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dai phan

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Everything posted by dai phan

  1. Here is mine. What scale and kit is that? Dai
  2. Hi all, I will post a comparison photo of the Mr. Color SM 201 and AK Polished Aluminum. Really I cannot tell them apart. I did not want to respray the slats, flaps, fuel tanks as I want some tonal variations and they look like they all come from one single batch of paint. Dai
  3. I use SM 201. Dries very fast and can be masked in 1 hour. Can withstand brutal pulls of heavy tacked masks! Dai
  4. Just for comparison, top is Mr Color Super Metallics 2 SM 201. Lower is AK Polished Aluminum. Dai Mr Color Super Metallics 2 SM 201. AK Extreme Metals Polished Aluminum.
  5. Beautiful bird. I simply find the AK paint too fragile and I likely will not use it again. Dai
  6. Hi all, Now the plane is painted in Mr Color 201. The flaps are in the original AK paint and really it is hard to tell them from the new paint coat. Dai
  7. Greetings, Painted with Mr. Color Super Metallics 2 "Super Fine Silver 2", SM 201. Does not quite has the reflective shine of AK Polished Silver but the paint is quite robust. The paint is thick so it can hide panel lines if not careful. Dai
  8. Hi all, I was unable to make the AK paint work this time as blemishes appear all over as I touch the model. Stripped the paint, re-prime and that gives me a chance to work on ghost seams. I am sure I am not doing something right as many people comment as how tough the paint is. The paint I plan to use is tne Mr Color 201 Super Metallics 2 that I have used many times in the past. Really robust paint.. This paint is thick and can hide details if you are not careful. Dai
  9. I used to use Stynylzer but I find to have tip clogs too often so I changed to 1500. Dai
  10. But really nothing major like P-51B and D. Dai
  11. With the upcoming Russian offensive, who knows what will happen in the future. Dai
  12. Hi all, For us who are rivets counters, F86 A/E/F are a word of differences. But for a casual modeler (turn yourself back 30 years), can you make out the NOTICABLE outline differences between the F and the A? I do not think anyone at that stage would mind weather it is an A or F. I want an A because it is never offered and like others, many do not want to bother with resin slats. But since I already did a MK 6 with slats, I wonder if I can tell outline differences bewteen the A and the MK 6 at all. Dai
  13. The undercoat is Mr Surfacer 1500 black. Should not be an issue. Dai
  14. Hello all, Tonight I masked the wheel wells with highly detacked Tamiya tape and to my horror, the paint came off !!! That means hours of sanding, priming and repaint again. I do not see how some people say this paint is “robust, tough as nails” ??? I will have shoot a nice coat of clear then mask again. I think I will not use this paint again. Dai
  15. I did tried thin CA to glue the seams, But it is very fragile. Seams can pop open after the plane is painted and decaled! Dai
  16. Hi all, Any news on US release date? Dai
  17. Yes that is what I did. Normally I do not have this issue. Why now? Dai
  18. Ghost seams on the bottom start to appear that means I will have to do some sandings and touch ups. I use CA for the seams and still have this issue ! Any thoughts? Dai PS: I think this is due to repeated applications of heat to cure the paint that causes the CA seams to swell up?
  19. Hi all, Tonight I painted the lower panels that suffered the most scratches and I had to use aluminum as I run out of polished aluminum. My plan is to apply a coat of polished aluminum once I have them for a uniform finish. However to my surprise the regular aluminum has a little more shine than the polished one (applied over matt primer). In fact when I feather these together they are vitually undetectable. The lower surface has combination of spot paint patch works and I do not think you can tell me which is which. I keep telling myself not to be so perfect in the paint because
  20. Hi all, I used AK EM for the first time over the weekend. I primed the model with Mr Surfacer black 1500 then applied Polished Aluminum. Even many hours of drying time, the paint was so fragile that even with cotton gloved hands, blemishes start to appear all over the model. AK website says you can polish with a cloth for better shine after few minutes but in my case, simply not possible!!! I wonder if I did something wrong along the way? The paint looks great sprayed at multiple light coats at 15 PSI. I applied Intermediate Gauzy Agent but as soon as I handle the model paint start
  21. Hello all, I do not know what I did wrong but trying to buff Polished Aluminum is not possible although AK says you can do so for a better shine "after some minutes" ! Trying to buff will remove the paint right off leaving silver residue on the cloth even after 12 hours of drying. There are many on the Net that rave about AK durability but in my hands, virtually un-usable! Dai
  22. Howdy all, Today is a day of frustration. Even though I applied the clear coat, the metallic coat keeps coming off like crazy just by mild handling even with cotton gloves. Every time I breath there is another surface blemish ! I spent a whole day and a whole bottle doing spot paintings and priming, sanding over and over and over again. Even with cotton gloves the paint keep coming off like handling a wet freshly painted plane ! The paint gives beautiful finish but in my first time experience it is way too fragile by any standards. Your thought? Dai
  23. Greetings, Tomorrow I will polish with a soft cloth designed to clean lenses then apply a clear coat. Tne paint is so fragile that you will rub off the paint even with cotton gloved hands. Any gritted sandpaper even with 3000 or higher will take the paint off. You need to protect the paint with a clear coat right away or appying 5 coats or more. The paint is very thin so you do not have to worry about losing details. For me I am tired of seeing the paint rubbed off so I will clear coat it. This paint is the most beautiful NMF paint out there but with significant drawbacks. I wil
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