly sent me a model (like she used to when I was a kid) and after seeing the detail and being totally blown away, I decided it was time. Seems like a lot of people get into this hobby in their late twenties to late thirties, so maybe it really doesn't matter that kids are not particularly interested.
  14. Good point. Another thing to consider (that seemed to elude me when I made my previous post) is how long you plan on leaving the tape on. This is a lesson I learned the hard way on my last build. If you plan on leaving the tape on for more than a few hours and its more than just a simple square of tape (like a hatch), then its a good idea to let it sit for a couple of days. Especially if its a complex masking job that will have lots of seams. The issue is not paint lifting but rather the tape itself creating artifacts at the seams and creases. My last model was Eduard's 1:48 MiG-21SM. The build requires you to paint the shock cone before joining the fuse halves and building the rest of the airplane because it would be impossible to mask after the fact. I primed with MrFinishing Surfacer 1500, let cure for a week while I worked on other things, then painted with MRP-32 (Russian radome green), land then masked the next day. The tape came off a few weeks later. No lifting... but every seam and crease in the tape was now embossed in the paint. It was a major pain to fix at that stage of the build.
×
×
  • Create New...