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About lesthegringo

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  1. Masking Putty

    Pep, are we allowed to ask how come you were in possession of the body paint in the first place......?! As for using elmers glue, for the colouring, you may want to put some watercolour paint rather than food colouring, as the newer food colourings can stain, especially when used with acrylics. Essentially it is just something to help you see where you put it Les
  2. Removing adhesive residue without stripping paint.

    I had a similar problem withmasking tape adhesive residue after using 3M masking tape. The issue was that I had left the tape on for too long, it was during an international house move so the packed up part finished models were in a hot shipping container for a couple of months. As a result the adhesive dried on, so when the tape was removed it left behind all the dried adhesive layer. In that instance I used a scalpel to carefully scrape it off, but would like to know if anyone else has got a better method for removing dried masking tape adhesive Cheers Les
  3. Kinetic Su-33 on-line manual

    SU-25 and a good A-10 gets my vote Les
  4. Best brushable mask?

    Just recently i've started using white glue like the ones used in schools. I put a little food colouring in it to help see where it is. The advantage is that it is water based (I predominantly use lacquers and enamels) and it forms a nice skin. I use wooden cocktail sticks to get it into corners, and you can thin it to brush over larger areas. On cockpit parts it can be trimmed with a sharp scalpel if needed, and once you have painted it can be peeled off. If needed, you can soak with water and remove any residue with a cotton swab. It's a lot cheaper too, plus no ammonia smell. If you use acrylics, you need to test it if you want to apply it over existing paint Cheers

    I do use acrylics, but would prefer a lacqer or enamel based paint to come out, as I've had acrylics bleed colour when using other wash and decal set products after. The batch of paint I mixed up from Gunze acrylics did exactly that and boy is that a bad colour to have bleeed onto exterior surfaces! Les

    I'm very surprised that the paint companies have not come out with something; Gunze could work with Eduard to have a match...... you would have thought. I mixed my own, which matches Eduards stuff, but am amazed at the lack of interest from companies that you would imagine would leap at this sort of thing Les
  7. Modelling necessities... on the cheap!

    Get a load of cheap tie wraps, cheapo super glue and wet or dry paper in varying grit sizes. Cut the abrasive paper into strips and super glue onto the tie wraps - instant flexible files. Alternatively a load of lolly (popsicle) sticks from a hobby shop (they sell them in packs of 50), some 3m foam type double sided tape, and use that to attach the abrasive paper onto the sticks, that works as good foam backed abrasives. You can cut them into shapes to suit For very small drills, evilbay has lots of 3D printer extruder nozzle cleaning 'drills' that come in packs of five or ten. They have a 3mm / 1/8" shank, and go from 1.2 mm down to 0.2mm. They are great for drilling small holes as they don't need a pin vice to hold them due to the shank, and they are way better that those cheap micro drill sets Cheers Les
  8. Really stubborn old paint, what to use to remove it

    Guys, to confirm, the non-caustic oven cleaner did the trick, I now have a pristine looking airbrush again Thanks again for all the input Les
  9. Really stubborn old paint, what to use to remove it

    Actually the stuff we have makes a point of being non-caustic, and it does seem to have worked. I'm still leaving it a bit longer for the bits in the tucked away corners, but I have made great in-roads. Certainly worth remembering! Cheers
  10. Really stubborn old paint, what to use to remove it

    if the oven cleaner doesn't work, I'll get some brake fluid Cheers
  11. Display Cabinet Ideas

    It looks like the shelves are not in a fixed height, so potentially more shelves could be added to one unit - that would be better than the Ikea ones. Looking on the site, the sizes are virtually identical though, which is a shame; I could do with units maybe 5cm wider, that's all it would take to make them a whole lot better for the 1/48th scale aircraft I'm building. If only Ikea would make the Detolf units a bit wider *sigh* As an aside, they are also white, whereas the seven Detolf cabinets I have are black, but that's nothing that can't be fixed with a quick spray! Cheers Les
  12. Really stubborn old paint, what to use to remove it

    Thanks guys - on the basis we already have oven cleaner, I'll try that first Cheers Les
  13. Display Cabinet Ideas

    Are those the same size as the Ikea ones? Cheers Les
  14. I have an old (30 year old) Devilbiss Aerograph Super 63 airbrush that my dad unearthed in a cupboard at his house. I used to do fantasy artwork on leather jackets and the like, and I bought it to do the really fine work. It was a fantastic bit of kit but during cleaning one day I ended up losing the nozzle, and being short of cash at the time I just put it back in the box and forgot about it. Of course being young and stupid, I didn't clean it before putting it away and so now, the 30 year old Humbrol enamel paint I used to use has welded itself to the main body of the airbrush. I have left the disassembled airbrush in lacquer thinners for a couple of days now, and as a testament to the old Humbrol paints quality, it hasn't made a dent. So, what can I use to soften this stuff up without ruining the airbrush? Les
  15. Some questions on salt weathering technique

    Thanks, will try that Les