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Yarm6

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Everything posted by Yarm6

  1. I don’t know about any covers, but I too would be interested in any information. I have the same problem when using the siphon feed metal color cup that came with my Badger 155. The cup inserts from the bottom in the siphon feed port, but the cup sticks up and has a large top opening. I can’t count how many times I’ve moved the airbrush to get a nice tight pattern, only to dribble all over the table, floor and sometimes model. :blink: I didn’t have the problem with my Aztek because the cups had covers with little holes to let the air in. Any info for Badger color cups would be helpfu
  2. I washed the primed model with rubbing alcohol and then left to air dry. The primer was drying for about a week before the acrylic on top. That’s good to know about how the paint cures from top down. I’ll keep in mind the three day curing period; that might be a good benchmark. That may also explain why the metallic grey was much stronger, I think that was curing for at least 4 days before I even moved it. I might have nicked the sides of the part while the green was still not fully cured. That would also explain why last night after several days, the paint seemed “strongerâ€. Thanks fo
  3. Thanks for the reply Matt. The rub down with 2000 was mostly to remove the bumps and annoying dust particles that always find there way to fresh paint. I’m not sure if it’s something I did with the paint. I’ll be honest, it was NATO green for a M1A1HC tank (I know, a tank, just spent a lot of time on my Corsair II, so I needed something different). I ended up spraying some Tamiya Metallic Grey (can’t remember the number) over some other primed pieces and that stuff was tough as nails. I even sprayed some MM Metalizer (lacquer) over some spots and it did nothing to the Metallic Grey. I
  4. I recently bought a few pots of Tamiya acrylic paint and wanted to try them on a new project. After searching the forums, I decided to use a primer underneath (I generally used a grey primer underneath my enamels, to check for flaws, etc.) so I picked up a can of the Tamiya Fine Surface Primer (white) and gave that a whirl. So the Tamiya spray primer was great! It leveled out very nicely and I was impressed with the coverage. I thought it would not get into all the crevices, but it did. I sprayed it on in nice thin coats. Then I gave all the parts a quick rub down with 2000 grit sand paper.
  5. Thanks, this was the exact type of information I was looking for. I have heard great things and finally saw a can of it in my local hobby shop, so I grabbed it. I will resist the urge to just try to get it all covered in 1-2 coats (for some reason I try to cover in 1-2 passes with spray bombs, I seem to have much greater restraint when using my airbrush and do several nice thin coats) and make several very thin passes from about 5-6 inches. Plus it’s just primer and I’ll go over with the final color coats from an airbrush. I’ll try it on scrap parts first though. Thanks again everybody.
  6. Thanks for the info. I’ll try the light mist coat first. I’m just a bit worried about the coverage and going on too thick. I guess if I don’t like it, I can always go back to the airbrush primer. Seems like you both like the product. I know Madmike always recommends it, maybe he has some suggestions as well. I do like the idea of using a can and not having to break out/clean the airbrush just for primer.
  7. I recently purchased a can of Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, the white variety. I was just looking for some tips and techniques on using this product. I have done a search on the forums and it looks like a great primer. How does it cover from the can? Is there any trouble getting into tight “nooks and crannies� Should I heat the can up a bit like usual? I’m just a little worried I will have a hard time getting nice coverage, and getting into all the tight spaces. I generally use Floquil grey primer in my airbrush. I’ve always had much better results with an airbrush than rattle cans. Is
  8. Thanks for the replies and help. It’s an A-7 and I looked at some reference photos of the plane I’m doing and there appears to be no walkway on the fuselage present in the photos. It does show a dark gray walkway on the horizontal stabilizers, so I’ll go with your recommendations. Thanks for your help!
  9. Hi Everyone, I was wondering what color would generally be used for Navy aircraft wing walkways? I know the colors can vary all over from a lighter gray to almost black. Does anyone have any suggestions for one good color that would represent these walkways? This would be for a gull gray/white Navy plane. I was thinking maybe a dark gull gray or dark ghost gray. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks for your help. Dave Love those bananas' B)
  10. T-bone, did you spray this wash through the airbrush, or hand brush this mixture over the AC? Thanks for the help
  11. I totally agree with Istvan! I have been thinking about getting an organic vapor respirator but thought the open window in the garage and “dust†mask would be fine. Well, today I went to Home Depot to get one and they had this nice 3M one for about $27. At first I thought, ooh that’s a little steep, but then I decided that my health is worth a lot more than $27!!! Can’t wait to use it and my wife will be happier because I’m being safe. Thanks for listening, just my two cents! :P Dave
  12. Hi Everybody- I have two questions that have to deal with airplanes (and other parts such as landing gear) that are white. First, if the part was preshaded and then painted white, what color would I use to dry brush to bring out the details? Usually you use a lighter color, but what’s lighter than white? :blink: What do other people usually do in this situation? Secondly, I am doing a gull gray and white plane and wanted to post shade the white to break up the monotone appearance. I preshaded the plane and then painted the white. It looks pretty good, but wanted to make it better. I was t
  13. I used Squadron White putty on my A-7 ejection seat for a cushion. The out of the box seat looked horrible. So I put some putty where the cushion would be and roughly shaped it with the nail polish remover and q-tip trick. Once it was dry, I sanded and engraved some detail lines and “ridges†with my scriber. With a wash and dry brushing, it looks great. Much better than the stock seat and way cheaper than an aftermarket seat. Just my opinion. Hope this helps Dave
  14. I have always used the Testors Flat in the spray bomb for many years. Then trying something new on my F4U-2, I tried mixing Tamiya Flat Base with Future. I sprayed it on the plane and it looked pretty good. I liked how I could vary the degree of “flatnessâ€. Always looking for something new, I bought a bottle of the Polly Scale clear flat. I haven’t done any spraying yet, but finished some landing gear legs that had a few placard decals. I hand brushed the Poly Scale flat over the legs and they look great. Can’t wait to airbrush the Poly Scale. Seems like a great flat, so I’ll put my
  15. Great! Thanks for the info I'll try some of these things out on a scrap model before I try it out on my A-7. I assume just start off very light (oh I do have a double action AB by the way, so I'll use that) mist coats to build up blend coat. One more question did just arise. Can I paint this heavily thinned mist coat over the regular paint or do I need some barrier like Future? I was just wondering if the mostly thinner from the mist coat would eat the underlying base coats of paint. I am using enamels. Thanks
  16. Hi Everyone- I have been reading a lot of topics here in the forums and have a few questions on post shading and applying a thin layer of paint as a “filter†to blend in everything. I’m currently working on a Navy A-7 in the gull gray and white scheme. I was planning on preshading the airframe in a medium to dark gray and then painting. I was going to apply the thin layers of white and gray first. What I am interested in is post shading to break up the monotone appearance of the plane around the gray areas. I have never done this before and had a few questions. From what I have read, t
  17. Yarm6

    Thanks!

    Hi Everyone- I just wanted to thank you all here at ARC for the great information I received about airbrushes. My old Aztek (it’s so old it’s the Model Master version) has been dying for awhile and I have been thinking about getting a new one. I looked through tons of posts about new airbrushes and the information I have learned was extremely valuable. Thank you all for posting your information and experiences with different airbrushes. So I decided on the Badger Anthem and got a great deal at my LHS (the set was only a few more $$$ than dixieart.com, so I thought I would support them an
  18. Thanks for the information and support. You guys are the best. Smithery- Thank you for the offer. I did get the Anthem yesterday and it came with one of the braided airhoses like jrallman spoke of. Thank you though! :o
  19. That’s interesting about the vinyl/plastic hoses. I was looking in my local hobby shop and they had both the braided hose and vinyl and there was about a 10 dollar price difference between the two. The Aztek hose I have is just the standard plastic/vinyl hose and it seemed to outlast the stupid Aztek airbrush. I was just trying to see if I could keep that old hose. I’ll look for an adapter first, but that might make the brush too “clunky†if the adapter is near the AB body. Otherwise I’ll probably just go with the plastic hose. Thanks for the info guys!
  20. Thanks for the info guys. I figured the Aztek hose would not connect to a Badger. Just hopeful. I didn't think of an adapter fitting. I'll check out both new hoses and adapters. Thanks!
  21. I was thinking about purchasing the Badger Anthem airbrush and was wondering about the hose connection. The airbrush is going to replace my dying Aztek but I was wondering if I could use the Aztek standard hose (with the 1/4 inch compressor fitting on one end and the airbrush connector on the other) with the Badger connection. Would the Aztek hose fitting work with the Badger, or do I have to buy a Badger hose? Just wondering and thanks in advance for the responses. Dave
  22. I like the realistic paint chipping effect too!
  23. Thanks for all of the info and help. You guys have been great. I’ll just hit the whole plane with Floquil Reefer White in a few thin coats. I’ll use it as a primer and the final coat. Thanks again :)
  24. Well, that's good to know. I assume you didn't add any blue to the white. I'll make sure I use an acrylic clear and flat coat too. So, does the yellowing have to do with certain brands of white enamel, or just enamel in general? What would make Floquil Reefer White stay white as compared to awful Model Master flat white? Would a lacquer based clear coat over enamel white intensify/accelerate the yellowing effect? Is this why it’s better to use an acrylic based clear coat? Just trying to figure how all this works. Anybody else have any comments or suggestions? Thanks for being so helpful!
  25. I have a bottle of Floquil Reefer White and I agree it is a great enamel white paint. I used it the other day and a few quick coats put a nice smooth white finish on the intake trunk of my A-7E. Looks great, and is nice and thin. I know there is talk of enamel paint ‘yellowing’ over time and this was due to the type of pigments in the white enamel paint. My question is, will Floquil Reefer White yellow at all over time? I have read the Tools and Tips section on adding a few drops of blue paint to the white to prevent any yellowing. Should I add a few drops of a dark blue to the Reefer Wh
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