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Everything posted by Pappy121

  1. G'day FNG, Yes the u/c is white, same for the NWW and MWW. The avionics bays are generally a zinc chromate yellow/green with grey or black avionic boxes. For the HAF SEA scheme, the standard colours are FS34079, 34102 (dark/light green), FS30219 (tan) and the underside colour is actually FS36622 which is a very light grey. On the HAF aircraft it can become very dirty and in some pictures it can look nearly white but it is actually a grey. The LGG you suggested is incorrect as it is actually FS36375 which is too dark and too blue. As for the canop
  2. G'day FNG, Typically, aftermarket replacement weapons and undercarriage bays should fit inside the kit, and if they replace the kit part then they should fit the same way as the part they replace (yeah right!). The problem is that the aftermarket parts don't always come with clear instructions, you may get a diagram or box top picture if you are lucky. You may also need to thin the resin part and the inside of the kit fuselage or wing parts to get the items to fit properly. Some brands fit better than others, Aires for example usually don't fit without a lot of sanding
  3. Lookin' the biznuss now! cheers, Pappy
  4. G'day FNG, I am not sure but I would have thought that the edges of the AM nose wheel well (NWW) would need to fit under/inside the edges of the fuselage parts as that is how the kit part (which is replaced by AM) fits. If that is the case you may need to sand down the back of the resin NWW so that it can sit inside, Pappy
  5. G'day TFG, I am not sure if you were aware but in HAF service the the darker exterior camouflage green (FS34079) was extended inside the intake for quite some distance back, about 6 feet in real life. I also found the fit of the air brake parts also problematic and it needed several attempts of careful sanding and dry-fitting to get all the parts to mesh together. I ignored the instruction sequence and built up that assembly separately first. There were still some spots that needed a touch of filler but it was easier to get all the parts, especially the small hinged sid
  6. G'day Andrew, Thanks very much. I can't wait to get back and start painting, cheers, Pappy
  7. G'day Bastian, No idea sorry. If I had to guess about 6in and they were all the same size so the same replaceable part could be used on the wings, fin and stabs cheers, Pappy
  8. G'day people, I am back home and finally got some bench time in on this one. The join between the intake and lower fuselage had a slight step. It was not apparent when I test fitted these two assemblies but was definitely there once the glue had set. A quick brush of liquid putty and a rub back soon had things back on track Next the tedious task of masking off the canopy and 'zorst Just about ready for paint. In the meantime, I thought that I would reward myself with some decal application starting with the f
  9. Nice work! This is how my cockpit turned out - I think it may be the same resin set. I left the HUD 'combiner' glass clear but painted the HUD lens a clear green colour (Incidentally, if you think it rude of me to add a picture of my build in your WIP I will happily remove it upon request, I meant no offence just to illustrate a point re the HUD) As mine will also be a HAF A-7H 'Alepou' I have modified the IFR probe to reflect the real aircraft. The spot where it normally would be had two strips of plastic glued over the opening to match pictur
  10. G'day Bastian, Sorry I don't but there is this new thing called the internet 🙂 If you have the Verlinden Lock-On book, have a gander at page 8 and the rear cover. Also the scale drawing included in the book. The wicks were black with yellow end tips. This was to warn and hopefully prevent people from grabbing them (why?) as apart from being fragile the end had two very sharp vertical barbs. Also they did not droop like some do, they were absolutely straight, If you can find some very fine carbon fibre filament works very well but be very careful using it, wear
  11. Steve is correct, it should be clear. When the HUD is operating, the HUD can appear green from some angles and I think some modellers may be attempting to simulate this or have misunderstood the picture (or they saw another modeller do this and have copied it) but the glass is clear. Sometimes you can see a 'prismatic' effect like that seen on camera lenses and there are clear self adhesive films that you can use to simulate this effect but for such a small item you need to decide if the bite is worth the chew, cheers, Pappy
  12. G'day Bastian, Love the attention to detail. Ref the static discharge wicks, note that the ones installed on the stabs are on opposite sides. i.e on the upper surface for the left stab and on the bottom for the right stab. This is because the stabs were symmetrical i.e not a left and right so the same stab could be fitted to either side but it was installed 'upside down' relative to its opposite counterpart. Hopefully this is not too late for you. Most people would not notice and most builders don't add the wicks but since you are, it would be a pity not to get it ri
  13. ES is ccorrect, the flap vanes need to taper in cord and they approach the wingtips. It seems to that the easiest (and cheapest!) fix would be to separate the individual flap vane segments and install these the correct way round as suggested by ES i.e with decreasing chord towards the wing tips rather than buying the SD resin wings. To me, the biggest selling feature of the HB kit should have been the deployed slats/flaps but HB screwed this up completely. Apart from the flap vane issue mentioned above, the other issue is that there are spring loaded panels on the underside of the
  14. The Reskit canopy is an improvement over the HB canopy but it is still not correct. The HB canopy has three errors, the major one being the slope of the windscreen, which should be a flat, descending angle in the side profile. HB have managed to make theirs curved giving it an upwards bulging appearance. Secondly, and you can see this in the comparison pictures above, HB have located the canopy bow too far forward which shortens the windscreen length in side profile. Notice the step between the cockpit bow and the fuselage side immediately below the windscreen which is slight
  15. G'day Thadeus, Thanks very much. The canopy fits very well although as you say it is a bit thick in the sides which results in some distortion. I doubt this would be an issue with the canopy open. G'day people, I have managed to get the lid on As already mentioned, the canopy fit is excellent however although not immediately apparent from the pictures there is some distortion when looking directly through the side sections. The canopy was dipped in Future following tinting so this is not an opacity issue with the tinting but
  16. G'day people, Getting closer to closing up. The kit supplied crew figures have been painted up. These are nicely sculpted for the most part with the torso including mask and hose details with a separate right arm. The left arm kind of disappears and is poorly defined and the head is also a bit too big proportionately with poorly defined details. I ended up sanding the head down a little and re-shaping. The details were the painted in by hand I used some spare decal placards to simulate the knee board checklist details I found the HUD combiner
  17. G'day people, I was able to find some pictures of my subject display jet with an interesting asymmetrical load of inert AIM-9M, AIM-9X and ACMI along with a pair of jugs that received some artwork to match the jet. I had a pleasant day today preparing the stores. The kit supplies a pair of very nice AIM-9L/Ms but I will only be using one. I was able to scrounge the AIM-9X from another kit and the AMI pod is a modified AIM-9 from the spares box. The kit decal sheet includes stores stencils and these all behaved exceedingly well. I used the spare AIM-9M stencils on the AI
  18. G'day Gianni, Thanks very much. I just coul not let it go and since it will be visible thru that big canopy it seemed like the right thing to do G'day Kurt, thanks for the welcome G'day people, I spent today on the back end. Revell provide both the GE and PW engines with some very nicely rendered details for the turbine faces. Apart from the mahoosive amount of flash on the engine parts After cleaning that up, the next problem I had to deal with was painting the turbine face as it is quite deep within the exhau
  19. G'day people, The fuselage is together! It went together okay but I found that the rear side portions did not marry up too well. Revell (and just about every other manufacturer) break down the fuselage into a horizontally split affair, but Revell have moulded the wings integrally with the upper rear fuselage so this is one less seam to deal with and also takes care of the wing anhedral issue nicely. Revell have chamferred the upper edges of the lower half and this part had a tendency to pinch inwards resulting in a small gap. If
  20. With the original downwards ejecting seat - terryfying! Pappy
  21. G'day Thadeus, thanks very much. I am a fan of the Has 1/72 F-16s (having built several of them) but I must agree this seems the better kit, but then again it should be as it is a significantly more recent tooling so it should be. The Has kits still build into fine models but the panel lines seem finer and more accurate on the Revell kits and the u/c is a massive improvement. The thing is, the Revell kit is considerably more expensive and closer in price to the Tamiya 1/72 F-16s (which I have not built), which in Oz is close to $60 vice the Has kit which can
  22. Yup GE engines. In this instance the tail feathers are visible. and they have a different shape to the PW engine which are narrower and closer (but not always) to steel colour while the GE engine has a more golden hue and the exhaust petals are wider, plus as you correctly state, the doughnut is black, cheers, Pappy
  23. G'day Gianni, glad this has piqued your interest, 1/72 builds generally get less attention. G'day people, The cockpit tubs have been painted. I opted not to use all the instrument panel decals as the supplied detail is very nice and looks good when carefully painted. I did use some decals for the centre pedestal as these are completely devoid of detail They look a little garish by comparison but with the aircrew in place and canopy down I don't think the effect will be that stark. The seats have now been painted up as well
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