lesthegringo

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About lesthegringo

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  1. Over a year on, and I'm happy to say that finally I have finished this The full WIP is on the Britmodeller site if you are interested in this rather masochistic model! Les
  2. interesting, did it etch the surface? Les
  3. Thanks. I have some Gators grip somewhere, will have to use that for this - I always avoided it as I was not convinced it would cure / dry in the middle of larger areas Another thought was maybe an epoxy, the slow cure types; I remember the lab guys at work explaining that the slow cure types are always better for applications where a bit of give is good as they are slightly flexible when fully cured, as opposed to fast cure types that embrittle. The fan track and ice impact linings on the engines are now held in using polysulphide epoxies to stop them detaching, and we always cure the blue filler cold and slow where possible as it is tougher and less brittle. Looks like I should have used my memory a bit more Cheers Les
  4. I do try, but the issue is you can't remove all the CA from the kit parts due to the geometry - there is always some bits left Les
  5. Guys, my love / hate relationship with PE is well documented on these pages, but I have persisted in using them in certain places because of the clear benefits they can bring in detail. However something that continues to occasionally frustrate me is getting the damned things to stick, and bizarrely the ones I have most difficulty with can be the ones that theoretically should be the easiest to deal with. A great case in point is the cockpit sill surround on the Hasegawa F-!4A, and Eduards PE replacement. I have now had to re-attach it four or five times, as it pulls off with the absolute minimum of handling. It is a part that has a large, flat, constant gluing area, it is not a pre-printed part. I deliberately do not paint the kit mating parts, and I apply a layer of medium viscosity CA, then lay the PE over it. I use the release paper that comes with double sided tape, plus tape to hold down the part while it cures. So, large flat area, not in an exposed area where it can be easily knocked off, no attaching parts to complicate things. Easy, right? Wrong. Even using low tack masking tape, when masking off the cockpit sills for painting, off comes the tape complete with the PE. So I reattach, after scraping the PE clean of the PE and trying to do the same on the now more considerably more complicated cockpit sill area. Strangely, the remaining CA does not want to come off the PE nor the cockpit parts, so it baffles me that it didn't want to stick together. By the way, I have tried Loctite, Bob Smith industries, Zap and various unbranded cheapo shop CA's, so it isn't an issue with the CA, although there have been a few cases where it seems that the CA did not want to adhere to the PE parts. But, the re-attached part is more prone to debonding, and with each progressive release gets worse. I now am unable to get it to lay flat on the area, and the unsightly gap between it and the edge of the cockpit has me now thinking that I will remove it and close up the cockpit in order to hide it, rendering all the cockpit work null. In contrast, I have sailed through putting on the myriad of wing and fuselage mounted vortex generators, landing gear cover brackets, HUD parts, external grilles and chaff dispenser type objects, all with no issue. Some get knocked off when fumble fingers here does something exceptionally stupid, and you actually feel that there has been a lot of force resulting in the part coming away. Also, masking doesn't seem to pull them off. So it must be me and my technique. I lightly abrade the PE so that it has a surface that the CA can key to, but would like to know any tips, or receive any advice that can help me. Cheers Les
  6. A mix of CA and talc can make non-shrink sandable filler that cures in less than a minute and can be sanded immediately after. I stopped buying putty after starting to use talc and CA, and in fact all my putty went in the bin a while back. If you have to do large fills or areas, either milliput, styrene stock or car epoxy fillers would be my recommendation Hope this helps Les
  7. There are certain colours that get used a lot, black, white, greys, plus the more standard camouflage colours that I also think that we should be able to get in reasonable size containers. However we are essentially raped by the paint suppliers because they know that they can get away with AUS $450 a litre for the small jars based on a 10ml jar of Gunze costing over AUS $4.50 To think, I used to criticise my wife for paying exorbitant prices for little jars of makeup and perfume! I'm all for being able to get some, if not all paints in more economical quantities Les
  8. Thanks. Another (maybe daft) question is whether to apply the decals before or after; if they are applied after they may be too bright and clean, but if applied before they can be damaged by the process. Having had decals suffer damage due to their adhesion not being up to any even light abrasion, I'm interested in how people get around it Cheers
  9. Guys, I've been experimenting with the salt weathering method to acheive chipping and blotchy paintwork. However the results I'm getting are not quite what I expected. While the weathering effects are undoubtedly good, the surface finish of the paint is rough and it's clear that some finer particles of salt are getting trapped by the paint. When you wash away the excess, it does not remove the tiny salt particles unless you abrade the surface, which has an adverse effect on the final paint finish. I understand that for blotchy paint, you are looking at simply putting on a fine filter of lightened or darkened paint so it would be misted very lightly. However for chipped paint, over a bare metal and/or primer substrate the top coat has to go on sufficiently thick to actually cover the surface with the top coat colour. It's here that I don’t seem to be able to avoid the poor surface finish due to the trapped particles of salt. Clearly my technique leaves something to be desired, and I would appreciate any help or hints in identifying where I am going wrong. Cheers Les
  10. Decals on fine, do you just want the stripes or do you want the lightning bolt too? PM me with the address to send to Les
  11. I thought it was the UV light in sunlight that causes yellowing, certainly that's the case with white or clear paints in the past Les
  12. groan......!
  13. Looks like you are in luck - I stuffed up the port outer one. I still have to apply the inner one, but I have two of them so there should be no problem sending you the spare, assuming nothing goes wrong! the problem I had was not due to any issue with the decals, some thinner dropped onto the part after the decal was applied and ruined the paint and decal, so I had no option but to strip it back to the plastic. For info the best colour match that I have for the yellow on the CAM decals is Tamiya XF-3 - if you want to check yours to see that they are similar it might help. I will apply the decal this week and PM you for the address once I am sure it is spare Les
  14. Which part do you need? I had to buy a second CAM decals sheet 48-028 which includes those as I had a disaster with one of the vertical stabiliser decals. If you don't need all of them, I may have some parts of the sheet I don't need Les
  15. I strongly suspect some previous experience has shaped those thoughts Phantom!