Jump to content

sluggo2u

Members
  • Content Count

    184
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by sluggo2u

  1. I can finally log in from home again! 6 months later...................
  2. Dealing with that issue myself from the home base. Hopefully I can get back in someday. Good to it resolved for you.
  3. I will most likely be there. Riding along with 4 Armor geeks. Might bring my 1:48 F-104 along.
  4. Second that recommendation. Great place. Also check out Lone Star Flight Museum in Galveston, Texas. It's about an hour out of Houston.
  5. Been going on quite a while. They also have 40-50% off modeling stuff, kits included quite often. I just bought an Iwata Neo for 41 bucks with the coupon.
  6. I have never mixed colors in that manner but if I was to do so I'd use a graduated dropper or medicine cup. Start with where you want to end up. So if you are mixing 10cc of paint in a 60/35/5 ratio you would use 6cc of color A, 3.5cc of color B and .5cc of color C. Someone else may have developed a better/simpler method. This approach seems logical to me.
  7. I believe it's simply a color name. Who's paint do they suggest using? The color in the gloves in my avatar is Reflex Blue. It is in the solid uncoated Pantone library. I would be willing to bet they are referring to a color standard like Pantone if not a color in a specific brand of paint.
  8. I believe they would referring to the patience of fellow members who have the skills and resources to do what you are asking to be able to refrain from turning this into a blood bath. No question is stupid. You are learning and asking questions is good. That said, when someone that has done or attempted to do what you are inquiring about passes on his/her knowledge on the subject it's important that you take the time to understand what they are saying. I understand and appreciate where you're coming from. Like others have stated you will have to know how to produce vector graphics in Adobe I
  9. Can't answer that one. I have not been exposed to aviation grade materials since back in the Imron days. I used DuPont Chromabase on my F-104. It's a urethane paint. I primed it with DuPont 1K etching primer, sealed it with 1K trim and jamb clear and final coated it with Testors dull coat. I also painted most of the graphics on it with MM Acryl. No problems. I have painted Imron before and don't recall it being any hotter than chromabase. Here is the result. There's a thread where I talk about what was used and the process pretty much from start to finish. F-104
  10. Ageed. I failed to mention the importance of primer. Auto reducers are usually too hot to go straight over plastic.
  11. I've used DuPont chromabase on an aircraft before and cleared it with 1K clear. Worked ok for me.
  12. I'm down to 160 for the first time since getting married 27 years ago. The only real changes I've made is slowing down when eating and loading my plate about half of what I used to. It was when I noticed that I was always the first one done eating that I decided to slow it down. If you are eating fast and continue to eat until you feel full you have overeaten. Instead of taking two pork chops (or whatever) I take one and take my time eating it. By the time I'm done, I feel satisfied and not bloated. I'm pretty close to my ideal weight. Maybe could drop 5-10 more or put on some muscle. Mainta
  13. I've never bought plastic from them but my dad bought from them for many many years. They have been around a long time.
  14. Varsol is a petroleum product that used to be used by mechanics to clean parts. It's basically a paint thinner. I believe the EPA banned it's sale in the states in the 90s. Allegedly, Home depot sells this product My link that has similar qualities. I do not know that from experience however. Home Depot Canada appears to have Varsol on the selves. On my last build I cleaned the OOB canopy with denatured alcohol and lightly polished it with Meguiars plastic polish (1 pass) and it turned out nice. I try to leave my canopies masked for the entire painting process so I don't risk having more
  15. Great news and glad to hear it. Thanks for the update.
  16. Good to hear you are ok. Very sorry for your loss.
  17. I agree with the others. You should tackle your weaknesses one at a time. Try a couple small kits and don't worry about painting them to improve your assembly skills. Get some card stock or semigloss photo paper to practice your painting technique. Once you understand the mechanics of the paint and application you'll find it much easier to deal with. Painting a blank canvas allows you to concentrate on the application and not the outcome.
  18. Tough to tell from the picture. It's either fisheye or solvent pop. I suspect it's solvent pop. Fisheye is usually the result of a surface contaminated with oil or some other substance that paint will not stick to. Solvent pop is caused by solvent being trapped under the surface of the paint after it has skinned over. The surface has dried to the point where it is non porous before all of the solvent has had a chance to evaporate. This is caused by not allowing enough flash time between coats or applying too much paint at one time. It can also be caused by force drying the paint either intenti
  19. The paint has "blushed" on you. Pretty common when painting in cool high humidity conditions. You will need to let it cure completely then scuff and reshoot it. I will not fix itself.
  20. I would say it depends on what you hope to accomplish by priming. If it's to lay out a base on an already smooth properly prepared surface, yes. If it's to correct a surface irregularities, no. Think of primer as spray-able filler. Some primers are thinner than others but their base intent is fill small scratches and voids in the surface they are being applied to. As Chris pointed out, the surface itself is a factor as well.
  21. I tried switching to acrylics a couple times in the past and hated them. I tried them again recently and instead of bringing my enamel experience to the party, I had a friend who is a long term acrylics guy come over and give me a little tutorial. For me the key was to not treat them like MM thinned with LT. I like the fact that they dry quickly. I don't like how they dry on the needle when you are tying to paint small lines or detail. So far I have had no masking issues and I use pretty aggressive masking mediums. I plan to use acrylics as much as possible but MM metalizers and Alclad w
×
×
  • Create New...