TexasBlues

THANKS OBD!!! thats really nice coming from someone with your talents... i used the detail masters aluminum distributor kit... was tough to do cuz i have HUGE hands... but i think it cam out pretty well... if you want to see more, let me know... i am working on a daisy duke jeep that i am lifting and such.... i'll be happy to share pix TB

[What a cool idea. And I can buy some and say they are for my wife for a romantic evening! ] YUP... and they are SO freakin cheap!!! i figure a whole gag of 100 should last several kits...

hey all- just wanted to let you know that i have found an alternative to lead foil for seat belts.... the casing around a tea-light candle... its soft aluminum and cuts easily. i havent tried to paint it yet, but i have made a 1st attempt at building a harness for one of my car models... not only are they easy to work with, you can get a bag of 100 candles for like $2 (USD)... just wanted to share!

and one more...

JUST GO FOR IT!!! i was scared as all get out when i first shot enamels too... but follwed the friendly advice i found here at ARC and it came out pretty well... what do YOU think?? of course its not an airplane, and there was some wet sanding involved... and it took a while to do (several mist coats and time for it to dry)... but i think its was worth it... i used a Paasche VL double action

picked up a couple bottles of CA (pink and green) some testors cement in the bottle, and a 1:32 Trumpeter F4U

different kind of hobby shop allowed? i got a 2006 Fender Stratocatser...satin finish, midnight blue... and a 1977 hard case for it... color is different than this one... almost purple

welcome back to the dark side finger prints suck... and i agree with jjuwanna... but i will go into it further by saying this... try using a glue that comes with a brush in the bottle (im not sure what youre using, nor am i familiar with the tamy glue referenced above)... patience IS the key...... as for kits... i have built 1 hasegawa and 1 revell... both went together very well and i am working on a couple of cars right now... then accurate miniatures... long way to go before i tackle the academy 1:32 bugs i have... i want to make sure my skills are spot on before i do those jewels...

From the State of Georgia: My explosives and blasting license now i can blow stuff up withOUT getting into trouble!

didnt anyone tell them that CRACK KILLS!?

bump

when using wire thats NOT coated with insulation, is there something to do to prep it for paint? as in prepping it to give it some tooth for the paint to bite to so it doesnt flake off?? BTW geedubelyer... that strut looks great... somewhere i think theres a bird with only one leg! TB

Hey- I bought some square tubing the other day to simulate lift blocks on a jeep that i am building... once i got it home... i realized that a tubing cutter wouldnt work... is there another method OTHER than a hack saw, but less messy than a dremel?

:( to ALL those lost... no matter the date THANK YOU! for all that you have done...

EXCELLENT PRODUCT! in fact its all i use... theres a thread on it somewhere in here.... IMO... well worth the $$ here are some examples of the finish...

i agree..., the GB was most excellent... i won some decals for a jet that i dont have! the best parts were seeing all of the 'competition' and seeing my own work up on the www where ANYone in the whole world can see it... if they know where to look thanks so much! lets do it again soon!

i dont know about the card set... but i got the VL for about $100 USD... keep in mind that you will have to buy LOTS of propel for it unless you can come up with some other air source... look under the tools/tips section of this board (on the home page) for suggestions on alternative air sources. propel is WAY expensive... and for about $100 USD you can get a compressor at wal mart (from what i hear)... if you get a compressor, make sure it has a regulator to control the airflow.... the propel cans get cold and the pressure bleeds off... to keep the can warm, you can try setting it in room

hey all- what kind of clear coat should i use over a high gloss enamel paint? also, should i wait to put on the metal foil until AFTER the clear coat? or can i do it before the clear coat? thanks! TB

i've seen them, smelled them, tasted them (they leak alot) and been physically hurt by them... they are like the most wonderfully sexy and dangerous woman you have ever seen... i guess theyre kinda like Angelina Jolie (or YOUR personal favorite female) when shes all pi$$ed off and $ex sweaty all at the same time... hard to explain... they just 'are'... my most favorite aircraft in all the world

Flip- they are cake to use... and a little goes a long way.... i use Q-tips (aka 'cotton buds' in EU) and a soft paint brush or a short stiif one (where have i heard that one before?... oh yeah... i diovorced her)... aka a horse hoof stippler brush.... usually used for drybrushing... anyway... dip the brush into the powder and tap off excess back into the bag... if you use paper, i have found that you will lose some due to the adhesive properties of the powder. as István has noted, they are very similar to pastels... and may well be... but i have found that they DO stick better the more y

NASO has been oon the list several times... it was even considered when i was there in the 80s... they wont close it because it brings too much money into virginia beach during the winter... VB is a resort town that hates squids (sailors), so it caters to the 50+ tourist crowd for the revenue in the summer, and during the rest of the year its NASO and the other bases that keep that POS city on the map. as much as they hate sailors.... youd think theyd APPRECIATE their patronage and business

once youre close the desired shape... i use CA to build up the short side and round it out

Hey! since the 'other' forum i go to is full of weenies and wankers, i thought i would post these here... if the moderators do not approve, i fully understand and deleting this post will be OK with me... i just REALLY like you guys and your opinions... what do ya think? click for larger image... its a 1967 Chevy Chevelle i shaved the door handles for the rod look and the pic of the rear suspension shows scratchbuilt shocks and coil-over springs opinions and critiques are requested

to check the needle, you ca roll it... or what i do is drag it by the flat end across a paper towel while spinning it... if it puls the paper, its bent... works on a regular towel of the terry-cloth variety as well... good luck! :(

its been my experience that sandy wet virgins only appear in your dreams... or on girls gone wild videos... as far as the polishing pack goes, i found that at HobbyTown USA... they are from micromark so... youre saying that i should maybe rough up the mirror finish of the primer so that the new top color coats will stick?