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Everything posted by Pappy121

  1. G'day Gabor, Thank you very much for a great and usefel explanation, cheers, Pappy
  2. Splendid work Ken and a very useful bit of info too, cheers, Pappy
  3. Wow! Impressive work Ken. It is looking really good. Did the kit supplied masks work well, do they fit and stick well? I am looking at my instructions and your kit and noticed that the destructions would have you install part of the nose gear mechanism (the 'Y' shaped bit and its hydraulic actuator) inside the nose gear bay before installing the nose gear bay tub into the fuselage. I Think this would be very fiddly to install after the fuselage is all closed up but in your WIP it doesn't look like you followed that step. Have you already done this or do you have 'a cunning plan' ? cheers, Pappy
  4. G'day BD, I usually use CA (Super Glue), usually the cheapest stuff I can find at the supermarket, chers, Pappy
  5. G'day people, So I have been able to drag this one out of the cupboard of aimless destiny during the Chrissy break and managed to get a little more done with it. I have managed to get some paint of the inner wing/nacelle sections and the fuselage. The inner wing sections are only dry fitted in the pics below, The nacelles still need some more work and engine cowls were only temporarily attached using PVA glue to allow me to mask and paint the anti-glare sections, The cowlings have since been removed and I will work on getting the donks sorted next, cheers, Pappy
  6. G'day Oliver, Uhh nup, I didn't know they operated AS-532s! Thanks for the tip, cheers, Pappy
  7. G'day Mig, Awesome, that is exactly the info I was chasing. The CC set provides the round M-5 drum type, cheers, Pappy
  8. G'day people, I have a question regarding the cabin floor of a Vietnam UH-1B or UH-1C. I know that some uses (RAAF for example) would add a thin protective plywood floor doubler over the cabin floor. There were circular cut-outs so the tie down points were still accessible. Was this a common practice for US Army and Marine B/Cs? If so, would anyone have a 1/48 floor plan with the tie down points? I plan on doing the venerable Monogram UH-1B (converted to a UH-1C using the CC resin set) with the M-5 'thump gun' installed. This will mean the moulded 'lump' of ammo tins will need to be removed and exposing a large area of the cabin floor. Finally, does anyone know of a 1/48 decal producer that does markings for 1/48 UH-1Cs cheers, Pappy
  9. G'day Ken, Cheers, that helps a lot. Unfortunately I cannot help you with your Su-17M3>M4 question but I am sure someone will supply an answer shortly, cheers, Pappy
  10. G'day Ken, Stellar work! Does the M-55s variant of the K-36 differ much from other fighter versions (K-36DM?), because the sides of the headbox look to extend forwards a little more than is typical for a K-36? I have this kit coming from Crimbo (that is the rumor anyways) and I think I will swap the kit seat out for an aftermarket item unless it is 'unique' cheers, Pappy
  11. Thanks very much Seawinder and everyone else who contributed, 4 scale inches it is. I have been wading through several fora discussions on the subject of wheel well colours and door positions. It is a minefield with lots of contradictory opinions and evidence. My take on it is that the inner oors would normally be closed immediately after engine shut down as they only opened as the gear was cycled. Once the engine was shut down (and the engine driven hydraulic pump was no longer supplying pressure to the system), these doors would sag open, however the rate was dependent uponthe serviceability of the hyd system, so this may have been rapid or slow, but eventually they would sag. Of course, maintenance crews could also manually unlock the doors and open them for inspections and maintenance as well, so the answer is anything between fully up and fully open would be correct, but it would be typical for them to be closed immediately after shut down. Most people show them open as: They wish to show off the kit details They don't have to bother with getting the doors to fit The kit parts are engineered that way and perhaps the modeller doesn't know any different Now each modeller is entitled to build their kit how they want. There is also the issue of the wing panel lines being evident on most kits instead of being filled and doped which iwas normal (there are obvoiusly exceptions but this is how they came from the factory) but also ignorred by many modellers, personally I think this is greater innacuracy but again, each person has the right to build as they choose, but if they cite accuracy as a driver, then that is a criteria that should also be considered, cheers, Pappy
  12. G'day people, I have a newbie question regarding the yellow painted portion of the propeller tips of P-51 Mustangs. Was there a standard distance for this yellow portion, i.e. 2" for example? cheers, Pappy
  13. G'day Harald, Thanks very much, but do the floor hatches open upwards or downwards when used? cheers, Pappy
  14. G'day Andy, Thanks very much for the link. I had actually already picked over these pictures and while there is a wealth of detail on offer, none of them were able to answer my question so unfortunately I am still looking for an answer, cheers, Pappy
  15. Great stuff, keep going Ken! You are doing a great job finding all the pitfalls for the rest of us, cheers, Pappy
  16. G'day people, I want to build a Cougar/Super Puma and want to open the two hatches in the cabin floor. I have found some pics of the under fuselage lower door open/missing but the cabin doors installed/closed. Whilst I am sure the loadmaster could just lean out the window to get a better I think it would also be common (and easier) for the cabin floor doors to be opened. What I need to know is do these cabin floor doors open downwards, upwards or would they be removed altogether when the when the under fuselage winch is used? cheers, Pappy
  17. The PT imagery was displayed on the Radar Indicator Display (RID) and was present before the F-111Cs underwent the AUP mods. The FOV was diivded into an upper and lower display depending on which sensor (Radar or PT) was the sensor of interest. The RID was located on the right side of the cockpit, so yeah the PT display was on the rights side (the navigator's side) although a small flap on the left could be raised to allow the pilot to view the display as well. The Has kit is not perfect but the difference in nose profile is not that noticeable in 1/72, I could certainly live with it even in 1/48 but if you are going to tool up a new mold, and given the advances in laser scanning techniques, there is no reason why it could not be captured accurately. The new Airfix kits are certainly proof that laser scanning techniques can be used to produce accurate models, Pappy
  18. It is a dark blue similar to the blue of the (full colour) RAAF roundels, insignia blue would be about right. It should be a semi-gloss finish, not full gloss, cheers, Pappy
  19. Depending on the version, you also have wrong pylon and dump mast shapes (for the FB -111A/G) , for the F-111C AUP, the cockpit details that are not correct (the Eduard PE sets do not offer AUP details), and the PT pod is also not accurate. The RAAF decals are also pretty bad (colours wrong, roo shapes awful), incorrect bomb racks, the list goes on.... The re-tooled Academy kit did update the cockpit side consoles and instrument panel to represent the AUP cockpit, and also corrected the nose gear bay which is now very accurate, however the main gear bay was not updated and is very wrong,. The HB kit was definitely a missed opportunity which may have scared off other manufacturers. I agree, it is a shame Has never upscaled their 1/72 F-111 kits, still the most accurate Pappy
  20. G'day Dio, I just pin-washed the u/c bays with thinned oils. My reasoning is that the more you put on, the more you have to remove, so less really is more in this case, cheers, Pappy
  21. G'day Scott, Funny you should bring this up as I was doing some work on this one today. The eagle eyed may notice that there is a small bit missing from the lower right corner of the outer left wing's flap. Unfortunately I a managed to drop the outer left wing panel (the breeze lifted it off whilst the paint was drying) and now I have a little repair job on my hands😠 G'day, Weeeellll, truth is I didn't do it, it is pre-painted photo-etch, all I did was stuck it onto the kit part which is bereft of any detail, cheers, Pappy
  22. Thank you very much Chris, exactly what I needed, cheers, Pappy
  23. G'day people, I am chasing some pictures of the aft cabin bulkhead and engine well housing (sorry I don't know the actual name of this bit but it is the U shaped bit that extends forward of the aft cabin wall) without the sound proofing installed, cheers, Pappy
  24. Why don't you guys try searching for images of RAAF F-111G's instead? The astro compass was removed but the fairing it sat within remained. It was a raised rectangular section in plan view which blended into the curved upper fuselage section forward of the windscreen. There were ex USAF FB-111A/F-111Gs that served with the RAAF before their eventual scrapping, although at least two airframes survived disposal
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