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nick_wolf1

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Everything posted by nick_wolf1

  1. Yeah, the green apple smelling stuff it is. I have some 50 ml poured by a fellow modeler.
  2. Actually the product formerly known as "Klear" is now called "KLEAR PLEDGE MULTI SURFACE WAX". According to S.C. Johnson UK Does anybody had a hand on it and how does it compare to the old "Klear"?
  3. Alas, we are not blessed by SC Johnson with "the real stuff". We have an alternate product distributed here - Pronto Cera Veloce, which is some milky whiteish sh#t that doesn't even come close to the Future Wax qualities.
  4. Thanks a lot! Any chance for a store that ships the original 27 oz bottles with the atomic logo?
  5. Does anybody knows a reliable source (web store) of Future floor wax (or Pledge with Future Shine as is the new name of the product) which ships to Europe?
  6. Would be nice to see new tool 1/48 S-3 with folded wing option and parts for the latest updates. Also of cource A-6E Intruder TRAM, Vietnam era A-6A and A-6B "Iron Hand" with proper armament in 1/48th scale. Perhaps RB-66 or EB-66 in 1/72 is not a bad idea.
  7. I have the folding wing set for Academy F/A-18C 1/72 and though I haven't used it yet I test fitted it and everything looked OK. There might be some 1 mm. less in the ailerons length compared to the Academy but this shouldn't be real problem since this is the folding wing set and the ailerons stand vertical and don't have to be aligned with the flaps.
  8. Thanks, Rex! If the Hase and Revell wings match then it might be safe to think that WP wings would fit Revell kit.
  9. Hi, there The title pretty much says it all:) Can I use Wolfpack wing sets (72008 - flap down or 72001 - folding wing) on Revell F/A-18E 1/72? The sets are made for Hasegawa kits. Does anybody know if there is some size difference which would make the "transplantation" impossible. The area of concern is the wing-to-body joint since Wolfpack provides all wing details, not just the moving surfaces, and the wing surfaces of the Revell kit have to be cut off the fuselage parts.
  10. Old fashioned razor blade (the rectangular stuff) jagged with some hard tool, modeling knife for example. I've managed to cut off thick steel hypodermic needle with such home-made razor saw.
  11. There is Valejo thinner for their acrylic paints. Kinda milkish stuff. They suggest adding a drop or two in the mix to prevent clogging and delay drying. Valejo Model Air are thin enough in my opinion so no large amount of thinner is needed, just a drop or two.
  12. The Czech model paints manifacturer Agama has Engine Grey in their catalog both in enamel and acryl under No. A46. They also quote the color as ANA 513 and explain that it has been used for engine crankcases by amerikans. I have used their acrylic paints and I'm pretty pleased with their performance. Agama home page: http://agama-model.cz/ Hope this helps.
  13. My first post here, so be gentle:) Italeri 1/72 Ju-87G-2 (wannabe IMHO:)) Biult OOTB, except some scratch-biult bits (antenna wire, non slip area, cannon mounts details).
  14. I have the CMK Interior set for OV-10D and if you don't plan to convert OV-10A to D I think there is no reason to use the conversion set. The interior set includes vacform canopy, photoethed fret, cockpit tube, compatrment interior and rear door, some electronic equipment to place in the rear door, nose gear well, ejection seats. The only fault I've encountered so far lays in the ejection seats. The parachute packs are centered but schould be side shifted to aid the seats separation during ejection.
  15. Hi, there:) The topic title says it all:) Can I put two BLU-27 finned napalm canisters on A-37B? I plan to replace the outer pair of drop tanks under the wing with napalm bombs and since I have BLU-27s from the Hasegawa Weapons Set I, I want to know if I can use them.
  16. I've placed an order from GreatModels an year ago and had the stupidity to choose surface mail for shipping method. I live in Bulgaria and I haven't received anything yet. After some e-mails exchange with GMW about 2 months ago, they said that thay would place a new order but 4 out of 6 items that have been in my original order are out of stock now. I gave up trying to figure out what is it gonna be under these circumstances and ordered the goods from another webstore.
  17. Thank you for the advices people:) It is done :D I bought the AC-100S one:) Haven't sprayed anythig yet, because my airbrush doesn't fit to the compressor's hose connector. But that appears to be not a great problem. I'll go to some mechanic workshop and have a customl connector made :D Btw, my airbrush is Revell Profi 700. I've bought it 5 years ago. Double action, 0.45 nozzle. I'm plannig to get Iwata, Hansa or Sparmax airbrush with 0.2 or 0.3 nozzle, but this will be a little further
  18. And there is another question. My airbrush has 0.45 mm nozzle and there is no replacement for it. I hope AC-100 can provide stable airflow for it. I plan to get some 0.2 or 0.3 nozzle airbrush but this is not going to happen in the immediate future:)
  19. Can't say... Think the moisture level is average here... I'd say rather no. In fact the moisture is abount 43% in this very moment: But since the compressor has moisture trap what is the problem:)
  20. The regulator/moisturte trap is not shown on the picture. But it stays between the two hoses. And you can put the trap into the metal ring holder which is mounted on the compressor. One hose connects compressor with the regulator and the other hose connects the regulator with the airbrush. May be having two hoses avoids pulsations in the air flow more better.... Here is another pic of AC-100S this time with everything on it:) http://www.hobymodels.com/catalog/images/m...rmax/ac100s.gif
  21. There is some missunderstanding here:) I am going to buy AC-100. But there are two submodels AC-100 in the store. AC-100 and AC-100S. The latter has two hoses and the moisture trap/regulator is between them. AC-100 has only one hose and the moisture trap/regulator is mounted directly to the compressor without a hose. The thing that concerns me is that the compressor with two hoses is actually about 6$ cheaper than the compressor with only one hose, which is a little against the logic:) So I'm asking is there any invisible difference between AC-100 and AC-100S besides the hoses? May be better
  22. Well, unfortunately I have no option for a compressor with a tank. The silent ones are almost twice the price of Sparmax AC-100. The compressors in the hardware stores are too powerfull for just airbrushing (and this is what I intend to use my compressor for) and too noisy and large. I live in an apparment and I can't afford such noise:) I think that the only flaw of the "tankless" compressors is the limited time they can work before some cooling pause. But since I use enamel paints (the only ones I can find in Bulgaria...) and have time for modellind once a weekend (at most) I think that some
  23. Hi there:) I want to ask for advice about the Sparmax compressors. I'am planning to buy one and I am trying to make the right decision:) The options I can afford are: Sparmax AC-100 http://www.artservicebg.com/data/imgs/23.gif Sparmax AC-100S http://www.artservicebg.com/data/imgs/24.gif The two devices look pretty identical except for the hoses/mosture trap configuration. The AC-100 has only one hose between the moisture trap/regulator and the airbrush. Respectively the moisture trap is mounted directly to the compressor. The AC-100S has two hoses (not shown on the pic) and the second on
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