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About BaconRaygun

  • Rank
    Canopy Polisher

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  • Location
    Long Island, NY
  • Interests
    Modern Jets, Helicopters (all of them), Flying Boats, aircraft from "The Golden Age," X Planes and other Experimental aircraft, Secret Luftwaffe aircraft of WWII, Armor and last but not least Scale RC helis and airplanes.

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  1. BaconRaygun

    Tesla, model 3

    Thats why I specifically said plug-in hybrids. The current trend is one towards plug-in hybrids and EVs. Every year, more and more car makers are adding them to their model lineup. Toyota, Honda, VW, GM, Nissan, BMW, Porsche, Ford, and Hyundai all produce at least one plug-in hybrid that is sold in the USA. There are probably more, but those are the ones I know off hand.
  2. BaconRaygun

    Tesla, model 3

    Hydrogen cells are not batteries... they dont recharge, they create electricity through an electrochemical reaction between hydrogen, oxygen and an oxidizer. The process requires the vehicle to carry a load of pressurized hydrogen gas. The logistics of creating a network of hydrogen fuel stations is far more complex than installing superchargers. ... Tesla owners are not having any major issues in cold climates. The issues they are having are being addressed, and are relatively minor.
  3. BaconRaygun

    Tesla, model 3

    1. You are describing every plug-in hybrid on the market. FYI this concept has been known and in use for over 100 years. The first hybrid car, the Lohner-Porsche Electromobile was an electric car with a gasoline powered generator used as a range extender. It was built between 1900 and 1906. 2. The loss is minimal, maybe around 20% at its extreme. I have taken a Model S on several trips from Long Island to central VT, into -20c temperatures, and it was fine. Windchill only applies to humans. The battery (or any object) cant cool below ambient... unless it is soaking wet. 4. You're pretty close there. With Tesla's ever growing supercharger network, the trips you describe are already possible. You can already take a tesla on a 14 hour trip and only need to stop twice to re-charge. The second part is highly dependent on governments. We dont need to depend so heavily on fossil fuels... but if we didnt, lots of powerful wealthy folks would lose money, and we cant have that.
  4. Oh wow, that was one hell of a joint. Good job. Looking forward to the rest of this build... i've long had a soft spot for the F-5 and T-38. I see one on my table sometime in the near future.
  5. BaconRaygun

    Airbrushing Exhaust Stains?

    Not sure this will help much but what works for me with an iwata HP-CS airbrush: -Clean brush well, including the nozzle (not just needle and cup and whatnot). I guess this goes without saying, but figured I'll mention it. -12 psi -Remove airbrush tip (or use the crowned tip) -Thin paint till it flows well right at the threshold... even if it says DO NOT THIN on the bottle. At this point I will only adjust my compressor + - 1 psi if needed. -Get in super close and apply the paint in small bursts. I mean tiny. This is where your muscle memory really comes in handy. -"Clear" the brush often onto my painting mat (ehh, a piece of cardboard). -Layers are your friend, lots and lots of layers. You can always re-add some color if it gets washed out, and you can also dull a color down if you think you sprayed a bit too much. I used DIY stencils for pitting and any of the fine patterns that cant be made with just an airbrush. I used stretched open-cell foam (shaved with a fresh razor), paper and thin clear plastic in which I poked holes and cut gashes. I have not tried pastels or powdered pigments yet. I was happy with my results with just using the airbrush, so I didnt bother. Full disclosure, I have no idea what I'm doing... total noob. Anyway, you get the point. The prowler exhaust heatshield have that cold, almost blueish color fading back into that burnt, sooty, warm and dark metal. I would start with a metallic color that looks like the cooler portions, then tint that with a thin layer of whatever color you come up with, and then fade back towards the rear with bands of your warmer rusty colors and finally finish it off with a bit of good old jet exhaust (or whatever smokey colors you prefer). Sort of like the top portion if these flanker exhausts... but with that cool, metallic blueish color up front, and much less pitting and texture (the gradients seem more smooth from the photos I've seen of the prowler). [/img] Post a picture of what you've got so far. Maybe you'll get a bit of direction from some of the more experienced people here.
  6. BaconRaygun

    Issue with foiling

    I have no real input to answer your question, but I do have a question. Why does it matter? Does the adhesive need to partly cure before you apply it to the model? Personally, I would think that thinning it may actually make it worse. Maybe try applying it, waiting a few minutes, and then re-brushing to spread it out again once it has had a chance to dry a little? Sorry if this is worthless advice. I've never used this adhesive, or applied foil, but the process seems similar to applying upholstery to a firm medium (like an automotive dashboard)... so maybe a similar technique may work.
  7. BaconRaygun

    Alclad II white primer

    Don't know if this really applies, but, on my Su-35 build, all of the black is just Alclad II gloss black primer. That includes the ejection seat, hoses, tires, wires, avionics screens, HUD frame and the rest of the forward cockpit (below the windscreen) and the anti-glare paint on the nose and canopy. Only thing I did in addition was gloss and semi-matte where needed. The tires were 3 layers, alclad II primer followed by MRP acrylic tire paint, followed again by light coats of alclad II gloss black primer. Looks convincing enough for me so I sealed it and left it alone. I don't know squat, so not sure if the two (black and white) are the same aside from the color... but it worked out well for me. I say if it looks good, then its good. I'm new to this hobby, but one thing I said to myself from the beginning is that I'm not going to go completely insane with trying to color match every conceivable part. Personally, I don't think that's even possible using nothing more than photographs, but that's a whole different discussion. What is more important to me, at least for minor colors (like misc parts, hoses, LG, antennas, fins, whatever) is that it looks realistic and believable. So, IMO, if that Alclad II white primer looks good, then its good.
  8. BaconRaygun

    Polishing over raised rivets

    I agree with you for most models, but on the Electra, the rivets really stand out. I've seen the restored full-scale replica of Earhart's Electra at the Museum of Flight in Seattle and the rivets are like smack-you-in-the-face obvious, even from the far end of that room (which is a few hundred feet). I think it's the fact that they are raised, there are A LOT of them, and the whole aircraft is bright polished aluminum. I'm still on the fens though. The rivets I got from Archer are nice, but I think they are too large. I do want to model the rivets, but I'm OK with them not being raised. Not quite sure how I'm going to pull that off. Maybe paint them on? Maybe decals? Any insight is appreciated.
  9. BaconRaygun

    Tesla, model 3

    My stepfather had a Model S P90D for a few years and just upgraded to the Model X. I have spent time driving both. I can answer a few questions if needed. We live in the North East (long island) and my folks do regularly take the Tesla up to VT on ski trips. They have not experienced any performance issues with the batteries. There is a dip in range in cold weather, but not too dramatic. @Whiskey The model 3 currently starts at $42K and that figure is shrinking. There is a $35K version that is in the pipeline and will allegedly be available once production of the model 3 reaches some set of milestones. Considering the average American consumer spends $34K on a car, that's right in line with a car for the every-man, especially when you consider the savings on fuel and maintenance. @Slartybarfast Chevy Bolt starts at about $36K. We do have a few small electric runabout type cars available in the states. Don't recall the makes and models off the top of my head, but, we've had them for quite some time. One is sort of like a glorified golf cart... not approved for highway use, but you can drive it anywhere else. Autopilot works well. It is not antonopilot, it is autopilot. Just like in an airplane, it is meant to supplement the pilot (or driver) not replace them. If used as intended, it is perfectly safe. If you lay back and watch a movie and snooze out... yeh, you may end up under a semi truck. There is a warning that occupies the entire infotainment screen when you engage the feature. You have to sign off on it before you can access the feature... You cant miss it (the screen is very large, something like a 24" monitor in portrait mode) and it does also define the word "autopilot."
  10. BaconRaygun

    Polishing over raised rivets

    Well that is the plan, but since the rivets come on carrier film like any other decal, and the finish will be bare metal, I'm afraid the film may show. Everything I'm reading about applying these rivets instructs to seal and prime over them before final paint... to avoid having the carrier film show.
  11. BaconRaygun

    Polishing over raised rivets

    As the title suggests, how do you gurus deal with this? I just started working on the Williams bros Model 10 electra and to make it look decent I'm gonna have to re-do all of the rivets and panel lines. Issue is, its a bare metal finish, and for that, the surface needs to be immaculate. Plan is to sand, fill, sand some more and polish the whole thing. Then, scribe the panel lines, and then add resin decal type rivets. After that step, I'm gonna have to once again prime the whole thing... and then wetsand/polish once more. So... how do I take care of the last step without destroying the rivets?
  12. BaconRaygun

    1/48 Eduard MIG-21 PFM - Polish Air Force

    Looks great! I really want to build one of these in the future. Always had a soft spot for all aircraft that utilize inlet cones... especially Russian aircraft.
  13. BaconRaygun

    Ultra-sonic cleaner to clean out sanding dust.

    You guys are gonna think I'm insane.... but, I've been just using my airbrush and a trimmed (flat) artists brush. I just crank the pressure to like 25-35 psi, and use the brush to help. Works like a charm. Seems to also work for when you accidentally spray a piece of dust into your paint. But only when the dust or hair is only partly adhered to the surface.
  14. BaconRaygun

    Aircraft noises last night

    You sure it wasn't an A-10 unloading its GAU-8 on some poor dummy tank? The sound that gun makes is what nightmares are made of. The sound they play in movies, of this gun... sounds nothing like it. Not even a little bit. It sounds more like a buzzy- growl than the typical sound of gunfire.
  15. BaconRaygun

    How's this for a package arrival?

    Want to know why? Go apply for a UPS loader job... they will give you a tour in the application process (you dont ever have to come back). I am not exaggerating when I say the following. They encourage their workers to load the truck by the deadline... NO MATTER WHAT. They dont care if you have to run or dive over boxes. They dont care if you have to walk over piles of boxes, or throw and/or kick boxes. The #1 task is getting that truck loaded. They do not look at labels, unless it was something extra thay you paid for at the counter. That "fragile" label is ignored. We literally witnessed workers stepping on boxes, kicking and throwing boxes. Boxes falling 80+ ft from overhead conveyors onto the floor and hitting all sorts of jagged machinery on the way down. It's like a prison yard... except its a UPS loading facility. I presume all of the other carriers share this model.