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Posts posted by MaRiO FDZ
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Zup Dudes...
I bought this kit in a recent hobby show, and Immediately knew I wanted to do it VIP transport. But I quickly ran into the issue of the version. I've been working on it last couple of days and I'm almost there. But I was wondering if I'd cast copies of the eventual finished product there would be enough interest on most of y'all??
Will probably obtain at least a dozen... idk.Anyway, here are some pics.
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10 hours ago, Ryan Hothersall said:
Since it’s a fantasy what if thing, paint it what ever color you like.
The point of asking is because I WANT to paint it Russian Interior. Preferrably the SU-27, not the turquoise one. Though I will get that as well.
Thanks -
Hello Fellas
I know, I know, this has probably been asked before but I cannot find a definitive answer. But then again, Russians being Russian, they have 0 standards and just paint as they go. Anwyay.
I'm doing a What-If Macross Plus YF-19 with MiG-25 Tails, F-18 Landing Gear, and Some weird ordinance. Just for the Lols. The sceme will be SPlintered Russian Winter with Blue, white and gray. That I do knowHowever, I'm not sure if the Russians have stopped using that funky Turquise Green they used to have in the Cold war and have gone to more normal Grayish interiors??? SOme MiG-29I've seen have that, but just would want to make sure I can get away with that...
OOOOR... what Color (preferrably Mr Hobby) to match that weird turquise.
Thanks Again. -
Hello Fellas
I asked in the forums on March 15 about Decals in 1/72 for a T-45 for a big project I'm doing (an FBO diorama with mostly civilian aircraft) but You get to see some Goshakws every now and then. I started looking for decals for a Kingsville bird. And then I saw THIS. ANd I said why the heck not?
So here it is. First aircraft started and finished in 3 years. Been building a Tank and F1 in the mean time hehe.
Exhaust pipe out of brass tubing. Pitot tube and antennaes out of brass sheet. Tail hook Brass tubing as well. Decals are DrawDecals. Mr. Hobby Paints (except the red, that's Tamiya).YEEHAW!!!!
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Thank y'all
This turned out even better than I expected.
On 4/11/2022 at 3:09 PM, GreyGhost said:Sorry Mario ...
How about the sheet on the bottom left of the page I linked?
Its in 1/72 and the top T-45 is a Kingsville jet ...
Hth
-Gregg
YEEHAW!!!!
Thank y'all for the little extra push 🙂 -
Hello People
Quick, dumb question
Gloss, semi Gloss, satin, flat. Etc. I’m building the Texas Kingsville NAS T-45. According to my reference, the plane is Glossy. Just enough to reflect itself - engines on fuselage and stuff. Plus a dark blue color and red both reflect better than white.
Anyway, I build mostly civilian airplanes - which are a bit glossier, and Formula 1 which are super glossy. My question is:
If the glossy scale is Formula 1 and Muscle cars are a 10, factory Civilian Aircraft are around 8, Semi Gloss (Tamiya) being a 5, and Flat Dullcoat being 0, How would you archieve a 7 ballpark?? As in a glossier semi gloss or a duller gloss??
I’m open to any brand (preferrably not acrilics) and mixtures to archieve this.Take Care
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On 4/2/2022 at 8:08 AM, andyf117 said:
There is a 1/72 sheet currently on eBay for a decent price:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125128163084?hash=item1d22383f0c:g:SZoAAOSw1T1h-PPk
I can only see UK postage quoted for it - but probably worth asking if they'll mail it to the US.
Yay nice but the seller doesn't ship to the US. I'm screwed 😕
On 3/15/2022 at 5:58 AM, GreyGhost said:
Thanks Gregg but this is 1/48 😞 need 1/72
Thank you both. -
Hello fellas.
I’m currently building a T-45 Goshawk for this mega project I have in the works, 1/72. ALMOST out of the Box. Couldn’t help myself. Anyway, I need some pointers.
I’m trying to make the build either Corpus Christi or Kingsvillr NAS based. I’m mostly into civilian and F1 builds right now so I have no idea what to look for. And yes I’ve googled but I get way too many pictures of which most are from just about any NAS around. And I need them to be specifically Corpus Christi or Kingsville, any markings will do as long as they’re based out of there
thanks in advance.
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On 5/25/2014 at 10:03 PM, RichardL said:
Great job on the tail. By the way, you don't need vinyl for the Silhouette Portrait. You can use Tamiya masking sheets or any other low tack sheets:
http://www.warbirdobsession.com/aircraft_modeling/esci_aj37/tailcode01.jpg
http://www.warbirdobsession.com/aircraft_modeling/esci_aj37/fusecode01.jpg
Quick question, do you have the Portrait Blade / force / speed settings for Tamiya backing tape?? -
Hello Fellas
With model master out of the picture, do Testors paints remain?? Particularly the Decal Bonder spray.... for home made printed decals.
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On 9/30/2020 at 1:09 PM, Pilotace said:
Okay, this is really cool! But...why is there a starting helicopter in the video on your phone??? 😄
Like I said before, fantastic work with the Decals. Could you explain the steps from picture to printed decals please?
Hello
Lol It was the best audio I could find so far for this example. But I plan to record the actual APU of the aircraft. I'll let you know.
Decals I just did them in Adobe Illustrator, I have this friend that prints them for me - Jon Ochoa from Ochoa Decals. I can do any decal in illustrator but it takes some time. -
Awesome work Andrew!!
Stay on Target!!! -
Hi Fellas...
I swear I didn't plan this. My other build - the Hawker - was always intended to have a display base because of all the project's electronics. I was fiddling around with the Hawker on how to arrange it on possible base dimensions and then it hit me. I realized I have a Resin King Air 200 which I just recently bought (and I'm dying to build) and this Arii Bonanza that I brought at Modelfiesta about 15 years ago... so like one thing lead to another and suddenly, this obscure, forgotten kit I had lying around in the stash was thrown to the forefront of the most ambitious modeling project I've built so far.
I've flown Barons before, but not Bonanzas. Therefore, there is no real reason for the selection of the aircraft colors except for "Hey I like this one" - and doing some Photoshop experiments to determine which colors would take a supporting role on the Hawker's diorama.
I started with glueing the seats to the floor and painting the interiors like the Baron I used to fly, a Bone white-ish color made by mixing XF-1 and a slight pinch of XF-52. It was during this period I realized the seats were too high, I'm guessing they weren't designed for this kit. I trimmed the headrest off.
Wing anti-slip surfaces were done with Mig's anti Slip paste for 1/72 buildsSince this build started as a support role, I originally planned to leave it Out of the Box. Yeah, Right. Like I've been able to do THAT for a couple dozen years.
Aaaaand of Course I could not resist myself and did some extra-detailing on the interiors. Basically I only added Seatbelts from Leftover PEs.
Here were the first attempts on the display base. In the end I decided for a larger base size. Will eventually post pictures of that as well.
Glued the halves without any problems. Nice fit on this kit.
Then I proceeded to do my Heavy-duty counterweight procedure - Lead Shavings. I used this on my TU-95. I originally tried to obtain lead Buckshot but it's kinda hard - and Illegal where I'm currently at - to own munitions, so I wen with the shavings.The bag contain about 200 grams of lead shavings. I'd say I'm covered for the forseeable future.
My intention to build as close to Out of the Box lasted exactly one week. I decided to cut the ... control surfaces on the Verizontal Stabilizors?? Whatever. All done according to reference.
Some more dry fitting. The prop is ok, but I have this friend that is the devil and he has a 3D printer... so I asked about printing a 3 bladed propeller for me...
So, one thing leads to another. This seems to be a recurring theme here. Anyway, It was at this stage after several days looking through Airliners.net for Bonanzas that I chose a scheme I liked. After some dry fitting I decided to tint the windows according to reference. However, I would not do the same tail number as, again, this build is purely supporting cast for the Display base. Also, the prop.
Funny side story on the prop - originally he 3d sculpted this prop for a project of his, a BF-109F in 1/32. He simply shrank the prop to 1/72 and gave me a couple to play with. The problem was that the German's prop spinned counter-clockwise, so I had to cut and reposition the blades backwards to satisfy my Inner OCD.Before I glued the windows to the model, I added the Instrument Panel hood (that somehow improves the looks of this model vs the OOB version). Notice the Window tint much clearer now.
So, the prop was painted with Alclad Chrome on the spinner, XF-19 on the prop's front side and XF-1 on the back side.
Right after this the Decals arrived. I made this massive decal sheet for all 3, Hawker, King Air and Bonanza. Once I got those I immediately started applying on the Verizontal Stabilizors
Ocha Decals RULE.
This weekend's work is as follows: The decals were gloss coated and the masks removed.
Today I gloss coated in the morning and applied the wash earlier. Again, Dark gray for moving surfaces and doors and access panels, and light gray on everything else. I still need to touch up a couple of things - exhaust pipes and stains, cowl flaps, boomerang antennae and belly antennas. And of course, the prop.
Thanks for watching!! -
Update: Current state of affairs
Decals are done.
Engines have been painted and detailed as well.Replaced Kit fan disc (left) with 3D printed version with correct Spinner cone and number of fan blades.
Cabin window masks removed, check on another light test.
Nose gear detailed
Work has commenced on detailing the cabin door.
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Thank you.
Oh, and y'all wonder why the Tablet speaker inside the model???
https://youtu.be/h7XIhg4dhDg -
Current state of affairs.
Decals were designed by yours truly, printed by Ochoa decals. Panels washed with Tamiya panel line washes, gray, dark gray and black on the ones that have sealant. Next up gloss coating the decals so work on the metallic portions (cockpit framing, APU exhaust, wing and horizontal stab leading edges) can commence.
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11 hours ago, Pilotace said:
And now back to the model: Really good job with the windshields! It's not just the position, the overall shape of them was really bad. Glad to see you improved it!
THank you! I enjoyed particularly that.
My money on the gear offset is on for Xwind landings... not that they'd help much. -
10 hours ago, Pilotace said:
It's not a big deal, you could leave like it is and nobody will ever notice it. This is just one of the peculiarities of the Hawker, besides some others. If you're interested, I'll try to take a good picture of it in the next days.
Please do!! I will most definetly take a look at it!!
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5 hours ago, Andre Luis said:
S E N S A C I O N A L ! ! !
Muchas gracias!
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17 hours ago, Major Walt said:
Now THAT’S what I call model building!
Superb!!!!
Thank you!
11 hours ago, Dutch said:Absolutley jaw-dropping good! Yes, you are a serious modeler! Nice work.
Thank you! And thanks to all the other good modellers here. But if I drew some ideas for how to build stuff, I definetly point the finger ScalePhantom Phixer, the Madman Pierre Greutert.
On 8/23/2020 at 2:26 PM, Hajo L. said:Absolutely awesome!
HAJO
Thank you!
On 8/23/2020 at 8:01 AM, martin_sam_2000 said:Beautiful build. You dont see enough models of coporate aircraft. Love the attention to detail you have. Looks exactly like a hawker!!
Sean
Totally agree on the Corporate aircraft. But I'm defintly detailing the sheet out of whichever I get my hands on!!
On 8/23/2020 at 5:09 AM, jenshb said:Can't see any pics.Can see the pics now. Terriffic work. Didn't know the windshield was too high up.
Thanks. Yeah, it's very noticeable if you leave it Out of the Box:
It's like Yes.... but no.
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4 hours ago, Pilotace said:
As an aircraft technician who worked a lot on Hawker Jets, I want to say: Awesome work, I really like your attention to all the details! There's one thing that caught my attention. On the real aircraft, the MLG wheels are staggered in its alignment, with outer wheel axle offset from the inner wheel axle. Seems like this is not considered in the model?
Regards
Daniel
Hello Daniel
Wait, what?? I had no clue of that. I guess only a serious worker on the aircraft would know that. Heck I've got several hundred hours on the type and I didn't know that!! You have some reference I could chew on?? I may be able to fix it since the wheels are not glued to an axle in the model but rather flat to the brake discs.
Thanks for the heads up. -
21 hours ago, dylan said:
it looks really good Mario. you have more patience for P.E. than me
Thanks :) I was used to PE but this was like 3 miles down the road. And I appreciate it cuz I feel I'm on a higher level.
Weathering on the other part... heheh -
Hello people.
I'm an airfoil guy - that means that if it has wings, I'll build it - that includes Formula 1. However, on the LHS they threw a Dare challenge to all of us that build Cars to build a tank and those who build tanks to build a car... and just because I once heard the name Merkava and it stuck, and I knew it was like a sports tank (turret in the rear) I thought how hard could it be??
So I started this build on a dare. Again, I HAVE NEVER built a tank before. and I RARELY build models that require substantial weathering, so this particular build has me a bit tense.
A good friend in the club said "you should try Voyager Photo Etch sets"... and I did. And I nearly repented. But at the same time, I realized this raised my skills substantially - so much in fact that all of the details I'm pouring into my other build - the Hawker - I don't feel are as frustrating as this build was. This friend of mine also recommended several weathering techinques for tanks. I am enjoying the results but being this much out of my comfort zone... I don't know if I'm building another one anytime soon...
Anyways, I just did some fading on the kit. Paints were mixed Tamiya paints, Panel wash was done with Tamiya Dark brown wash, zenith lighting base coat... MiG anti Slip paste. Right now I'm at the point where I got to fading.
I am relatively happy with the results, but this is my first time so I'd love to hear some feedback from y'all... Tips or suggestions are much appreciated and needed.Thank y'all!!
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Hello, fellas!!
It's been a while since I last posted here. Good to see some familiar names. Anyways, I've been posting my builds mostly in FB, but this one I've been posting it in several places and I'm pretty proud of it. Won't be finished until a couple of weeks, though. Man, I remember the day I posted here I was enrolling in flight school. So I guess it is only fitting this build sees some light here.
Build is Sword 1/72 U-125 JASDF converted to it's civilian Version, the HS-125. Especifically, the plane I fly for a living. Several modifications had to be done, specifically eliminate the Radome in the belly, cut open the cabin door, fill/open several other windows; and most importantly, the windscreen is molded all wrong.
Build officially started on November 19, 2019.
Door cut open. Radome removed by this point. Also, note the extremely high position the cockpit windows are. Totally unnaceptable.Fuselage/Windscreen seam was sanded until it was in the proper height, but now the width became a problem. Piece was was cut in half to accomplish proper dimensions.
Much better. Eventually to fill what has got to be filled. And here is where I started planning on replacing the clear part...
Lowering the Cockpit also required me to lower the cockpit floor by the same amount. Some more surgery was needed but nothing major.
After that I did some instrument panel work. I drilled the instruments because I planned to back light them with LEDs and with colored plastic wrapping.
After that, one of my favorite details on this build. The plane has sheep skin as crew seat texture, which was done by brushing white glue into the seat surface and dipped into marble dust. Any large or clumped material was dissolved with the brush and re-done.
At this point I painted most of the cabin, but it would be a long way to go before I actually detail it. Seat belts were added from leftover PEs.
After the seats were done, I added Throttle levers, Air brake, Parking Brake, flaps and thrust reverse levers.
After the cockpit was decently done, I began scratch building the aircraft's galley. Done with Styrene rods and sheet.
After the galley was done, it was time for more surgery: cutting open some windows and filling those large ones in the front.
After the windows were done, It was time to do more interiors. The step where the seats are place was scratch built with styrene rods.
On the opposite side both front and rear luggage compartments were scratch built as well. BTW all of these were tape measured from the actual aircraft.Next up was cutting open the taxi light cavities - which were non existant in the kit. The build was never intended to have those on, but since you can see through both if you look at the nose sideways, I decided to do the surgery. Also, notice the housing made for them, since the space above them would be dominated by the LED that would backlight the instrument panel.
Next up I washed the instrument panel and added the pedals - that would never be seen but whatever. Notice the emergency hydraulic pump handle was added as well as the fuel HP cocks and housing for the fuel transfer valves.Seats were removed to ease assembly.
At this point a very good friend of mine got a 3D printer. So we experimented (both him and me) on modelling and printing... one of the first things we did was replace the Kit's Yoke's with a 3D version. Much more detailed. Seats were added in place as well as the Instrument panel hood. The seat belt on the Copilot seat was incomplete but it would be covered by the rear cockpit bulkhead, so whatever. The panel hood instruments dials were kit decal.
So now came time for the nitty gritty. I obtained Mini LEDs from ebay some time ago and this was the perfect kit to use them.
After this, the LEDs were painted with Tamiya Clear Green and Red.
Next up, was the Logo lights. This were a pain to add, because I had to carve a channel on the Vertical and horizontal stabilizers, have the wires run through them and fill and sand them flush. The LED itself was to be protruding from the Horizontal Stabilizer.
After this, One thing led to another, Originally I intended to illuminate the cabin with side glowing fiber optics, but they never gave me the lighting I wanted. I decided to tackle this later with regular fiber optics.
Next up was the cabin door. Cut out of sheet styrene and bent into shape.
This picture shows how the wires for the Logo lights were installed. Took me a while beforeI found a speaker small enough that would fit in the kit but at the same time large enough to produce the desired volume. I ended up going to a Cellphone/table repair shop and bought a tablet's loudspeaker for a buck. What's the speaker for, you may ask? You'll see in a minute.
So I tried again to light the cabin but with regular fiber optics. There was an improvement but nowhere near what I wanted.
At this point came one of the crucial aspects of this build. What is the point of detailing this much interior if you can't see it?? So I printed the decal sheet in Acetate sheet. I utilized the kit's windows decals for guides and...
Took several attempts before I got results that I liked. this is only the first attempt.
And then the devil came...
And then MORE devilish ideas...
Testing Luggage positions. As If I didn't do that on my actual job... Notice this picture shows all the acetate windows clearely in place.
So what color should I paint the luggage...
After some detailing it came out like this:
Notice the PE on the roof panels for the AC Weemacs and seat lighting. THose came out of leftover PE from a MENG 1/35 Merkava Mk.IIID tank Leftovers. Also, the white triangle on the roof is a hack: Like I said,I decided that the fiber optics on the cabin were not sufficient, so I decided to install a Mini LED there. The triangles would hide the wires, and they would be very hard to see from the outside. This was the first attempts to make that work.
The curtains were made from paper folded in several pieces and stiffened with Super Glue.
At this point I decided to try another lighting test. I decided that a Mini LED in the cabin roof would give me the lighting I need while being small enough not to be visible. I liked this result better.
Now back to what to me is the most important modification of this build: the windscreen. Since acetate sheet was much more transparent than the kit's I decided to use it on the windscreen as well. I cut the window parts and left the frames only.
Notice I did some cutting here as well in order to better shape the front windscreen, closer to the real thing.
Now for the guts of it. I planned from the start that the actual wires that feed the LEDs would run through the landing gear, particularly the Brake lines. I could have used a GPU on the this, but since the Hawker has an APU, that would be unlikely. Since the lines don't go all the way down to the floor, I had to do some surgery on the tires to make the trick work.
Filling was done with Tamiya Putty. Also, to give some space for the wires to be properly fixed - and increase detail - I stole some brake pads from a 1/144 A330.The kit included a PE set with several minor details, one of them being the strut scissors. An obvious choice.
Lastly, I used some small tamiya tape to hold the brake lines in place.
Another PE part that the kit included was the Cockpit Roof and instrument panel. I also added the Switch board (red) where all the exterior light switches are, as well as the fire extinguisher switches. I also added handles on the window frame, those came out of the Merkava PE set as well.
After soldering everything and double checking everything - and unfortunately a couple of re-solder fixes - I Finally closed this baby, and of course because of all the modifications it used quite a bit of filler. On large parts I used epoxy puty ( green). At this time I installed the windscreen from clear acetate. Wow!
At this point I noticed the nose shape was a bit off. I corrected it with Epoxy puty. Note the landing gear hanging from the Brake lines, which are the electronic's wiring.
Final test before I mask everything up.
Instrument panel :)
After all clear parts were masked...
Wing fences were aded from Brass sheet. Kit included plastic parts which only served to cut the shape. Too thick.
Brass sheet was also used for all the belly antenas. All placed according to reference. Notice the huge epoxy puty fil on the belly radar hole.
And so we got to primer...
And paint is on. Decanted Tamiya TS-26
After the paint dried up, I glued the main gear in place to not let the plane sit on the belly antenas. I also started assembly of the Engines.
After designing the decals, I got in touch with Jon Ochoa from Ochoa decals who's kind enough to print them for me in silk quality. Obviously all pictures are reference from the bird I fly.
Using Tamiya Washes I highlighted control surfaces and moving surfaces with dark gray and some panels with gray.
After this I decided it was time to work on the nose gear. Original kit part was spartan. I removed the Scissor (since the kit PE had this covered) but also did some detail on the linkage itself. Also, the Rear door was included in PE but needed some bending in order to have it in the proper shape.
At this point the engines were painted.
Door was also primed and test fitted. There is an LED that will run through the door to illuminate the entrance, the LED must be installed before the stairs are. The LED is visible, the small yellow thing hanging in the door space.
And Finally, today I assembled the nose gear. It is still missing the Shimmi damper and the hydraulic lines that run through it (I already assembled them, but not installed yet).
And did some alignment tests on the nose gear. All is well.
So that is the current state of affairs. Tomorrow I plan to paint the main door as well as the main landing gear doors. Decals should arrive monday and once they do I'll get to work on them right away.
Thanks for watching!!
Modern Russian Interior Cockpit Color.
in General Discussion
Posted
Thank y'all very much for the info, Helmsman I went exactly that way.
Thanks again