Zmey Smirnoff

I'll tell you the secret... Russian AF does not use Tamiya paints to paint the planes. :) If you want to match the color as close as possible, pick a picture of a particular plane and match the colors to it. Scale effect and weathering (however light or severe) will make the model painted in accordance with instructions look less life-like. Also, try to pick a picture out of the magazine or a book. Calbration of your monitor and video card may run some intererence with "true" color... at lest that' what aficionados say. my $0.02 Regards Z.S.

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I'll add

It's a good thing I got a head start on this one... December 31st 2004 sounds like a fair deadline. Z.S.

I'm building 1:72 UB version, with minor additions in cockpit, weapons and LG. I'll be building normal RF VVS combat ready Flanker. This bird didnt get flashy paintjob, but it got teeth... Z.S.

Enamels - more colors, easy clean up, cheap solvents, better coverage (except flat white) Earth FIRST.... we'll log and mine other planets later. Z.S.

I've thought about it when I was planning on sanding Italeri's Tu-22M3's nose back into shape. I was thinking of filling the empty space with layers of putty. Letting each layer dry and cure and adding more putty. I have not tryed it yet, so take it with a grain of salt. Z.S.

true.... true... I'm bored Z.S.

Just make sure you add plenty (50+%) of white to compensate for weathering and scale effect. There were plenty of IL-2s in the Russian inventory but I seriously doubt that any were painted in vivid bright high density blue. :P Dont forget to share in-progress pics. :huh: Z.S.

I'm dumping enamel solvents and paint/laquer thinners down the drain without a care in the world. Turn the water on and pour.... damn, can't be nearly as bad as my wife's cooking. Z.S.

Cigarette paper might be too thin. For weapon slings in 1:35 I use foil found in Parliament cigarette packs, it actually has surface detail that resemble belts. Z.S.

Good one urloony! I can only add - sell a half of your stash and buy tools... and plasma TV, while at it! Z.S.

I'll second Jamie Cheslo in using Testors dull coat to seal pastels. As far as the sequence of coats I prefer the following. Paint Future Decals Future (optional if area of decals is small) Pastels and other weathring mediums Testors dull coat in several light coats. Allow one coat to dry (5-10 sec) before applying the next. :wacko: Z.S.

Suggestions? Absolutely. Dont use them. Not on the model at least. An old guy in the hobby shop told me something along these lines. If a particle of paint that comes out of the spraycan is a basketball, an average airbrush atomizes the paint to the size of an apple, while good airbrush will spray as small as a golf ball. You can get Paasche VL for $40 over eBay and awesome compressor with moisture trap, tank and regulator for $70 from Wal-Mart. Seize the day! :) Z.S.

I enjoy working with MM's acryllic white. Excellent results in 3-4 coats. Z.S.

Quite a long time ago I finally recognized advantages of Model Master Acrylic paint over MM's enamels. One thing, though, prevented me from switching completely. - MM Acrylic are a PAIN IN THE *** to clean your airbrush after! Hence the question: What is an absolutely best solution (pun intended) to remove acrylic paint from the bowels of my airbrush. I currently use isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol from my local CVS, and it's not quite cutting it. Thanks in advance guys! Z.S.

MikeV Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Could you cite the "right" price ranges for Iwata Eclipse series, as well as Omni series? "You know, I don't want to pay too much" © Best Regards. Z.S.

MikeV, thank you for comprehensive and expedient reply. Could you describe advantages and shortcomings of gravity vs. syphon vs. side-feed airbrushes? I'm getting the feeling that you know what you're talking about. Thanks in advance. Z.S.

Use the "search" feature, and scan the forum for mentioning of Future. You wont regret it. Z.S.

Thank you for your replies, gents. Though suggestions like "practice" " and "properly thinned paint" are valid... well... I figured that much. It looks like Iwata (HP-B, HP-CS and Eclipse) are the most frequently mentioned ones. Having heard good of Iwata beforehand, I think I'll give it a try. thanks again for your input. Z.S.

Mike W, would it be too much of a hassle for you to scan those practice results of yours and post them here? I heard many good things about Iwata. I would love to see actual results. Thanks for your time. P.S. If you decide to post samples, dont forger to put a ruller or a dollar bill right nex to it, for comparison. Z.S. :lol:

Sounds like someone is selling Future... Only 57 easy payments of $49.95 plus shipping. BUT WAIT!! Call now and get box of matches of $5 value absoooooooluuuutely FREE! Yawn... Z.S.

I suspect that my Paasche VL could be less than ideal airbrush for painting free-hand camo and thin lines in1:72nd scale. I'm open to your suggestions for ABSOLUTELY BEST airbrush for thin lines and free-hand camo. Lets hear it!! Z.S.

Speaking of Tu-160...check out yesterday's update on Hyperscale... Amodel made one! Berievs are much needed indeed. And lets not forget about the ENTIRE line of comercial airliners. Z.S.

Let's see. Yak-52 Yak-25 M4 Bison. IL-38 An-225 Mriya Decent Energiya-Buran in 72 wouldnt hurt either Tu-22M MiG-29SMT Could I ask for MiG-21 too? List goes on. Z.S.