lesthegringo

A quick update on this I visited Craftec Hobbies near Windsor in CT. They didn't have what I wanted, but they have a load of older models and brands that I have not seen for literally 30 or 40 years Matchbox and Frog were two that stood out (1/32 Westland Lysander anyone?), plus older airfix, dragon, AML, some AFV stuff, a whole slew of lesser brands in various scales. If you are looking for an older kit, give them a call as you may get lucky Time Machine Hobby in Manchester are also good, with a good assortment of more modern stuff (including the new 1/48th

Thanks guys - don't mind a drive, I'll map those out! Les

Hi all I will be visiting the US soon for work purposes, and would like to take advantage of that visit to get some supplies and maybe even kits while there, as I cannot get anything where I live. Amazon doesn't deliver a lot of things here either. Can you let me know what model stores within an hour or so's radius of Manchester (driving) are worth visiting? I have two full weekends free so time isn't an issue and will have a car. I would like to be able to pick up an Airfix 1/48th Gannet or Jaguar, so any stores you know that stock Airfix stuff is welcome, as are store

I took a look at those Uschi masks, and they looked a good idea. However in the current climate it is difficult to get stuff from outside of Hungary, so I wondered if I could make something similar. I got some clip art pictures of raindrops, and random blotches, rust, tiger stripes, that sort of thing from the internet, then using a combination of an old version of Photoshop and Inkscape, was able to come up with some .svg files I can use on my laser cutter to make some similar ones. I tried thin styrene sheet first, but although it worked, it warped due to the heat plus the plastic t

I have Humbrol, Revell, Model Master and Tamiya enamels, Gunze solvent based lacquers and Gunze and Tamiya water based acrylics. Each has a place on my bench, but my general order pf preference is 1st place - Gunze Lacquers. Great coverage, fast drying, generally very easy to thin and spray, and tolerant of handling, plus generally sticks well even without primer. One big advantage is that the leveling thinners can be added to the jar without adverse effects to the paint, which has the collateral benefit that assuming it is just the original colour, you can sluice out t

Gunze PS770, great airbrush Cheers Les

Hi all, I have successfully used the salt weathering technique on a few models now, but my experience of it is that in my hands it is only any good for pretty extreme weathering. The reason for this is that it leaves the remaining top coat rough due to little bits and traces of salt getting trapped under the top coat. This means where I want significant leading edge erosion and chipping, but still want good paint on the rest of the wing, I lose a lot of the value of the method as it becomes less random. You essentially have to paint on the water, and then apply the salt specifical

Hi all, I am trying to use the HGW wood effect sheet decals for an Eduard 1/48 Nieuport prop. I've used the decals before on a Meng MKV tank interior, and the the effect is pretty good, but in that case it was all flat surfaces. Now I am trying to get it to wrap around the prop contours, and am struggling. There are a couple of factors at work here. Firstly, they are super thin, and as a result are very fragile. Secondly, the backing water based adhesive is really poor, to the point where the decal will release from the backing sheet if handled incorrectly. Thirdly, the decals do n

For those tiny tiny resin parts, especially those thin ones like pipes attached to the pour block at multiple locations, the most successful way of separating them without breaking them is to heat a scalpel blade and use that to cut. It glides through without having to use force, and so doesn't bend it Hope that helps Les

It's the only stuff available locally (Hungary) and the data sheet says polystyrene. I'll have to see if I can get a lacquer based paint here, not sure where though. It used to be common for cars but they changed that years ago Cheers Les

Gents / Ladies, this is actually non-modelling for a change, but as the material and technique probably can be read across I thought I'd try and see if you guys can give any hints. Anyone who has had paint lifting after masking will probably have gone through this! I am trying to make switch fascia panels for the flight sim rig that I have built, and want to use clear 2mm polystyrene sheet that is available locally made by a company called Gutta. The intention is to coat the front of the sheet with a black coating, then CNC engrave the switch names and fascia details onto the fron

Nope, wasn't aware - being non US based means my searches don't necessarily find stuff in certain areas, especially if (and please don't think this is a criticism ) it generally pertains to UK aircraft and their peculiarities. It tends to be a small market! Thanks for making us aware! Les

I thought about this a while back and feel that it is something that companies like HGW could pick up on. If you have used their carrier film free decals (rivets, stencils and the like) you can see how it would be possible for them to come up with a similar decal that (with a bit of fiddling, admittedly, especially in the smaller scales) you could apply to the inside of the cockpit transparency to replicate the MDC's used in a lot of the British jets. It could also be used for heating wires or other details that are often found on the transparencies but are nigh on impossible to replicate by

Totally agree, I have the DCS A-10 C 'game' for the PC, and have set up the PC with a Thrustmaster HOTAS and Warthog stick, with a 20cm extension, and Saitek pedals. There is no 'game' about it, it's a stunning program that really makes you feel like you are flying the plane. If I may be so bold as to make a further suggestion, the use of a TrackIR unit enhances the experience, once set up properly Cheers Les

Yes, I used the 1/48th splinter pattern set for the Eduard MiG 21. I have to confess to having been nervous about it as it is an insanely complicated scheme, and requires the decals to be split into lots and lots of smaller decals. Despite the apparent complexity, the only problems I had were of my own making. If you take your time and use microsol and microset they go down great. If you gloss coat first, there is no silvering to be seen at all. I also now would recommend starting with those deacalscwhere they are two that meet at a wing root, so tgat you set the datum in the right