nachjager

About 95% of my kits and modelling supplies come from online retailers in Taiwan and Hong Kong, the rest from Sprue Bros, Scale Hobbyist and/or Michigan Toy Soldier. Only thinners comes from local suppliers like Home Depot or local hardware stores. I even get my clothing, shoes from online sources.

How about some instrument panel decals in 1/48 for modern jets (F-16, F-15, F-14, ect.), much like the ones Wolfpack Design gives you in their T-38 kits. I ma tired of painting those diminutive gauges and the Eduard PE just don't cut it. Apart from WD, only Afterburner Decals did some decals for the Japanese F-2 and they looked cool after applying to the kits raised panel instrument console. Just saying...

I have ordered them from this Ebay seller: Cro-Hobby NEVER had any problem and the orders usually arrive to the US in two weeks. They seems to be the only seller to have the modern us color (FS36375, FS36320 et al) in stock. HTH.

I use pure ammonia, it smell like piss but kills Future on contact. After that a good flush with common H2O and you are good to go. Bonus:I also have a small vase of ammonia handy every time I dip canopies in Future. if you screw it up you just drop the canopy in the ammonia, it literally peel and dissolve Future in matter of seconds.

The last time I used those little Humbrol paint pots it took me a couple of days to clean all the gumk and dried paint inside my Iwata airbrush. Bear paint from Home Depot sprays better...

Noooooooooooooooooooooooo....where is my F-16D in 1/48? Seriously, why why why another F-14?

Anyone here have a Wolfpack Designs 1/32 Sniper XR to sell? I have scrounged the web looking for a pair of those critters but so far nada, and the only place that has one in stock wants to charge me 26 euros for shipping. :wacko: PM me please , will pay fair price for it. Doesn't have to have the pylons, the pod will suffice. Thanks. Javier

Follow this link...Academy M1A2 review Its in Korean but Chrome's translation feature is your friend.

Battlefield 4 gamer here (with 1.88 k/d ratio) ! I only do first person shooters.

Yes: etendard decal sheet

A few months ago I was on experimentation mode and used the following for thinning Tamiya and Mr. Colors: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-Professional-Lacquer-Thinner-300-VOC-1-qt-4pc/17163377 and I was pleasantly surprised on how good the results. Also it is way cheaper. It takes a little longer to dry than the Mr leveling thinner, thou.

My answer: Use Mr. Colors (the lacquer-based line). Ir resist everything to can dish out. That's the paint I almost use exclusively and never had any lifting of paint when using enamel or oil based washes and drybruising.

Or maybe using this technique: http://www.theassociationofmodelsubmariners.com/t791p15-submarine-weathering-masterclass-by-alan-taylor

Thanks for the info!

Great, thanks!

NOICE!!! And, btw, what color (or mix of colors) do you recommend for the dark gray???? I have been looking at different paints but none seems like a decent match, the only one that look vaguely similar is the one named 'Egg Plant Dark Grey' for Akan.... Any suggestion?

Here is the link: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10343385 Looks like it will have the correct 'sugar scoop' exhaust deflectors. Cool news indeed.

Kinetic's F-16 nose profile problems are due to bad monitor calibration...

As title say, I am looking for PRANG 1/48 decals for the F-104C. I just need the decal pieces to build the aircraft in those markings. I know that Eagle Strike used to have a sheet with PRANG markings (8-239: Starfighters 1) and so do Victory Productions and Hasegawa in their 09725 boxing. Again, I just only need the PRANG markings. Will pay postage and/or fair price for it so please let me know. Thanks!

From the defunct FoxOne website: 1. Fill the scribing for the IFR probe door on the right fuselage under the cockpit. Leave the scribing for the IFR receptacle intact on the spine. 2. Fill the scribing for the formation lights (for the era my markings depict). 3. Remove or fill in the slot along the leading edge of the horizontal stab. 4. Use short burner cans parts T3. 5. Use the plain fin cap part N18. 6. Use part Y5 for the lights on the nose gear door. 7. RF-4Cs had both kinds of noses, but for the schemes on my sheet you'll use X1 and X2 nose pieces for the "angular" style nose. 8

From Hasegawa, absolutely...from Hobby Boss/Trumpeter...NO.

IMHO save your cash, I brought some of their 1/48 sets a few months ago and they where crap, zillions of air bubbles, deformed parts and soft-to-nonexistent detail. Their decals are decent, thou.

Hey KursadA, does that means we will see a 'new' T-38C from Wolpack soon?

As title says, I am looking for any of the above. PM with your price. Must be complete without missing parts. To maintain price of shipping low will only consider offer from US sellers. Will pay with PayPal only. Thanks. PD. I will pay for all postage costs.

The Extinction Machine by Jonathan Maberry and The Killing Floor by Craig DiLouie - US Army fights zombies and mutations to retake Washington DC (in real life Washington DC was lost since 4 years ago...)