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lesthegringo

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  1. For those tiny tiny resin parts, especially those thin ones like pipes attached to the pour block at multiple locations, the most successful way of separating them without breaking them is to heat a scalpel blade and use that to cut. It glides through without having to use force, and so doesn't bend it Hope that helps Les
  2. It's the only stuff available locally (Hungary) and the data sheet says polystyrene. I'll have to see if I can get a lacquer based paint here, not sure where though. It used to be common for cars but they changed that years ago Cheers Les
  3. Gents / Ladies, this is actually non-modelling for a change, but as the material and technique probably can be read across I thought I'd try and see if you guys can give any hints. Anyone who has had paint lifting after masking will probably have gone through this! I am trying to make switch fascia panels for the flight sim rig that I have built, and want to use clear 2mm polystyrene sheet that is available locally made by a company called Gutta. The intention is to coat the front of the sheet with a black coating, then CNC engrave the switch names and fascia details onto the front, revealing the clear substrate so that I can illuminate it from the back with LED's. I have everything working fine except for the fact that the spray can acrylic lacquer based paint I have used just flakes off during the engraving. I have sanded the surface to give it a key, didn't work. I then tried spraying lacquer thinners onto the face after sanding the surface first (it does dissolve the surface, I checked on a test piece) then sprayed the paint onto the still slightly sticky surface, but it still flakes away.. So what I need is either a paint that aggressively grips or etches onto the surface or some other way of covering the face of the sheet. Any suggestions from you good folks? Cheers Les
  4. Nope, wasn't aware - being non US based means my searches don't necessarily find stuff in certain areas, especially if (and please don't think this is a criticism ) it generally pertains to UK aircraft and their peculiarities. It tends to be a small market! Thanks for making us aware! Les
  5. I thought about this a while back and feel that it is something that companies like HGW could pick up on. If you have used their carrier film free decals (rivets, stencils and the like) you can see how it would be possible for them to come up with a similar decal that (with a bit of fiddling, admittedly, especially in the smaller scales) you could apply to the inside of the cockpit transparency to replicate the MDC's used in a lot of the British jets. It could also be used for heating wires or other details that are often found on the transparencies but are nigh on impossible to replicate by the average modeller. Traditional decals with their carrier film simply doesn't look right, and are tough to apply anyway, as they are necessarily skinny little decals that you have to tease into position, but the beauty of the HGW stencil type decals is that the decal is held in shape by the backing that you subsequently remove when dry. I've tried to use the photo-etch ones that the likes of Eduard produce (actually successfully for a change on my Hasegawa Harrier) but it doesn't look right and I'm pretty certain that over time it will come way as it is just held in place by Future, the only way to do so without fogging the rest of the canopy. Maybe I'm expecting too much of these types of decals but it certainly feels like there should be some way to use them like this Cheers Les
  6. Totally agree, I have the DCS A-10 C 'game' for the PC, and have set up the PC with a Thrustmaster HOTAS and Warthog stick, with a 20cm extension, and Saitek pedals. There is no 'game' about it, it's a stunning program that really makes you feel like you are flying the plane. If I may be so bold as to make a further suggestion, the use of a TrackIR unit enhances the experience, once set up properly Cheers Les
  7. Yes, I used the 1/48th splinter pattern set for the Eduard MiG 21. I have to confess to having been nervous about it as it is an insanely complicated scheme, and requires the decals to be split into lots and lots of smaller decals. Despite the apparent complexity, the only problems I had were of my own making. If you take your time and use microsol and microset they go down great. If you gloss coat first, there is no silvering to be seen at all. I also now would recommend starting with those deacalscwhere they are two that meet at a wing root, so tgat you set the datum in the right place Hope this helps Les
  8. Looks like we are edging closer to this now, take a look at Eduard's latest pre-printed instrument panels. https://www.eduard.com/store/eduard/spitfire-mk-ix-late-löök-1-48.html?listtype=search&searchparam=look I am not going to judge anyone on their choices for how they do their modelling, when something like this comes out I can see the benefit. For me, the bete noir is the bang seats; if someone comes out with pre-painted resin ones, you can definitely count me in. Les
  9. Guys, if there is anyone out there in Hungary that can help out a struggling expat, I would appreciate your assistance! Essentially I want to buy some hot lacquer thinners (cellulose thinners in the UK) that I can use to clean stuff and occasionally use as thinners. There are two stores (Obi and Praktiker) that have an array of different thinners but I have no way of telling which they are. Can you advise? I also want some lacquer based paint, as opposed to enamels or acrylics. I need them to be able to set hard and be sandable relatively fast, which enamels and acrylics don't. I only need grey and black, any recommendations of brands would be appreciated. Lastly, where can I get polester resin two part filler (Bondo, Holts P38, that type of thing)? Obi, Praktiker, Auchan and Tesco all have 'car' sections but none sell this (very surprising considering the way that they drive!) Thanks in advance guys! Les
  10. Picked up one of the Hobbyboss A-6E kits, very very nice. But (there's always a but) why, with a huge range of paints available and US Navy / Grumman aircraft being common do they insist on the cockpit colour being a 1:1 mix of Gunze C117 and white? Surely there is an out of the pot colour that serves that closely enough with all the tones, shades and varieties of greys out there, not least from the Gunze range? What can I use from the Humbrol / Gunze / Tamiya / Revell range, I have a lot of them and don't want to mess around mixing paints Cheers Les
  11. Talc powder works perfectly and is easily and cheaply available in most supermarkets (baby powder), so unless the acrylic dental power has some special property I don't think it is worth the expense - am I missing something? Try the talc method first, you've nothing to lose Cheers Les
  12. Ok, didn't get the UV connection. Not going to ask about nail polish, I thought it was UV that yellowed decals?
  13. Clearly this old fart doesn't understand why women need a lamp for their nails! Having said that, my wife doesn't understand why I need fifteen different types of pliers and cutters when she thinks they all look the same
  14. The 'old fart' mob want to know what a nail lamp is.... Cheers Les
  15. Replica Models in Hungary carry it, if that's of any use to anyone! Cheers Les
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