Harv

Getting this thread back on track: This link is from the Naval Aviation History Office...Good stuff on NavAir From the Naval Historical Center, > Link Here < here are the official documents you seek: (These are .PDF files, so you need Acrobat Reader) USN & USMC Squadron Designations VID System for Naval Aircraft (Tailcodes) ...Just here to help,

Had to go by the office to drop off paperwork even though it was the last day of my vacation. The good news is that I had a box on my desk from Meteor! Took advantage of their pre-nats sale last week at the urging of my buddy John, but didn't get his 'wants' in time to include before the cut-off. Sorry, John! -1/32 ESCAPAC seats (1 with, 1 without belts) for a current TA-4J build -1/32 corrected F-15 burner cans -1/32 SU-27 Flanker stencil decals -1/48 F-4E intakes and engine faces -1/48 B-1B burner cans -1/72 B-1B burner cans All resin with the exception of the decals. Made the trip

Hard to take the fighter pilot out of the flag officer..."Jaws" Winnefeld was one of the young LT/LCDR NFWS instructors tapped to help plan, coordinate, and fly the many aerial scenes in "Top Gun". Neat guy with quite a lineage as Naval Officers go...

Harv's up: Adversaries, Baby! (What else?) I'm going to overcommit with two Hase 1/32 F-5Es in markings for the Bandits of VF-126 (Duke's ride); and an in-flight VFC-13 (pre-tiger scheme desert cammo). 1/48 Rev/Mono F-5E or F, in VFC-13 Saints (TwoBobs) tiger stripes. Fight's on!

Alby, As long as the Humbrol is fully cured, I don't think you'll have a problem using the Model Master Metalizer Sealer as a glosscoat - other than the strong fumes; but if you've used any of the MM Metalizers, you're already aware of that- The nice thing is that the sealer sprays so thin, and being lacquer based, it dries very quickly...and certainly will be an excellent barrier for an acrylic wash. Good luck: Knowing your work, I'm sure the results will be spectacular!

Okay, here's my list of some of those whom I've not only traded with successfuly, but many of these fine folks have provided priceless information and valuable tips towards building my skills. I'm sure there are plenty I've forgotten, but tried to put down for your consideration the following: Brett Vecchiarelli Brian Marbrey Eddie Grabot Jeff Brundt Aaron Pfau John Bibay Chris Ishmael James Arguello Dave Roof David Smith Eric Lakie Richard Evans Jim & Joe at Flightdecks The Two Bobs Fred Krause Gary Campbell Gordon Kwan Darren Roberts Pete Coleman James DeShiro Jeff S

Swammy- This sounds like a good, smart way to get the job done- Thanks! Still got a couple projects to finish before I'm close to the painting stage on my NFWS Viper, but will be prepared to go at it soon (maybe even in the Adversary/Aggressor group build here). Appreciate the assistance!

Thanks, guys, for the suggestions. I've thought about robbing the 'straw' extension from a can of WD-40; and I like the idea of shooting it into a plastic film cannister. I knew your collective minds would be way beyond my simple-headed attempts. Appreciate all of your help- Pics once I've completed my viper; and maybe even a show-n-tell for ARC on the decanting thing if I'm successful...

Hello fellow ARCers, I've read about folks doing just this...'decanting' spray paint into a container so it can then be better controlled by airbrushing. Can anyone describe for me the process? I'm working on one of the F-16N aircraft on the TwoBobs Old School Adversarys sheet, and one of the paint call-outs is available only in spray-can form. I've never tried to decant spray paint, but seems like it would go everywhere if I shot it into an airbrush bottle. Any help here? We're talking Model Master enamels, as far as the paint goes. Thanks in advance for any suggestions-