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Pappy121

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Posts posted by Pappy121

  1. G'day people,

     

    So 3 months on and still no replacement part. I have e-mailed Italeri's customer service (surely this is an oxymoron) again:

     

    "Message: Hello, I have been waiting for replacement part for my 1/48 H-21 for over three months. I cannot complete my kit because the kit canopy was warped beyond use. I first contacted your customer service department the 30 July 20. I was asked to provide pictures of the warped part which I have done. I have received an e-mail stating that the replacement part would be replaced as soon as possible but I do not think three months is as soon as possible. I also note that a similar think happened to another modeller (in the USA) with the same kit part and he has already received a replacement part, so I do not understand why I am still waiting for my replacement part"

     

    and again received a very quick reply:

     

    "Thank you for your message. We have taken care of your request. You will receive an answer within 10 days, except holiday time"

     

    I am not holding my breath

     

    Pappy

  2. G'day Jon,

     

    I only got the automated  response and nothing since despite some follow up e-mails.

    Not impressed so far

     

    The rest of the kit is okay and looks good on the sprue however once you start dry fitting bits together  it is not so great. My test fitting of the engine bay and aft fuselage bulkhead parts shows that the parts are underside. If you attach them to one fuselage half (as suggested in the instructions) they will not touch the other fuselage half as they are not wide enough. The cockpit is very simplified and it is a very visible area. Even if my canopy was not badly warped, the canopy framing is extremely wide in some parts when compared to pictures of the real thing, and none of the reviews or build ups I have read seem to pick up on that point.

     

    it seems incredible to say, but I think that their 1/72 scale offering is a better kit overall. It may not have the same level of engine details but it is adequate for the scale. In 1/48, a lot more is visible and doing the research for colours it is obvious that a lot more wiring and internal structure can to be added to make it realistic if you want to,

     

    cheers,

     

    Pappy

  3. 14 hours ago, jonbryon said:

    Thanks for this post; it has made me check my kit. Mine is the same. I am worried it's a design problem, rather than a moulding problem. The part can be bent to fit most of the way round, but not everywhere.

     

    I've submitted a request for a replacement part via their website. I'm not optimistic, but we shall see...

     

    Jon

    G'day Jon,

     

    I am sorry to hear that but that was the point of my post. Hopefully the problem is limited to just a small number of kits. I have not heard back beyond the automated reply, I hope you have a better result

     

    cheers,

     

    Pappy

  4. G'day Gator,

     

    I immediately contacted Italeri's customer service dept. and received a reply (automated) within 24hrs, however nothing since.

     

    My address and contact details were included and no spares have been forthcoming however, COVIFD19 may be a factor here, but still no reply about a spare part being sent or even an acknowledgement that there was an issue.

     

    I have also contacted the retailer who is also chasing a spare canopy for me, this may be the better option

  5. On 8/9/2020 at 12:43 AM, jager said:

    You might try the hot water, form and cold water immersion option to bring it back into alignment. But I don't think it would make the issue of too short to be solved.

    Jager

     

     

    G'day Jager,

     

    I think that it would be a very risky option and even if re-shaping worked I suspect that it will leave flow lines or stress marks in the material. Ordinarily this would be hidden by paint but not so in a clear part. I also find that the hot water method works quite well with resin but plastic tends to be , well more 'plastic' and develops a memory even after plunging into cold water.

     

    In any case I don't intend to make any effort to correct the part, instead  I expect the manufacturer/wholesaler/distributor  supply me with a correctly formed part as that is what I paid for, hopefully I am the only person with this problem but I wanted to let people know in case anyone else who has the same kit has the same issue

     

    cheers,

     

    Pappy

  6. G'day people,

     

    I was playing around with the main assemblies of this kit to determine if there would be any fit issues. Well I found one and boy, it's a biggie!

     

    It appears that my canopy part is badly warped. The lower section bulges outwards too much with the result that it is too wide for the fuselage and the part is too shallow vertically to allow the top of the canopy to to reach the upper fuselage.

     

    006(13).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=b


    003(19).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=b


    002(19).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=b


    001(19).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=b

     

    007(16).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=b


    005(15).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=b


    004(19).JPG?width=1920&height=1080&fit=b

     

    This throws out the  whole windscreen angle as well.

     

    It is like it has been squashed while the plastic was still cooling or something. I have sent off an e-mail to Italeri's customer help, hopefully I will get a reply soon.

     

    In the meantime, if you have this kit, it may pay to check your parts, hopefully I am the only unlucky one!

     

    cheers,

     

    Pappy

  7. G'day Steve and Gino,

     

    Thanks very much for the speedy response, that was extremely helpful. The silver looking line that rises vertically, is doesn' look like it is connected in the pic, is that correct/normal? Is this the same for both sides i.e. symmetrical?

     

    cheers,

     

    Pappy

  8. G'day people,

     

    A question regarding the auxilliary fuel bladders fitted to the rear cabin to extend range/duration.

     

    When these are installed, is there any additional piping visible between the bladders and the cabin?

     

    thanks in adavnce,

     

    Pappy

  9. On 1/28/2020 at 7:07 PM, ya-gabor said:

     

    Hi Ken,

     

    Sorry for a late reply but just seen your question about the seat version.

     

    In the Su-17M3 kit (№ 72047) the ejectionseat sprue is named O. It has parts ONLY for the K-36 DM Series 2 version of the seat. This is the later version with the smaller headbox used by most Russian fighters (Su-27 and MiG-29) apart from late Fitters.

     

    Looking at your sprue photos there is a difference for this version in the Geophisica kit. And yes, the seat you have built is the early version of the K-36DM seat.

     

    To make understandable the seat versions and naming.

      The earlier K-36 version was initially the K-36D then K-36DM versions. They had a bigger headbox which is easy to identify from the drop shaped reinforcements on the sides. Typical user of this seat is the Su-24 bomber aircraft apart from several other types.

      For the fighter aircrafts the designer NPP Zvezda (not the kit producer : ) ) reduced the headbox to ease for the pilots view over the shoulders. The reinforcement on the sides of the headbox is much smaller and of rectangular shape. This version is identified as K-36DM Seria 2.

     

    The Su-17/22 aircraft versions are interesting since both types of seats were used on them (just to make life easy for us modellers  : )  ) including the Sukhoy’s own designed KS-4 seats as a third version used on Fitters. The later seat is included in the Modelsvit Su-17 kit (№ 72011).

     

    Best regards

    Gabor

     G'day Gabor,

     

    Thank you very much for a great and usefel explanation,

     

    cheers,

     

    Pappy

  10. Wow! Impressive work Ken. It is looking really good.

     

    Did the kit supplied masks work well, do they fit and stick well?

     

    I am looking at my instructions and your kit and noticed that the destructions would have you install part of the nose gear mechanism (the 'Y' shaped bit and its hydraulic actuator) inside the nose gear  bay before installing the nose gear bay tub into the fuselage. I Think this would be very fiddly to install after the fuselage is all closed up but in your WIP it doesn't look like you followed that step.

    Have you already done this or do you have 'a cunning plan' ?

     

    cheers,

     

    Pappy

  11. G'day people,

     

    So I have been able to drag this one out of the cupboard of aimless destiny during the Chrissy break and managed to get a little more done with it.

     

    I have managed to get some paint of the inner wing/nacelle sections and the fuselage. The inner wing sections are only dry fitted in the pics below,

     

    020_zpsnm5fhqfh.jpg

     

    023_zpsvl84h5yt.jpg

     

    022_zpsd6aklkve.jpg

     

    021_zpsoiypi0n8.jpg

     

    The nacelles still need some more work and engine cowls were only temporarily attached using PVA glue to allow me to mask and paint the anti-glare sections,

     

    026_zpstxiujoht.jpg

     

    The cowlings have since been removed and I will work on getting the donks sorted next,

     

    cheers,

     

    Pappy

     

     

     

  12. G'day people,

     

    I have a question regarding the cabin floor of a Vietnam UH-1B or UH-1C. I know that some uses (RAAF for example) would add a thin protective plywood floor doubler over the cabin floor. There were circular cut-outs so the tie down points were still accessible.

     

    • Was this a common practice for US Army and Marine B/Cs?
    • If so, would anyone have a 1/48 floor plan with the tie down points? I plan on doing the venerable Monogram UH-1B (converted to a UH-1C using the CC resin set) with the M-5 'thump gun' installed. This will mean the moulded 'lump' of ammo tins will need to be removed and exposing a large area of the cabin floor.
    • Finally, does anyone know of a 1/48 decal producer that does markings for 1/48 UH-1Cs

     

    cheers,

     

    Pappy

     

     

  13. 14 hours ago, Flankerman said:

     

    The parts sprue for the ejection seat has two different head boxes - parts P1, P-16 & P17 as used here and parts P-22, P-9 & P-11 which I think are for a K-36DM.

     

    I must admit to putting the side panels on wrong - I had to prise them off and re-attach them further forward - hence the gaps.

     

    So, to try and answer your question Pappy - yes, the M-55 uses the earlier style K-36 - at least that's what the instructions indicate (I think?)

     

    Are the same sprues used in Modelsvit's later Su-17M3/M4 kits ?? Anyone??

     

    Ken

     

    G'day Ken,

     

    Cheers, that helps a lot. Unfortunately I cannot help you with your Su-17M3>M4 question but I am sure someone will supply an answer shortly,

     

    cheers,

     

    Pappy

  14. G'day Ken,

     

    Stellar work!

    Does the M-55s  variant of the K-36 differ much from other fighter versions (K-36DM?), because the sides of the headbox look to extend forwards a little more than is typical for a K-36?

    I have this kit coming from Crimbo (that is the rumor anyways) and I think I will swap the kit seat out for an aftermarket item unless it is 'unique'

     

    cheers,

     

    Pappy

  15. Thanks very much Seawinder and everyone else who contributed, 4 scale inches it is.

     

    I have been wading through several fora discussions on the subject of wheel well colours and door positions. It is a minefield with lots of contradictory opinions and evidence.

     

    My take on it is that the inner oors would normally be closed immediately after engine shut down as they only opened as the gear was cycled. Once the engine was shut down (and the engine driven hydraulic pump was no longer supplying pressure to the system), these doors would sag open, however the rate was dependent uponthe serviceability of the hyd system, so this may have been rapid or slow, but eventually they would sag. Of course, maintenance crews could also manually unlock the doors and open them for inspections and maintenance as well, so the answer is anything between fully up and fully open would be correct, but it would be typical for them to be closed immediately after shut down.

     

    Most people show them open as:

    • They wish to show off the kit details
    • They don't have to bother with getting the doors to fit
    •  The kit parts are engineered that way and perhaps the modeller doesn't know any different

    Now each modeller is entitled to build their kit how they want. There is also the issue of the wing panel lines being evident on most kits instead of being filled and doped which iwas normal (there are obvoiusly exceptions but this is how they came from the factory) but also ignorred by many modellers, personally I think this is  greater innacuracy but again, each person has the right to build as they choose, but if they cite accuracy as a driver, then that is a criteria that should also be considered,

     

    cheers,

     

    Pappy

  16. G'day people,

     

    I have a newbie question regarding the yellow painted portion of the propeller tips of P-51 Mustangs.

     

    Was there a standard distance for this yellow portion, i.e. 2" for example?

     

    cheers,

     

    Pappy

  17. 18 hours ago, Winnie said:

    The hatches in the floor are for sling load use, the loadmaster has a much better periferal view using the regular side doors, unless carrying said sling load needing to place it accurately. Also a massive hazard if there is an open hatch in the floor...

     

    Cheers

    Harald

     G'day Harald,

     

    Thanks very much, but do the floor hatches open upwards or downwards when used?

     

    cheers,

     

    Pappy

  18. 20 hours ago, andyf117 said:

    Can't help with your specific question, but thought this walk-around page with approx 200 pics might be useful:

    https://www.net-maquettes.com/pictures/eurocopter-as532-cougar-walk/

     

    G'day Andy,

     

    Thanks very much for the link. I had actually already picked over these  pictures and while there is a wealth of detail on offer, none of them were able to answer my question so unfortunately I am still looking for an answer,

     

    cheers,

     

    Pappy

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