Gabriel

Hi everyone! I waited about 15 minutes. No primer was used. When I first tested the paint on bare plastic, before airbrushing on the model, it worked just fine. I suppose I may have waited too little. I'll add a bit more thinner after some time anyway just to be sure. Thank you all for your input!

I've been airbrushing MM duck egg blue for the underside of my BF-109G. The first coats went just fine, but the subsequent ones had a rough, coarse texture that is plain ugly. I used the same thinner (lacker thinner) Any ideas of what went wrong? I appreciate any suggestions!

Jesus, except for the lack of toughness when masking, that is EXACTLY what I've been experiencing!

I'm going to strip everything, since the prints have stuck to the finish. How 's that for motivation?

I´ll try to get some Tamiya thinner then. So far I've been using isopropil alcohol.

After the paint dried on my model painted with Tamiya "japanese army green", I handled the model an got fingermarks on the green, but not on the lower surface, which is painted grey (also Tamiya). This happened hours after drying. Am I supposed to refrain from ever touching the model without washing my hands or is there something wrong with the paint?

Rafael, Será que Vidrex não ajuda?

Lovely work. The camo is really nice, what squadron is that?

Wonderful job!

Thanks for the tips guys! The plane I'm building was with the 101st squadron in Okinawa. Some of the special attack squadron planes look great indeed, but somehow I don't like the idea of building a model of a plane that was wrecked by its own pilot!

Japanese Army Green or Olive Drab? Or is it both, depending on the squadron? I've seen Frnaks painted both colors, and am tempted to paint mine Japanese army Green, 'cause it looks better :lol: I don't want to end up with an inaccurate model though. Any thoughts?

Thanks for your answer, Waco!

Bump

http://www.acig.org/artman/publish/article_189.shtml

http://www.geocities.com/~dagmawi/NewsMay2...SU27_Mig29.html