Pappy121
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Everything posted by Pappy121
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G'day Sernak, I agree, this one goes together really well. G'day people, it has been a little while but managed to get back to the bench. I have added a nice turned brass pitot I will add the alpha probes when all the painting and weathering is done, they are tiny and will be too easy to lose during handling. I have finished blocking out the main upper side colours to go under the decals A quick dry-fit just because cheers, Pappy
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G'day TT, I fully concur, thanks very much for the authoritative advice, cheers, Pappy
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G'day again and thanks for all the replies. The consensus seems to be for a white fuselage bay but the wing underdside not so much. I actually found some pics in a response by the late 'Superheat' which clearly show a white fuselage bay. The red front wing section is typical, although some units used this as an oppoprtunity to apply some squadron art and painted it in different colours but the uinderside in red I did not see. I am not doubting it but it seems white was more typical? cheers, Pappy
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G'day people. What colour was the underside of the variable incidence wing and the fuselage bay immediately below it painted please? I am finding it a little hard to find pics of these areas. I am guessing either Z.C Green or gloss white? cheers, Pappy
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Thank you both for the quick replies. I t looks like it was possible, awesome work, Pappy
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G'day people, I have a question for Crusader experten. I have read through the pinned topic (differences between E and J) and it did not answer my question: Was it typical to see the variable incidence wing parked in the deployed position with power off and cockpit unattended? I would have thought no but happy to be convinced otherwise. I have finally acquired a 1/48 Has F-8E for quite a sane price and over thae past few years have amassed a collection of aftermarket. I would like to have one of the gun bays open and the wing deployed with droo
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When the RAAF retired its legacy Hornets, several of these airframes and spares (including the seats) were sold to Canada. All RAAF legacy Hornets were fitted with the SJU-5/6. Maybe the Canucks are retrofitting the NACES seat, but initially they were flying the same seats. The Supers/Growlers come with NACES as standard OEM fit, cheers, Pappy
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G'day Kurt, You did not mention whuch country. RAAF/Canadian A models used the SJU-9 (the '10' was the sub variant used in twin seaters), not sure about Spain, Swiss or Malaysian Hornets. The external difference is the parachute harness arrangement as the SJU-5/6 uses a US Navy style harness system but the 9/10 was fitted with a USAF style buckle arrangement. The SJU-5 (again the '6' was for a twin tub) was used initially in USN/USMC service but later these were retro fitted with the NACES seat, so most likely the latter seat. I like the Wolfpack Details NACES sets but for th
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I will qualify my remarks by stating that I have not actually seen the kit in person, my remarks are solely based on the imges presented here but I think the kit is a complete new tool kit. The decal sheet looks very nice and the inclusion of the munitions trailers is a very nice and most welcome touch. No kit is 100% accurate and this kit shares an error common to every other F-35 kit regarding the seat. The parabox is the early style rectangular type not the later inverted triangular type. Strictly speaking this is not an error, as early block aircraft flew this configuration but
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G'day, This was not the case in RAAF practice. Flaps and slats were extended before engine shutdown and remained so during weapons loading and reconfigurations. it was not uncommon to see an unnatended, loaded pig with deployed slats and flaps during weapons programmes, of course they would also sport an 'ARMED' flag hanging from the pitot cover as well, cheers, Pappy
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G'day FNG, Yes the u/c is white, same for the NWW and MWW. The avionics bays are generally a zinc chromate yellow/green with grey or black avionic boxes. For the HAF SEA scheme, the standard colours are FS34079, 34102 (dark/light green), FS30219 (tan) and the underside colour is actually FS36622 which is a very light grey. On the HAF aircraft it can become very dirty and in some pictures it can look nearly white but it is actually a grey. The LGG you suggested is incorrect as it is actually FS36375 which is too dark and too blue. As for the canop
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G'day FNG, Typically, aftermarket replacement weapons and undercarriage bays should fit inside the kit, and if they replace the kit part then they should fit the same way as the part they replace (yeah right!). The problem is that the aftermarket parts don't always come with clear instructions, you may get a diagram or box top picture if you are lucky. You may also need to thin the resin part and the inside of the kit fuselage or wing parts to get the items to fit properly. Some brands fit better than others, Aires for example usually don't fit without a lot of sanding
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Lookin' the biznuss now! cheers, Pappy
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G'day FNG, I am not sure but I would have thought that the edges of the AM nose wheel well (NWW) would need to fit under/inside the edges of the fuselage parts as that is how the kit part (which is replaced by AM) fits. If that is the case you may need to sand down the back of the resin NWW so that it can sit inside, Pappy
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G'day TFG, I am not sure if you were aware but in HAF service the the darker exterior camouflage green (FS34079) was extended inside the intake for quite some distance back, about 6 feet in real life. I also found the fit of the air brake parts also problematic and it needed several attempts of careful sanding and dry-fitting to get all the parts to mesh together. I ignored the instruction sequence and built up that assembly separately first. There were still some spots that needed a touch of filler but it was easier to get all the parts, especially the small hinged sid
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G'day Andrew, Thanks very much. I can't wait to get back and start painting, cheers, Pappy
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G'day Bastian, No idea sorry. If I had to guess about 6in and they were all the same size so the same replaceable part could be used on the wings, fin and stabs cheers, Pappy
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Waaay better!👍 Pappy
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yG'day people, I am back home and finally got some bench time in on this one. The join between the intake and lower fuselage had a slight step. It was not apparent when I test fitted these two assemblies but was definitely there once the glue had set. A quick brush of liquid putty and a rub back soon had things back on track Next the tedious task of masking off the canopy and 'zorst Just about ready for paint. In the meantime, I thought that I would reward myself with some decal application starting with the
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Nice work! This is how my cockpit turned out - I think it may be the same resin set. I left the HUD 'combiner' glass clear but painted the HUD lens a clear green colour (Incidentally, if you think it rude of me to add a picture of my build in your WIP I will happily remove it upon request, I meant no offence just to illustrate a point re the HUD) As mine will also be a HAF A-7H 'Alepou' I have modified the IFR probe to reflect the real aircraft. The spot where it normally would be had two strips of plastic glued over the opening to match pictur
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G'day Bastian, Sorry I don't but there is this new thing called the internet 🙂 If you have the Verlinden Lock-On book, have a gander at page 8 and the rear cover. Also the scale drawing included in the book. The wicks were black with yellow end tips. This was to warn and hopefully prevent people from grabbing them (why?) as apart from being fragile the end had two very sharp vertical barbs. Also they did not droop like some do, they were absolutely straight, If you can find some very fine carbon fibre filament works very well but be very careful using it, wear
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Steve is correct, it should be clear. When the HUD is operating, the HUD can appear green from some angles and I think some modellers may be attempting to simulate this or have misunderstood the picture (or they saw another modeller do this and have copied it) but the glass is clear. Sometimes you can see a 'prismatic' effect like that seen on camera lenses and there are clear self adhesive films that you can use to simulate this effect but for such a small item you need to decide if the bite is worth the chew, cheers, Pappy
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G'day Bastian, Love the attention to detail. Ref the static discharge wicks, note that the ones installed on the stabs are on opposite sides. i.e on the upper surface for the left stab and on the bottom for the right stab. This is because the stabs were symmetrical i.e not a left and right so the same stab could be fitted to either side but it was installed 'upside down' relative to its opposite counterpart. Hopefully this is not too late for you. Most people would not notice and most builders don't add the wicks but since you are, it would be a pity not to get it ri
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ES is ccorrect, the flap vanes need to taper in cord as they approach the wingtips. It seems to that the easiest (and cheapest!) fix would be to separate the individual flap vane segments and install these the correct way round as suggested by ES i.e with decreasing chord towards the wing tips rather than buying the SD resin wings. To me, the biggest selling feature of the HB kit should have been the deployed slats/flaps but HB screwed this up completely. Apart from the flap vane issue mentioned above, the other issue is that there are spring loaded panels on the underside of the
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The Reskit canopy is an improvement over the HB canopy but it is still not correct. The HB canopy has three errors, the major one being the slope of the windscreen, which should be a flat, descending angle in the side profile. HB have managed to make theirs curved giving it an upwards bulging appearance. Secondly, and you can see this in the comparison pictures above, HB have located the canopy bow too far forward which shortens the windscreen length in side profile. Notice the step between the cockpit bow and the fuselage side immediately below the windscreen which is slight