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About lesthegringo

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  1. Gents, my wallet has respectfully asked that you stop posting such temptations! They all look really great, and I have to confess that even as a dyed-in-the-wool aircraft modeller, this AFV lark is seriously addictive stuff. The Meng MkV is an utterly fabulous kit, and has seriously changed the way that I do modelling. However, I am still approaching it like an aircraft model in some respects, with (I think) over complicated painting and masking techniques and obsessively painting stuff that will not be visible. Maybe I have to practice on a few more kits...... like the ones mentioned above.... Les
  2. A combination of toothpicks, blu-tac and tape finally got it out, but I am starting to wonder if the stuff I was using has passed it's sell by date, and so is becoming more difficult to remove. Anyway, thanks again to all those who replied to this! Cheers Les
  3. Thanks, will give that a go! Les
  4. Gents, pretty self explanatory question, used rubber ammonia based masking solution, now the damned stuff doesn't want to come off! Any suggestions? Cheers Les
  5. That Takom Tiger kit looks fantastic, thanks for the video! My son kept on talking about the Meng Mk.V kit we had seen at the LHS, even though they had the Takom Tiger too, so we went and got the Mk.V. Looking through the instructions there are loads of hatches that can be left open, plus someone put me on to AFV Modeller issue 88 where they have a diorama of a Mk.V under construction on the build line. That settled that, we can legitimately leave parts open! Depending on how we get on with it, we may go and get that Tiger later on. As for the MiniArt SU-122, an online build we found tends to indicate that radical surgery would be the only way to display the interior in any meaningful way, so that one will be dropped from the list. Now, we have the Meng Mk.V, which we would like to do in the colours of the one in Bovingdon (which for us is conveniently located on the other side of the world). Meng have chosen Vallejo colour callouts, so can we have Mr Color, humbrol, model master or Tamiya equivalents for 70.876 brown sand 71.012 dark green 71.015 olive brown Thanks for all your help Les
  6. Thanks, will check that out Cheers Les
  7. Thanks, Murad - my son seems to like the Russian tanks too, will check that out! Cheers Les
  8. Guys, I have managed to get my teenage son into modelling, which seems to be quite a victory these days. He's taken to it really well once I realised he didn't share his dad's passion for aircraft and let him build AFV's. I'm very pleased with what he does and want to encourage him to continue, not least because it keeps him away from the dreaded Xbox for a while! However he wants me to build something with him, which is great, but he wants a tank which is not my thing. He has been showing me reviews of lots of models and builds to try and get my enthusiasm for one of them, and three caught my eye, all of which have full interiors. The extra detail interests me but from what I can see once you finish the build, it is all hidden inside and so looks like, well, just another tank from the outside. Aircraft have access panels, open cockpits, bomb bays, engine cowlings etc so that you can show it all off, but I'm struggling to see, aside from some (necessarily) tiny access hatches, what can be done on these vehicles. I am not a fan of the 'cut a big hole and paint the edge red' display method, and I am certainly not one of those modellers who is happy because he knows it's all in there even if you can't see it. So if you kind people can share any advice we would love to hear it. The three kits that attracted my attention are (all 1/35) Meng British Heavy Tank MK.V Takom King Tiger Miniart SU-122 All are fairly expensive models (at least over here in Australia) so I would prefer not to have to go for aftermarket, however if that was to aid displaying the interiors, it would be good to know about it. Cheers for looking Les
  9. Yes, you put a little pile of talc onto abit of paper or aluminium foil, then drip CA onto it. You then mix it with a toothpick or similar until you ger the consistency you want then apply it to the joint. The more talc, the easier it is to sand, but it is not as strong. Within two minutes of mixing it will be cured and hardened, so use small amounts at a time and if you want use tape on either side of joints to reduce the amount of sanding. Also, while it is curing it will gel, and you can use a knife to cut any excess away. Hope this helps Les
  10. Talc and CA for me, nothing else comes close. Mixed right it never shrinks, dries (cures, actually) fast and is easy to sand, plus it scribes well and holds a sharp edge Cheers Les
  11. Lee, apologies for the late reply, it is the A6M2 boxing 61016 Thanks for looking Les
  12. I've been prepping Eduard's nice F-4B/C exhaust set for painting, and looking at reference pictures I get the impression that the perforated inner barrel of the thrust augmentor tube has a greenish tinge to it. Not having a handy F-4 in my garden, I can't cross check it, so would like to know if that is just a photographic illusion or whether (like some of the Russian engines) that is a resistant coating on the metal. Most pictures do show the typical combustor products brown and light grey streaking, but there are enough of them that have the greenish tinge to make me hesitate Cheers Les
  13. Whatever they are called, too much trouble! A knock on question - I heard somewhere that the slotted tailplanes are incorrect, in that the slot mounting points are perpendicular to the leading edge, whereas they should be parallel to the aircraft long axis? Les
  14. Thanks for confirming. I suspect that I'll not go to the trouble of dropping the slats though, I do enough stupid stuff to slow my builds down! Cheers Les