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BaconRaygun

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About BaconRaygun

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  • Location
    Long Island, NY
  • Interests
    Modern Jets, Helicopters (all of them), Flying Boats, aircraft from "The Golden Age," X Planes and other Experimental aircraft, Secret Luftwaffe aircraft of WWII, Armor and last but not least Scale RC helis and airplanes.

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  1. Awesome build! I especially like the scheme you chose because I see these birds all the time. I frequent VT throughout the year (especially during ski season) and I absolutely love it when the green mountain boys run low along the long trail.
  2. Thank you sir. My favorite part about the mottling isn't even how it comes out... its doing the painting. There is something strangely satisfying about it.
  3. Looking good man. I really like what you did with that rear gear bay.
  4. More progress. Started on the camouflage scheme last night. Before anybody asks, top-side paints are Mr. Color (per callouts in manual), bottom paint is MRP Sukhoi light blue (yes, I realize this is not a Sukhoi. No, I don't care, its close enough for me). Camo is being done freehand. I don't know if the real thing had hard-edge camo or not, as I was not able to find a single reference shot of this scheme... so, I've made the executive decision to just go with a soft-edge camo look. Light blue on the underside is finished. 4 layers total. First layer of green and stone down. Second layer of stone down. Second layer of green will be used to refine and sharpen the edges. Onward!
  5. Thanks for the kind words, Steve. Definitely a fun kit. I've thoroughly enjoyed it. I may even attempt to build a mig-21 analog using this kit sometime in the future... if I'm feeling brave. Speaking of the master pitot tube (and static wicks); those are the only aftermarket parts that i bought for this kit. I wanted to build this kit totally out of the box, but I just could not skip that beautiful pitot tube. It's so prominent on this aircraft that I just couldn't hold back.
  6. I forgot I even started this thread... Whoops. I ran into a small issue while attaching the wings. Nothing a little sanding and putty couldn't fix, but certainly makes my noob-ness stand out. There was quite a bit of sanding required at the forward portion of the joint, and as a result, I lost some detail. I did my best to re-scribe the lost detail, and I think that came out just OK. Doesn't bother me, though, as it's on the bottom, and after paint and weathering, it will be barely noticeable. The air frame is complete. All that's left is paint, landing gear, weapons, and details like pitot tubes, static wicks, antennas and other tiny details. I started painting the bottom yesterday. In the below photos, you will see the progression through the first and second layer of paint. One more layer and some touch-up, and on to the topside.
  7. I've got one... I know its not your scale, but, how about some 1/48 Mig-21 analog 1 and 2 wings? I really want to build one, but I dont know where to even start with scratch-building the wings. Would be cool if there were some resin wings that I can just graft onto the Eduard model... cough, cough, hint, hint.
  8. Nylon is another (cheaper) option. It is non-reactive to most chemicals, including laquer thinner. The pipettes we commonly use in this hobby to transfer paint are made of nylon.
  9. I dont know if it will do what you want or not... but Acytel (delrin) sheets are not cost prohibitive. A 24" x 24" x 1/32" sheet is $15.97 from McMaster-Carr. MisumiUSA probably has them too. Here is a link to all of the plastic sheets available from McMaster. There are a lot of different materials... some expensive, some cheap. Not all Delrin is stupid expensive. This doesn't need to be structural or anything like that, so you don't need to get the most expensive version. https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-plastic-sheets
  10. I have the trap/regulator that was linked a few posts up, and live on Long Island, in NY, so our humidity level is pretty close to what you see up in PA. As a regulator, it works. I have nothing to compare it to, so I cant say how well... but, it does work. As a water trap, it works, but it can be better. I do not have an additional inline trap on my airbrush hose, and I have noticed that on occasion, the brush will spit a little water. However, I have not experienced any bad tendencies due to this, or at least I cant tell if I have or have not. Before each session, I do blow quite a bit of air through the brush before I load it up and begin painting. I'm wondering if that has some sort of effect. Could it be that the condensation forms in the hose between sessions, and is simply blown out before I begin, not re-forming until the hose is idle for a few days?
  11. LMAO, I hear a career in the elevator industry also has its ups and downs.
  12. Ahh, I see. Does it leave a residue? The description seems to suggest it does, but, I have no clue... @Jonathan S Will do my friend... will do.
  13. Yep, long time RC helicopter and airplane guy here. Guilty, lol. Cant speak for the OSMO, but it looks pretty good. I like that it has a color screen built in. Not really that necessary with the use of bluetooth and smart phones... but certainly useful. I've had a GoPro for years and have not had any issues. I mostly use if for filming me and my buddies skiing and snowboarding in the woods, but I have been known to strap it to my RC helicopter here and there. This summer I plan on using it to film some of my more remote kayak fishing adventures.
  14. Which product? Endust canned air does nothing for static... I'm an IT guy, so I've had my fair share of experience with canned air over the past 15 years or so. @ElectroSoldier I cant do the humidity thing. I. Hate. Humidity. I think the brushes are probably more along the lines of something that makes sense for me... as I don't need to wait for the model to air dry after washing with water (which, of course, works, but isn't the answer here). My biggest issue with static is while I'm in the process of painting... primarily, removing stubborn dust particles that tend to just re-locate to some other part of the model. I've also noticed some interesting things happening when I'm spraying a model that's holding a charge, especially when spraying metallic paints. I cant think of an explanation better than powder coating. When the model is charged, and I blip the trigger on my airbrush, I get basically a powder coating of dry paint all over the model. Not really a big deal as it comes right off, but it certainly is a great way to demonstrate how "powder coating" works.
  15. I'm not being closed minded, Jonathan S, I'm simply taking basic physics and chemistry into account. Unless it's pure, distilled water... then it is already "ionized," simply because there are dissolved minerals (ions) within that water already. Tap water = ionized water. So, technically, I've been washing my sprues in ionized water this whole time. I can even tell you, with some degree of certainty, which ions are present in the tap water here on Long Island. Sodium, magnesium, calcium, copper, tin, silver, and iron... and probably many others, but calcium and magnesium being the dominant two. What is the mechanism under which an "ionized water wash" would prevent static buildup? I cant think of one. Anti-static chemical treatments work by creating a thin, conductive film on the surface of whatever it being treated. That's one of the methods the ZEROSTAT device uses to achieve its goal. That liquid creates a slightly conductive film, aiding in the dissipation of static electricity. Eventually, it wears off... and you re-apply. I suppose the brushes and other stuff it comes with are probably meant for application, dust removal, and removal of(but not prevention of) a static charge. Lastly, the Hi-Fi audio field is not immune to snake oil... in fact, it's quite prevalent in the Hi-Fi audio scene... so I would personally attempt to independently verify any claims made on a vinyl/Hi-Fi/audiophile forum. Monstar Cable's entire business model revolves around selling people magic-silver-bullet-cure items based on anecdotal testimonials with zero actual science. The cables are constructed well, though, (I do own a bunch) so I'll give them that. I'll gladly open my mind to these "ionized water" claims, if somebody also provides good, credible, scientific, peer-reviewed sources to back up the claims. Until then, the whole idea is relegated to the woo section of my mind. And I apologize if this comes off as being a bit abrasive. My intentions are not to offend... it's just that throughout my life, I've been bombarded with so much unsubstantiated nonsense that I just cant take it anymore. If I keep my mount (err, fingers) shut, then I am effectively enabling the snake oil salesmen, be it directly or indirectly. So... generally, I don't go around trying to debunk things such as this, however, when they are presented to me as a solution, I do not hesitate to point out the woo to the best of my abilities. ... but I do appreciate the input, Jonathan.
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