nachjager
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Posts posted by nachjager
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How about some instrument panel decals in 1/48 for modern jets (F-16, F-15, F-14, ect.), much like the ones Wolfpack Design gives you in their T-38 kits. I ma tired of painting those diminutive gauges and the Eduard PE just don't cut it. Apart from WD, only Afterburner Decals did some decals for the Japanese F-2 and they looked cool after applying to the kits raised panel instrument console.
Just saying...
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I need to get some of the mr hobby colors for a Vietnam era SEA camo and want to do it with the acrylic aqueous paints. I know they're hard to find in the US but does anyone know some good places to order them online?
I have ordered them from this Ebay seller:
NEVER had any problem and the orders usually arrive to the US in two weeks. They seems to be the only seller to have the modern us color (FS36375, FS36320 et al) in stock. HTH.
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I use pure ammonia, it smell like piss but kills Future on contact. After that a good flush with common H2O and you are good to go.
Bonus:I also have a small vase of ammonia handy every time I dip canopies in Future. if you screw it up you just drop the canopy in the ammonia, it literally peel and dissolve Future in matter of seconds.
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Just a quick question, has anyone ever used (as in airbrushed) any of those Humbrol Acrylic paints that come in the little plastic pots in Airfix gift sets? I seem to have amassed quite a lot of them over the last couple of years and while I was about to send off an order for paint I thought "what about all those little Humbrol paint pots?". Are they worth it or should I just forget about them? If they are useable, will Tamiya acrylic thinner work with them? Are they compatible with Tamiya paints?
Thanks all!
:cheers:/>
The last time I used those little Humbrol paint pots it took me a couple of days to clean all the gumk and dried paint inside my Iwata airbrush. Bear paint from Home Depot sprays better...
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Noooooooooooooooooooooooo....where is my F-16D in 1/48? Seriously, why why why another F-14?
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Anyone here have a Wolfpack Designs 1/32 Sniper XR to sell? I have scrounged the web looking for a pair of those critters but so far nada, and the only place that has one in stock wants to charge me 26 euros for shipping. :wacko:
PM me please , will pay fair price for it. Doesn't have to have the pylons, the pod will suffice. Thanks.
Javier
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Follow this link...Academy M1A2 review
Its in Korean but Chrome's translation feature is your friend.
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Battlefield 4 gamer here (with 1.88 k/d ratio) ! I only do first person shooters.
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I use Leveling thinner. Highly recommended
Jeff
A few months ago I was on experimentation mode and used the following for thinning Tamiya and Mr. Colors:
and I was pleasantly surprised on how good the results. Also it is way cheaper. It takes a little longer to dry than the Mr leveling thinner, thou.
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Guys, any suggestions as to what brand of paints I can use that are compatible with styrene and resin parts, that are tough enough to be painted over and not come away at the corners when a cotton bud (q-tip) soaked in thinners is used to wipe away the overcoated paint? I'm thinking instrument panels, where i need to have the raised areas black, with the grey or base cockpit colour as the surround.
I have used tamiya gloss black (enamel) and acrylic grey over it, and even taking it gently using windex or equivalent, the edges of the black areas get removed.
Any ideas?
Les
My answer: Use Mr. Colors (the lacquer-based line). Ir resist everything to can dish out. That's the paint I almost use exclusively and never had any lifting of paint when using enamel or oil based washes and drybruising.
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Model Master Engine Gray is a great starting point too....esp. once the new paint starts to fade...
Jeff
Or maybe using this technique:
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FS36170 is the color you're after, mixed with Steel to get the metallic sheen.
http://www.hobbycolours.com/product_info.php?products_id=14305
Thanks for the info!
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As Scott mentioned, the color is FS36170. I recommended Humbrol Slate Gray in my F-35 sheets, but got some feedback suggesting better matches and I will revisit my suggestion when I get around to designing the instructions sometime next week.
Great, thanks!
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CD48093 will be part of the October batch, to be released in mid-month.
NOICE!!! And, btw, what color (or mix of colors) do you recommend for the dark gray???? I have been looking at different paints but none seems like a decent match, the only one that look vaguely similar is the one named 'Egg Plant Dark Grey' for Akan....
Any suggestion?
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Here is the link: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10343385
Looks like it will have the correct 'sugar scoop' exhaust deflectors. Cool news indeed.
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Kinetic's F-16 nose profile problems are due to bad monitor calibration...
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As title say, I am looking for PRANG 1/48 decals for the F-104C. I just need the decal pieces to build the aircraft in those markings. I know that Eagle Strike used to have a sheet with PRANG markings (8-239: Starfighters 1) and so do Victory Productions and Hasegawa in their 09725 boxing. Again, I just only need the PRANG markings. Will pay postage and/or fair price for it so please let me know. Thanks!
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Does anyone know if you can build a RF-4C from the hasegawa RF-4B?
From the defunct FoxOne website:
1. Fill the scribing for the IFR probe door on the right fuselage under the cockpit. Leave the scribing for the IFR receptacle intact on the spine.
2. Fill the scribing for the formation lights (for the era my markings depict).
3. Remove or fill in the slot along the leading edge of the horizontal stab.
4. Use short burner cans parts T3.
5. Use the plain fin cap part N18.
6. Use part Y5 for the lights on the nose gear door.
7. RF-4Cs had both kinds of noses, but for the schemes on my sheet you'll use X1 and X2 nose pieces for the "angular" style nose.
8. Use blank fillers L8 and L9 for the spots where the catapult bridle hooks go (parts L4 & L5).
9. Don't use the intake ECM fairings G8 and G9.
10. Remove bumps on upper wing above MLG strut.
11. Put a stick in the rear cockpit.
12. Do not use part Q4 in the cockpit
13. Don't use part N9, an antenna on the underside of the nose.
14. Procure some Air Force style main wheels.
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I have one consideration to do, we really needed to have another Hawk kit in 1:48 scale? There are already the Airfix and Italeri kits that are nod bad. There are a lot of airplanes that don't have yet a decent 1:48 kit as the OV-10 Bronco for example :)/>
Roberto
From Hasegawa, absolutely...from Hobby Boss/Trumpeter...NO.
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IMHO save your cash, I brought some of their 1/48 sets a few months ago and they where crap, zillions of air bubbles, deformed parts and soft-to-nonexistent detail. Their decals are decent, thou.
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I have asked the same question when I was doing research for my upcoming T-38C sheet, and someone with access to the actual IFF(*) T-38C aircraft confirmed these colors as 16270 and 16118. I don't have any "official" source beyond this, but I looked at dozens of photographs with color measurement tools, and these colors make sense to me.
I will specify these colors in the instructions of my decal sheet without hesitation. Good luck if you are looking for an official source, particularly since the latest USAF technical order is not easily accessible to the public.
(*): The aircraft in this scheme are dedicated to the IFF (introduction to Fighter Fundamentals) training; similar to what is generally called LIFT in other air forces.
Hey KursadA, does that means we will see a 'new' T-38C from Wolpack soon?
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As title says, I am looking for any of the above. PM with your price. Must be complete without missing parts. To maintain price of shipping low will only consider offer from US sellers. Will pay with PayPal only. Thanks.
PD. I will pay for all postage costs.
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The Extinction Machine by Jonathan Maberry and The Killing Floor by Craig DiLouie - US Army fights zombies and mutations to retake Washington DC (in real life Washington DC was lost since 4 years ago...)
Are you ordering your kits online of buying form local hobby shops?
in General Discussion
Posted
About 95% of my kits and modelling supplies come from online retailers in Taiwan and Hong Kong, the rest from Sprue Bros, Scale Hobbyist and/or Michigan Toy Soldier. Only thinners comes from local suppliers like Home Depot or local hardware stores. I even get my clothing, shoes from online sources.