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neu

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Posts posted by neu

  1. trevortex88

    Thanks, but I'd like to build a small carrier diorama, so I need a USN decal sheet.

    Brian P

    It's a really great appreciation from somebody who has experience in this scale! This is my first try in this scale, but I'm really enjoying it. The scale down is one of my ideas too, but I don't have any F/A-18C decal sheets, and I couldn't find any in the area. Unfortunatelly I can't use my credit card to order it online :worship:

    Btw can I see you're small planes somewhere online?

    Just for fun: a size comparsion :blink: I've finished the cockpit. Unfortunatelly almost all the details are invisible in the Hornet, becouse I don't have macro mode...tomorrow I'll ask my friend if he has, and take some closeups! The other Cockpit is 1/32 A-10A.

    myhornet2.jpg

    Greetings neu

  2. Unfortunatelly I don't have Macro mode on my camera, so I just cannot post a photo of the seat. I've spend a half day putting all the belts on :blink: It's looking good in this scale...I'll try to get a better camera to show it for you. There are some decal imitations too :lol:

    Also forgot to mention the opened refueling probe :worship:

    Greetings, neu

  3. Hi there :worship:

    Here's my small bug in progress. I've added several scratchbuilt parts to it. It's going to be a small diorama with a tractor and crews. Maybe I'll tie it down if I can find a not out of scale solution for it. Becouse of this, wings are folded, slats & flaps are dropped. I'll make FOD covers too. Canopy is giong to be opened with detailed hydraulic rod and details. I'll try to scratchbuild the acces ladders aswell.

    myhornet.jpg

    The only problem is that I simly can't find a good decal sheet for it. I'd buy larger scale decals to scane it for reference and make my own one, but I cannot use my credit card now.

    Greetings, neu

    ps: if you have spare 1/144 weapons, external fuel tanks for the Hornet, crews tractors, or the Dragon Blast off! (or whatever) kit with the hornet, please let me know! Also interested to spare F/A-18C decals too.

  4. Hi there!

    A week ago I've started a thread about sanding the 1/48 Hasegawa A-7 corsairs intake trunk what is a really problematic section. At least if you don't want to use FOD cover or Seamless sucker wich I think should be a fine choice.

    Now we're going to use a hitec device developed by the UOCT (University of Coimplicated Things) and NASA using the latest highend space technology approved by the CIA, US Army, Navy, Air Force, Marine Corps, Mosad, and all other organizations that people thinks are mystic and hitec :stooges:

    What we need is:

    - Tac (Blu Tac, UHU Tac, etc...)

    - Sticks/Toothpicks (2 small pieces for relatively big surfaces, and 1 for the very small ones)

    - Sandpapers

    - Adhesive Tape

    ...almost forgot...we need at least Corsair too :stupid: I have three, and all three has different fitting quality what is really interesting as they are all Hasegawa...

    Firstly I put a big amount of Gunze's Surfacer 500 in to the problematic area. It's important as it has not a gap only, it has difference in the level of plastic parts too! We need to remove some plastic to level it right. This is why we just can't use the otherwise good solition can be found in the Tool 'n' Tips section Here

    Combine the device as per the image below. Concerning the adhesive tape the stronger is better to keep the sticks tight. The Tac has a wonderful feature: it can be deformed to any shape, and can be used at almost all surfaces. It's 100% that you accidently wont sand a section flat like you should with harder stuff. I used it for the larger areas of the intake trunk, and I used the same at the corners, where the intake connects to the nose section. To do so, the only job to do is to break the sandpaper a bit along a line to be cornered. It's important that the tac should be still there between the sandpaper's cornered section to keep the shape!

    Start sanding, and enjoy the results. It worked fine for me. For very small parts you can superglue some sandpaper to a toothpick and use it. It's important that you should change the sandpeper often, as it's fastly "clogging" from the hardened Surfacer!

    I hope it helps!

    Happy modeling, neu

  5. We can get both UHU and BLu Tac here in Hungary for around 1 euro. But we don't have Future or equivalent stuff...so I've got mine from the UK.

    Greetings, neu

  6. Gareth

    It sound good. I think I'll check if it's working with Gunze's white filler, or automotive filler. The only problem that the fit of these parts are very bad, so not only gap is existing, but there are level difference in plastic, so I have to level them together...so I must send here...

    I solved this problem. I used small stick and sandpaper fastened attached with Uhu Tac. It's working well, and can deform in the needed amount to the exact shape.

    Thank you, :thumbsup:

    Greetings, neu

  7. I didn't know they let alcoholics clean windows! :worship:

    Windex is a concoction of amonia, alcohol and some other ingredients, and is useful for a whole range of things (like removing Future when you don't want it etc etc) . . .It may not be called "Windex" outside the US however.

    :lol:

    Old Blind Dog

    This is why I'm asking it....in Hungary it's pretty sure that it's different....trying to fins similar products.

    Greetings, neu

  8. Hi there...

    I've starter 3 1/48 A-7E Corsairs last week. Now the fuselage halves went together (it's interesting, that altough all 3 are hase kits, both has different fitting quality...). The intake trunk fit is far not perfect, and need lot of work to smooth it. I've started it, and I have some idea how to speed it up, but I'm interested if enyone has experience with it. I saw several beutiful corsairs here, so please share you're tricks! (pleas don't recommend FOD guard, or seamless suckers :crying:

    Greetings, neu

  9. Hi there!

    I'd like to know how to prepare the model to achive the best results with model master metalizers. I thoght that I'll prime the surface with MR Surfacer, or a somple flat grey coat, but I rather ask it before I do something wrong...

    This is the first time I'm trying with Metalizer at a whole plane (F-104C), so any addition ifnos and advices are welcomed!

    Greetings, neu

  10. The question is simple. I'm interested about the pros and cons of enamels vs acrylics. I'm basically usind MM enamels, but now I'm thinking on acrylics. I've just finished spraying an acryl color (I haven't found it in enamel). I noticed that it dries very fast, and maybe it's not that unhealthly. So what do you think? If it dries this fast can I drybrush with it? Also post if you have Brand preference and reasons.

    Thank you!

    Greetings, neu

  11. Hi there

    I know that there are options to flatten future floor wax and use it as flat coat. The only solution I heard is Tamiya flat base, but I can't find it here...is there any other solution?

    Greetings, neu

    ps: I had not too much success with MM clear coats, this is why I want to try future.

  12. Toothbrush is just perfect...I have couple of diferent ones for this purpose :) Also you can smooth the edges to perfection with tamiyas extra thin cement....it's working well. I rescribed an 1/48 Prowler wing few weeks ago, and after applying this technic it's looking like an original one...

    Greetings, neu

  13. Hi

    The question is simple. How do you airbrush white without using 546532 layers? I'm thinking on Model Master enamels...any good technics? I've heard somebody makes a grey primer before it, somebody airbrush some flat white before applying gloss one, etc...

    Greetings, neu

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