galileo1

Thanks for the link guys. I need really small files, not just in length but overall. Rob

Where can I get good quality micro files? I need them in all the usual shapes. I have a set of three that came in a small plastic tube (Excel perhaps?) but they aren't suited for what I need right now. I'm working on a nose gear and need to rework the whole strut to make it look the part. Regular hobby files are just too big. Thanks! Rob

Funny this came thread came up as I thought exactly the same when I was painting the cockpit of a Hasegawa A-4 not too long ago. It was just too dark for a realistic effect. Because I prime my cockpits in black, I went with 36375 and looks just about right. Rob

Not much exists for the F-15D but this should help a little. My link You don't necessarily have to add the Aggressor stuff but there are some nice upgrades for the old Hasegawa F-15D kit. Rob

LOL! Rob

This is pretty much what I also do now, jbryan. For some reason, I used to get so bogged down doing the cockpit that by the time I was done with it I'd lose all enthusiasm for the rest of the kit. Now, I tend to start at the back of the instruction (weapons, wheels, landing gears, etc) before I move to the forward fuselage. The builds seem to go faster when I do this. Rob

I could definitely do a build blog with this one. Thanks again. Rob

Thank you very much, Saul! And you're correct, ultimately, the choice is mine to make. All the info provided by those who responded with CONSTRUCTIVE feedback is not only very much appreciated but has now allowed me to pick the kit I think fits my needs. Thanks again. Rob

Thanks, Laurent. I searched for that thread but couldn't find it anywhere. Much appreciated. Rob

Thank you!

Why is this thread opening a can of worms?? Is that because, perhaps, you're looking for something to argue about? So, I can't ask a question that renders a simple answer because...? Both AMK and Kinetic are represented on these forums. Are you implying me picking one over the other will "hurt" their fragile sensibilities? Man, this is getting tiresome!

For the record, I'm looking at this specifically from an accuracy, details, fit, etc. point of view. I'm not looking to 'stir the pot' sort of speak. From what I've seen, both kits seem to be really nice overall. I'm just looking for the better of the two (as I think anyone would). Rob

Looking to try my hand at a KFIR in the coming days but I'd like to know which manufacturer is the better choice in terms of the usual modeling things we look for (detail, accuracy, fit, etc). I've read a couple of reviews for both kits but they didn't really persuade me to actually make a decision on either. So, I'd like to ask the experts here for help. Thanks for the feedback. Rob

I'm sure Geoff of Furball will come to the rescue with either a decal or vinyl for the strips on the canopy. Of course, it would be great if they came with the kit. Rob

The few pics I've seen seem to show them with aluminum interiors. Don't really know whether this is the case for the early 31s or for all of them. Rob

Never thought about a sewing machine needle. Now that may be what I need. I also like Netz's sharpened carbide wire idea. Thanks much for the tip gents! Rob

I do this (a fairly old trick). Put some styrene stock (like Evergreen) inside a half-used bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin glue an leave it to melt for while. You can put as much styrene as you like depending on how thick you want it. Once it's all melted, use it as gap filler. Nothing better than plastic on plastic. Here's a pic of my bottle: If it's a really deep gap, try layering it. Wait for each coat to dry before continuing. Once you're done, it sands really smooth. HTH. Rob

That's a good tool but it's similar to the MDC/Ultracast rivet maker I have. I guess I'm looking for something to just poke holes on plastic. Perhaps something like a fine tip awl? Thanks for the link though. I may just buy this one too... Rob

I have more riveting tools that I care to admit (MDC/Ultracast, Hasegawa, Radu, Trumpeter, Rosie, etc) but I'm still looking for that perfect riveting punch. I need something that won't lose its edge/point after repeated use like needles in pin vises, etc. Is there anything out there you use or may know about? I would be interested in a tool/tools that I can use both with 1/48 and 1/32 Thanks, Rob

Superb build, Dave!! How did you like the new Vallejo metal paints? Are they fragile at all? Guess you didn't have any problems masking over it. Flory tried them and he didn't seem to like them. I'm thinking about getting some to try but still unsure. Rob

Seriously impressive work, Jorge! Rob

I have severe AMS and always try to add AM to kits that may not even need it but by the looks of it, this MiG-31 may prove to be the antibiotic I've been needing for this AMS infection. :P Rob

Yeah, the air valve in the Iwatas can be a total pain to remove. The casing seems to just be stuck in there with some form of lube. I had a heck of a time trying to remove the one in my Revolution. I ended up soaking the parts in lacquer thinner to get it out. I had to re-lube the whole thing to ensure a proper seal. Rob

Thanks, Chuck! I have the CM-C Plus as well but haven't yet used it with lacquer/enamel based colors. Good to know though. Rob

Pre-ordered from Lucky! Can't wait for this one to come out. Rob