Chorse6

Which nose? On the white nose version, the ac intake is white (with a black box), which kind of makes it look like a wave. AC intake is black on the black nose version. There is one pic with a skunk nose. In general they all look relatively straight.

I may be interested in the C-2, but don't have Paypal. In what part of Texas are you? If the DFW area, I could drive there and pay with cash.

Follow-up on the Arlington Hobbytown. It has a probably the best selection for plastic in the area (four long rows of various plastic), though, typical HT prices. They also have a good selection of tools, supplies and paints. Very little by way of aftermarket. Another place I found in Fort Worth is Mason's Hobby Lobby. It is a hole in the wall off Hwy 26 (Mason's Hobby Lobby, 6905 Boulevard 26, Fort Worth, TX, (817) 284-0264). If one would categorize it as a bar, it would be a dive. Lots of dust, dark. They have some kits and actually decent selection of paints. It was an experience. ‎

Stopped by Plano Hobbytown. It is at Park and the Dallas Tollway. It is on the SE corner inside the shopping center a row or two. Average plastic kits (Arlington is much better now); however, good supplies. Neat little shop regardless.

Yep. Sometimes it appears the bottles weren't filled. If I get this, I'll fill it with laquer thinner (flats) or mineral spirits (gloss) to thin it out. I'll stir thoroughly.

My two cents. It depends on if you want a chrome/polished AL finish. I use Alclad and when I spray those colors, I use MM Gloss Black enamel. The key is to get a flawless gloss black finish/smooth and let it cure a couple days. If you're using MM metalizers, really don't need it. I usually use a white or grey primer under those. I rub the primer down with a cloth to smooth it out some. - I mostly use enamel, but I think I've shot metalizer over acrylic without issue. - Sealing? It depends. I've taped over MM Metalizers to spray other colors without issue. I've also pulled up the paint

This may help you get towards it. Looks clear in this one. F-16.net 87-0222 Just saw your last message about close up. Disregard if you've seen.

I have a basic one. If I use or have a smaller diameter bit or needle I want to really secure, I take the covering off an small electrical wire, slide the pin/bit into it, and tighten done. No issues.

This help? http://www.cybermodeler.com/aircraft/f-8/images/ishmael_rf-8g_26.jpg

Sorry, but no. The Eagle Strike decals don't come with names on the siderails (not sure why, they definitely had them). Pics aren't of sufficient fidelity to make the names out. Only can tell they are yellow.

Unions are trying to convince creditors/others to merge with US Airways. AA leadership and others don't want it. Not definitive what will happen yet.

This thread has several versions of VF-202 F-4N. http://s362974870.onlinehome.us/forums/air/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1 Couple here: http://navy.togetherweserved.com/usn/servlet/tws.webapp.WebApp?filter=All&cmd=PublicGallery&type=EventExt&order=Sequence_desc&maxphoto=4&ID=86388&page=2 http://www.airliners.net/search/photo.search?aircraft_genericsearch=%3D%28%22mcdonnell+douglas+f-4+phantom+ii%22+OR+%22mcdonnell+f-4+phantom+ii%22%29&airlinesearch=&countrysearch=&specialsearch=&daterange=&keywords=NAS+Dalla

There was an article in FSM a long time ago. I may have it. PM me with your email and I'll scan and send.

I built that a couple years ago using the kit decals. I recall they were horrible. I used everything to try to get them to settle but no luck. I literally sanded them down, futured and touched them up. I think your idea of using the smaller ones and masking the rest may be a good tactic.

Looking at D&S, it appears that amber is on top. That would be my SWAG.

Yep, I did. I had to trim the inside as Netz mentioned, glue it down and sand, grind to fit. Don't think it was designed to be closed.

Danger I found with a heat gun is getting bubbles in the plastic if you heat it too much. I've tried holding it over steam or in boiling water, which seemed to work. Oven idea is interesting. Will have to try it. Thanks.

I think it is interesting the Pentagon IG is looking at the report instead of the service IG. That is unusual, though the USAF IG may have reviewed the final report before it was published.

Dave rocks! Great guy. We just did a deal as well.

I have built both, and there are a lot of positives and negatives with both. Both can build to nice kits. My two cents: Hasegawa is nicer of the two, but it takes a lot of work. It can be built with flaps down. It has more details for the intakes (though this is an issue with many; I didn't think it was bad). Much sanding is needed in the fit between the cockpit area and the main fuselage (as well other areas, but that was the worse to me). There is a gap between the fuselage and the wing when wings are folded. R/M kit is nice. Cockpit is decent. Intakes are horrible and best to use intake

Bump please.

My son got into the Skylanders thing as well. He got a lot prior to Christmas. Most stores are out down here as well. He got a lot online, which may be the best way. Amazon has some, but I'd pick and choose from the prices. Seems like some have gone up now. [i know way more about this than I should...or want!] <_<

I was in Larry's a couple weeks ago. Typical pricing for a LHS. They have some good Hase, Hobbyboss and other nice kits. I picked up the Ventura while I was there (why not). G&G folks are friendly. Not much in plastic, but a nice little shop for supplies, especially diorama. Also a neat area of town (near Rice University) M&M wasn't bad. Still keeping a decent supply of plastic. Had fun tooling around there.

Got an Tamiya F4D in a trade a while ago. As I started building, realized no windscreen. Thanks.

I think that C8 is "sandwiched" between the wings and "mounted" on the hooks. C8 and the wings should be "parallel" to each other rather than C8 perpindicualr to the wings as you have it.