M.F.Lunder

Hi everyone, The F-8 finished! Take it out to see some sun light! And some stupid AI... I also finished the BV246 Hagelkom, nice little kit itself Don't waste it! I will be off to new year vacation, so until next time... HAPPY NEW YEAR AND MODELING! Chris

Hi everyone, I want to try some new technices than the same old wash dry brush process. First the panels are outlined with black, to test the technic I select a panel and paint some dots with white, orcher and brown, normally oil paints are used, but as you can see this time I try to use Gunze panel liners, which dries faster and easier to wipe off if anything wrong comapring to oil paints. Then the dots are blended using a thinner moised brush. i repeat the this process until I am satisfied, it takes more time than I expected. Then the exha

It WILL be. I am taking my time, being alway hesitant to what detail or part to keep, what to delete, as my general concept is to keep as much as the original parts as possible. Now I am close to finish rescribing the panel lines on the wings, I just removed the molded radio on the fuselage, and test fitting the Tamiya tank behind the cockpit, tried to detail it up a bit.

Well I have to say I didn't notice the radome until you mentioned it, I will take a closer look when I gule the part. It will be a easy fix if it's what you said. As for the color I read the following post from Britmodeller some gentleman claims C/Bs actually have same color as M, but I do agree with you that they look different to the eye. Maybe the sea condition/corrosion change the color? Best Tamiya paint match for a Rafale M? - Aircraft Modern - Britmodeller.com For now I am ruling out (Gunze) 315 and 308, I think 306 is close enough but according to syhart addding 25% 307

Hi guys, I bought the Hoibbyboss Rafale C kit with PE set when it was first released, but lost the interest to build it after learning it's underscale. After the India-Pakistan conflict in May, Hobbyboss quickly released the J-10C and Rafale set. i happened to find someone selliing the decal sheet from the new set, hey why not use it on the kit I have, as a "shelf minus one" proect? So, even thoiugh I promised myself not to start a new kit unless one is finished, I want to make it while the topic is still "hot". Let's get started! This is the kit to build, y

Hello eveyone, There are different theory for the unit ID: yellow under cowling, white wing tip, both or neither, even Eduard's 72nd and 48th instruction have different suggestions. I chose yellow under cowling because I read a post from Britmodeller that states yellow quite sure, and, it's colorful on a plane! Then other small features were painted: over-painted ID band, exhaust panel, and other parts. Now the painting in completed. Next I will do is to give it a gloss paint and decal. See you next time, Chris

Hi guys, I took a look at the white 11 picture again before painting, and found some interesting features: 1, there is a white bar on the wing, coiuld be the over-painted white cross showing or photo quiality? 2, the exhaust stain seems to extend to the "11" and on the wings, 3, the antenna wire droops when the canopy is openning. Let's get some paint on. I painted the RLM76 in thress layers, first Gunze c117 out of bottle for the basic marbling, second a lighter shade to highlight inside of the panel and some details, third basic c117 again for touch up and ove

Hello everyone, Let's keep going. I took some time to find a suitable slide hood for the model. So now I can say: Hasegawa A8/Airfix A8/IBG D9 (considered to be accurate): too narrow too short. Tamiya D9: width and length OK, but front of the hood is about 0.5mm taller, and have a curve online that doesn't match the revell winshield. AZ and Italeri D9: too narrow and way too short. I couldn't test the Academy D9 flat hood, as I used it somewhere else I couldn't remember, but their blown hood doesn't fit. Well that tells something about each kit. A candidate is the eduard A8 h

Hi guys, Let's keep going. There was a big gap between the wing root and the fuselarge, I thought it was for the anhedral, but when I bent the wing upward, and compared to the front wiew of the instruction, hmm, probably not... Then I filled the gap with stretched sprue and sanded it smooth. After re-scribed some panel lines, I replaced the gun with copper tube. Most of the fuselarge is done now. I made a mistake by sanding off the lip of the belly pylon, so I replaced it with the part from Hasegawa, the bomb rack is from Eduard, the Revell

Hi guys, It's still rainy so I took the risk and painted the cockpit, and weathered it after waiting overnight. I also added the seatbelt which was from TPO. Then the fuselarge are closed and wings on. While waiting the glue to dry, I added the brake line to the landing gear... ...and small spriing, which, from a article I recently read from Hyperscale, is crucial to the gear, haha. All half an hour's fun work. Last, today's new arrival, Dearmmodel Ka-52, with 3D print gun and what's the word...rot

Hi guys, A hic-cup, the id band decal brittled when I applied the softer, maybe the Hase decal is just too old, To make things worse, some paint came off when I tried to remove the broken decal. Touch up is needed... As it's been raining lately, I will have to wait for a dry day to do the re-paint. Then, I found a Revell Fw-190F-8 in a pile of models, I didn't even remember why I bought the kit. But hey, why not another simple built? Kit parts had an Onsen and dried overnight, they are simpe, two sprues for a FW and small one for the bombs.

Just go for it! I mostly build 72nd kits, in last couple of years the makers released so many props, including my favrate Mastang and Dora, I bought half a dozen Arma Mustangs and IBG Doras each! I just order the new Eduard P-51D, one thing about the eduard kit is that the common sorue always comes with spare parts for other variants that can be used for other ktis, like I used the Nacht Jager parts from the A5 kit on the Hase A8: As for zero zen I would recommend Tamiya's kit, which has much better detail than the airfix kit I am building, just ignore the paint instrction an

Hi guys, Here is the update: The canopy is masked - this time I didn't do the tedious work of cutting mask tapes, I painted the masked area with water thinned mask fluid. Hope that works! The crowl, capony frame, anti glare area and the deck behind the seat was painted semi-gloss black, another Nakajima zero feature. I only preshaded the moving parts, I think the panel lines are wide enough to create its shade. I spayed the under side with white primer. In my previous build I found that in a certain light the J3SP color showing a green hue,

Hi guys, HAPPY NEW YEAR!! As my F-16 is not going to be finished sooin, I just weant to build something fast, just glue and paint something. So I pulled out a box I have for sometime, Hasegawa's super ace box, in which there is a zero fighter type 21 and type 52 each. In the box actually it's the airfix kit, I have built the type 21 to test the AK J3SP paint. This time, I am going to build type 21 with cherry blossom with the airfix kit. I pick this because the machine is a Nakajima built zero, so I can test my new purchase AK re

Hi guys, HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!! Hi Mercury, I am not sure. As much as I know, these aircrafts are delivered as As then updated to MLU. In that process, they keep the A tails, which are shorter and narrower than the later C's. I went through instructions of other Revell MLUs and the lateest 1/48 Kenetic kits (including the Ukrainian one), they are all using the smaller A tails. I think I am going to keep that. Hi habu2, yes you are right. I only found that after I bought the kit. I am not going to bought another revell kit just for a small par