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Everything posted by lesthegringo

  1. I took a look at those Uschi masks, and they looked a good idea. However in the current climate it is difficult to get stuff from outside of Hungary, so I wondered if I could make something similar. I got some clip art pictures of raindrops, and random blotches, rust, tiger stripes, that sort of thing from the internet, then using a combination of an old version of Photoshop and Inkscape, was able to come up with some .svg files I can use on my laser cutter to make some similar ones. I tried thin styrene sheet first, but although it worked, it warped due to the heat plus the plastic t
  2. I have Humbrol, Revell, Model Master and Tamiya enamels, Gunze solvent based lacquers and Gunze and Tamiya water based acrylics. Each has a place on my bench, but my general order pf preference is 1st place - Gunze Lacquers. Great coverage, fast drying, generally very easy to thin and spray, and tolerant of handling, plus generally sticks well even without primer. One big advantage is that the leveling thinners can be added to the jar without adverse effects to the paint, which has the collateral benefit that assuming it is just the original colour, you can sluice out t
  3. Hi all, I have successfully used the salt weathering technique on a few models now, but my experience of it is that in my hands it is only any good for pretty extreme weathering. The reason for this is that it leaves the remaining top coat rough due to little bits and traces of salt getting trapped under the top coat. This means where I want significant leading edge erosion and chipping, but still want good paint on the rest of the wing, I lose a lot of the value of the method as it becomes less random. You essentially have to paint on the water, and then apply the salt specifical
  4. Hi all, I am trying to use the HGW wood effect sheet decals for an Eduard 1/48 Nieuport prop. I've used the decals before on a Meng MKV tank interior, and the the effect is pretty good, but in that case it was all flat surfaces. Now I am trying to get it to wrap around the prop contours, and am struggling. There are a couple of factors at work here. Firstly, they are super thin, and as a result are very fragile. Secondly, the backing water based adhesive is really poor, to the point where the decal will release from the backing sheet if handled incorrectly. Thirdly, the decals do n
  5. For those tiny tiny resin parts, especially those thin ones like pipes attached to the pour block at multiple locations, the most successful way of separating them without breaking them is to heat a scalpel blade and use that to cut. It glides through without having to use force, and so doesn't bend it Hope that helps Les
  6. It's the only stuff available locally (Hungary) and the data sheet says polystyrene. I'll have to see if I can get a lacquer based paint here, not sure where though. It used to be common for cars but they changed that years ago Cheers Les
  7. Gents / Ladies, this is actually non-modelling for a change, but as the material and technique probably can be read across I thought I'd try and see if you guys can give any hints. Anyone who has had paint lifting after masking will probably have gone through this! I am trying to make switch fascia panels for the flight sim rig that I have built, and want to use clear 2mm polystyrene sheet that is available locally made by a company called Gutta. The intention is to coat the front of the sheet with a black coating, then CNC engrave the switch names and fascia details onto the fron
  8. Nope, wasn't aware - being non US based means my searches don't necessarily find stuff in certain areas, especially if (and please don't think this is a criticism ) it generally pertains to UK aircraft and their peculiarities. It tends to be a small market! Thanks for making us aware! Les
  9. I thought about this a while back and feel that it is something that companies like HGW could pick up on. If you have used their carrier film free decals (rivets, stencils and the like) you can see how it would be possible for them to come up with a similar decal that (with a bit of fiddling, admittedly, especially in the smaller scales) you could apply to the inside of the cockpit transparency to replicate the MDC's used in a lot of the British jets. It could also be used for heating wires or other details that are often found on the transparencies but are nigh on impossible to replicate by
  10. Totally agree, I have the DCS A-10 C 'game' for the PC, and have set up the PC with a Thrustmaster HOTAS and Warthog stick, with a 20cm extension, and Saitek pedals. There is no 'game' about it, it's a stunning program that really makes you feel like you are flying the plane. If I may be so bold as to make a further suggestion, the use of a TrackIR unit enhances the experience, once set up properly Cheers Les
  11. Yes, I used the 1/48th splinter pattern set for the Eduard MiG 21. I have to confess to having been nervous about it as it is an insanely complicated scheme, and requires the decals to be split into lots and lots of smaller decals. Despite the apparent complexity, the only problems I had were of my own making. If you take your time and use microsol and microset they go down great. If you gloss coat first, there is no silvering to be seen at all. I also now would recommend starting with those deacalscwhere they are two that meet at a wing root, so tgat you set the datum in the right
  12. Looks like we are edging closer to this now, take a look at Eduard's latest pre-printed instrument panels. https://www.eduard.com/store/eduard/spitfire-mk-ix-late-löök-1-48.html?listtype=search&searchparam=look I am not going to judge anyone on their choices for how they do their modelling, when something like this comes out I can see the benefit. For me, the bete noir is the bang seats; if someone comes out with pre-painted resin ones, you can definitely count me in. Les
  13. Guys, if there is anyone out there in Hungary that can help out a struggling expat, I would appreciate your assistance! Essentially I want to buy some hot lacquer thinners (cellulose thinners in the UK) that I can use to clean stuff and occasionally use as thinners. There are two stores (Obi and Praktiker) that have an array of different thinners but I have no way of telling which they are. Can you advise? I also want some lacquer based paint, as opposed to enamels or acrylics. I need them to be able to set hard and be sandable relatively fast, which enamels and acrylic
  14. Picked up one of the Hobbyboss A-6E kits, very very nice. But (there's always a but) why, with a huge range of paints available and US Navy / Grumman aircraft being common do they insist on the cockpit colour being a 1:1 mix of Gunze C117 and white? Surely there is an out of the pot colour that serves that closely enough with all the tones, shades and varieties of greys out there, not least from the Gunze range? What can I use from the Humbrol / Gunze / Tamiya / Revell range, I have a lot of them and don't want to mess around mixing paints Cheers
  15. Talc powder works perfectly and is easily and cheaply available in most supermarkets (baby powder), so unless the acrylic dental power has some special property I don't think it is worth the expense - am I missing something? Try the talc method first, you've nothing to lose Cheers Les
  16. Ok, didn't get the UV connection. Not going to ask about nail polish, I thought it was UV that yellowed decals?
  17. Clearly this old fart doesn't understand why women need a lamp for their nails! Having said that, my wife doesn't understand why I need fifteen different types of pliers and cutters when she thinks they all look the same
  18. The 'old fart' mob want to know what a nail lamp is.... Cheers Les
  19. Replica Models in Hungary carry it, if that's of any use to anyone! Cheers Les
  20. Ok, looks like I was well behind the times - I have only ever been aware of the 'normal' one. No wonder I was not aware of any press releases! Thanks for that, will be much more informed going forward Cheers Les
  21. Gents, just purchased a new bottle of Tamiya extra thin, and immediately I noticed that it smelled and acted differently. It is super super quick to soak in and / or evaporate, in fact so quick that you cannot wet a surface then apply a part to it like you use to do with the 'old' version - you have to apply it to the parts when they are in contact. If you do it really bonds fast, but it definitely is different. It would be wrong to say I prefer one over the other, rather to say that they both do good jobs but slightly differently. The colour of the cap is slightly lighter too, plu
  22. I'm tempted by Flory Models new acrylic racks, but the price coupled with the fact that I would have to locally find a suitable acrylic glue is stopping me. There must be alternatives out there but most seem to be flimsy items with not very good reviews. Have any of you guys got any experience based suggestions? Cheers Les
  23. I've found that gunze lacquer thinner will do the job gently, even if you do have to let it soak for a while Hth Les
  24. Pep, are we allowed to ask how come you were in possession of the body paint in the first place......?! As for using elmers glue, for the colouring, you may want to put some watercolour paint rather than food colouring, as the newer food colourings can stain, especially when used with acrylics. Essentially it is just something to help you see where you put it Les
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