velosirraptor1

Hi everyone : I've seen $80.00 dremel 3000 series just add a flexible for a few bucks more and pedal variable output another $12 and you have a tool for house job and any scale cut , polish , drill , sculpture , honing and even friction welding .

AKAN paint looks good on package , even better in a set for specific aircraft combos of 6 bottles ,... but when dry ? They look accurate enough? I know that paint for military purpose , have a specific requirements . And for visual contrast , individual perception is different . I want a paint that have good adhesive retention , but doesn't melts your model , or detail . I use to go with Testors model master FS* for my WW2 models (no primer) now I'm use to prep work with light primer Tamiya or cheap ones canned spray (those light viscosity , lacker quick dry)and seal paint with a c

A couple of BB from Daisy will always save time mixing paint ,some pigments fade with time . I always have a headache with cockpit colors Russian old an new plus all "K" export version remember mig-21 kind of Jade green and su-27/35 D egg blue. All brands have their formula . maybe Akan or mig have the closer color . All armed forces have their supplier With color specific . Air force have secret formula and contractors for pigment mission specific .

My answer is yes , I have seen a great results with Badgers electric motor air pump , even with a "beauty salon" nail airbrush pump (same as a body paint airbrush, pump) also airbrush that comes with . Just different in quality . A Campbell air tank can work if you have a pump to fill the tank , just add regulator PSI gauge, a separator for oil and water , and an air filter walaaa! (You just need a constant air flow dry and clean ) watch a sale app like get in eBay as example and try to get one of those old Badgers style (plenty of replacement parts) or speedy piston oil free For $30.00 or les

Epoxy is bonding agent (two part product reaction) that bonds everything that is not covered with a separator agent ,or oils, wax, grease etc. It will bond metal to plastic and even can be use for replicate or copying parts using a Master and a molds but that's another topic .

Any paint booth Will do the job even disposable cardboard/foam from school supplies, either from trash in super market , just improvise, a China electric fan or (recycle an old unit) even a couple of electronics cooling fan from PC will make job done . Safety first wiring properly cover and Wala. A working painting booth a foam rubber will work for filter (those used in air conditioner) making a dust free environment . I just got a sale event in a hardware store and got a bargain for $35.00 a hole set of an old speedy airbrush with a piston compressor built for ever Is a simple air pump w

Something good from Badgers airbrush: they come with a water trap filter built-in hose . Any compressor with or without reserve air tank like "car body shop" work. Just keep in mind pressure and water/moisture . Over 20 psi in my humble opinion is not needed.

Fish eye sometimes come out water in system paint thinner contamination or grease always seal different types of paint , hot metalizer will melt plastics if not careful also enamels , so combinations of paints have to be separated with sealer and different type of paint properly seal and after primer is cured .

The preferred method for gaps is use of tenax 7 or similar with plastic slim rods or styrene strip that previous in dry fit you Mark with marker areas with gaps be gentle tenax melt styrene strip but can melt model also in past people stick styrene in gaps with liquid model glue carefully to inside Seeam not Contac with exterior model in extreme cases Tamiya gap filer liquid but is better work with styrene rods along line of seem and dry fit until tenax or light Testors or Tamiya thin glue and melts styrene then Sand only excess of plastic that will come out.always use a primer to find real sm

I remember use flat colors real nice but have to be seal with semi gloss sealer or gloss if not will get dirty from dust that floats in air. Enamels have their thinning formula Mig have their formula (I believe is distilled water and ammonia/ but don't take from me) and metalizer are hot cause have thinner from alcohol or Lacker . Today is more often use semigloss, or gloss .for more modern aircraft with a dull sealer in last coat.

Amo Jimenez and mig* paint have the thinning solution, buy for that brand and thin paint enough to pulverized in a uniform manner some times have to be coated various times and seal after dried this are not mom acrilic paint for handcrafts that can be use with a brush dry technique . 50/50 some paints are for airbrush and come with a dropper even those can be thinned to have better flowing .

PS: Remember paints can be sprayed over other types ,model master regular Testors ,akan, and textures, remember to clear coat pain if is water base ,MIG,AK, and many more. Have adequate protection. Metalizer paints need to be careful ( those ,real good for engine's and replace bare metal foil ) cause are based on lacker thinner that is hot for soft plastic . Need a base coat and polished after dried to have better look more realistic .

You can use any compressor capable to generate constant flow if 16 psi or less from a piston ,a large tank for reserve air down to to a makeup air pump pressure up to 16psi is enough be aware to adapt (in a piston compressor ) water separator and regulator even knowing those have a simple valve that relive air from chamber and always can be improved with a air tank (reservoir) today you can find real cheap airbrush 2/3 stage with needles for fine to extra fine lines With real good reviews I got a China copy of iwata That is excellent a cheap badger and a generic single stage one remember to t