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Everything posted by lesthegringo

  1. Thanks, Mike, good tip, especially about the Gunze stuff. Someone pointed me to this as well http://modelingmadness.com/others/features/mp/mcleodpaints.htm which compares different products including these
  2. Hi guys, a visiting friend has just bought me six jars of MM metalizer lacquer as a present (in return for free board and beers!) I have never used them before so know nothing about them, but as they seem to be a range of shades I can see that they would be great for engine exhausts, and areas like the rear of F-4's. The shades he bought me are Magnesium 'buffing' metalizer Steel 'non-buffing' metalizer Aluminium 'non-buffing' metalizer Burnt Iron 'buffing' metalizer Stainless Steel 'buffing' metalizer Titanium 'buffing' metalizer So as I normally use enamels, the first question is ca
  3. If it is nitromethane, don't they sell that for glow plug engine fuel? I seem to remember you could add more nitro for a bit more power, or for easier starting maybe? Les
  4. I have recently been looking through some of the jet models the builders have posted on this site, and I am super impressed by the way that they are able to capture the look of the modern seats. It's a failing of mine that my seats are not good, and there is more than one model skulking at the back of the display cabinet with an empty cockpit, with the seat still in the box waiting for me to get round to doing a job worthy of the rest of the model. I must say, a dedicated tips guide for how to do this would be welcomed by me, especially for the grab handles and how to make the fabric look rea
  5. Thanks Guys. Am I to take it that the debonder is not Acetone based? I've come to the conclusion that I have no choice but to sacrifice the paint so that looks the way to go. Mind you, for sheer curiosity value, the peanut butter option sounds like something I'll try, if nothing else to see the look on my wife's face.... Cheers for all that helped
  6. Guys, had a bit of a disaster which I'm too embarrassed to go into, but the end result is a significant quantity of cyano ending up where it shouldn't be on a model. I got what I could off while it was relatively soft, but there's still a film of it with some pooled into corners. Thankfully not on a transparency, but I have to remove as much as I can without destroying the model, and if possible the least paint removed. I do have some neat acetone, but am not sure what effect it will have long term on the model. Any suggestions? Les
  7. I will get a sheet of varying ones in 1/48th, once I find somewhere that have them in stock! Looks like mail order will be the only way, however even then I've drawn a blank from my usual sources. Oh well, a bit of patience goes a long way, and that Airfix BF109E was winking at me when I was in the store asking about the decal sheet..... Les *update* Found a suitable sheet on the other side of the world, Hannants has a good 1/48 sheet with various symbols that will keep me going for years
  8. I know the reason, the Swastika is a politically sensitive symbol that is forever going to be associated with the excesses of Nazi Germany. However, like tobacco sponsor decals on F1 cars, it is no longer included in the kit box for some models, such as the Airfix Stuka purchased yesterday. While I can see the point of not putting it on the box art, I find myself wondering why it can't be offered as a separate decal sheet in the box as after all, anyone who will build an accurate model will do so by other means. A swastika on the tail of a model is not going to incite anyone to become a Nazi,
  9. I've just been to the Victorian Hobby Centre to ask if they know of anywhere that sells it, and there answer was 'no, but....'and they proceeded to show me Humbrol Clear gloss varnish, which the reckon is Humbrol's version of Future / Clear. It isn't cheap at AUS$15 a 125ml bottle, but I bought some to try. Not sure if it will turn out to be as good as Future, only time will tell, but I'll let you know the results Les
  10. My lot of Clear has leaked into the box during my move, so something I didn't expect to have to replace has gone. But, just like the concentrated Simple Green, I am having trouble tracking the Johnsons product down. I have found some acrylic floor varnishes, but they are not the same as Clear, as they are more liquid, smell of ammonia and are milky when liquid. Again, a quick look in Bunnings, Coles and Woolworths has come up short, anyone know where it is available, and of course whether it is under a different name?
  11. Just seen this in the Lucky Model website, which maybe is a corrected canopy for the Trumpeter 1/32 A-10, but a search on Google doesn't turn anything up. The description in the Lucky Model site is pretty vague stating "have glass II anti-reflection coating for canopy" yet if it was a coating it wouldn't be model specific. Has anyone come across these, maybe shed some light on it?
  12. Ok, I have found the simple green in spray version in Mitre 10 - not the concentrated version. Going to see if it's as good as the concentrated stuff. Thanks for those that posted Les
  13. 1/48th predominantly. I've got some experience in working 3d modelling in Solidworks, would that be of use if I could send a file?
  14. Anyone found anywhere that sells this in Australia? Asked in the Victorian Hobby Centre and they said that they weren't permitted to import it for some reason Les
  15. Has anyone tried to 3D print a fan blade set for large turbofans, or even for the CF34's on the A10's? Those wide chord clapperless fans are difficult to scratch build, but as they are wide chord don't look right when they are moulded using traditional techniques. You only have to look at the RR Trent 1000, the GEnx or the GE90 and you can see that you can see clear daylight through them. If they were moulded complete with the disc and maybe even the spinner and attrition liner / containment casing, I bet they would step up the look of the models by a notch. Les
  16. Melbourne, eastern region. The Bunnings on Whitehorse and Middleborough roads didn't have it, although I wasn't looking for the spray version. Might go over and look for the spray this afternoon Cheers
  17. Title says it all, I have tries Bunnings, Masters, AutoBarn with no joy. Any ideas? Thanks
  18. Thanks guys. The shop that sells it also carries the spares, so that was a good point to make. I still have a gravity feed double action brush for fine stuff (0.3 tip) so this would be more the general purpose one. I'll get it! Les
  19. Guys, looking at replacing a worn out double action airbrush of uncertain parentage. It was a cheapie that lasted OK, but here they are selling the Paasche VL which will be five times the amount and I want to know if it is worth it. For info the worn one has the nozzle tip worn through on one side, so it doesn't have a correct spray pattern, and no spares are available Anyone with experience of the Paasche VL? Les
  20. How does it react to enamels or the Gunze Mr Color lacquers being sprayed over it? Does any wrinkling or bleed occur? Les
  21. Gents, I was considering building one of the Trumpeter F-14's, as I like the look of these birds with the slats and flaps down. I built the Hasegawa 1/48 kit many years ago with the VF-1 Wolfpack markings, and am hankering for a similar bird in the larger scale. However reading the reviews, it appears that the kit includes no parts to represent the flat / slat tracks or actuators, plus a few of the other actuating mechanisms. I search on Google doesn't show any aftermarket parts for this, and limited skill and time make scratchbuilding an unlikely scenario. Are there any products out there th
  22. If it is for gap and seam filling, forget putty and go for the cyanoacrylate glue and talc method - it revolutionised my modeling. All my putty, filler and such are now abandoned at the back of the drawer Les
  23. Don't worry, if I need a load of hot air all I will have to do is get one of the locals to talk about their chances of winning the Ashes..... ;) Les
  24. Thanks for the replies, guys; you've put my mind at rest, especially when you mentioned that LuckyModel can ship there without massive tax implications, they have been my saviour in Abu Dhabi where there is absolutely nothing for sale. Like I said, some countries have strange import restrictions (the UK can't import any electronics hardware that has lead based solder, for example) so I was wary, and didn't want to pass up the opportunity to stock up. You can get Johnsons Future there, right? As an aside it seems LuckyModel are also having problem getting Gunze paints, so maybe the issue the
  25. Guys, I am about to move to Melbourne from Abu Dhabi. I have been looking on line at the modelling shops to see what I can and can't get, as over the next few weeks I have the opportunity to travel to the US and Thailand, where I know stuff is freely available. One of the things I have noticed is that the Tamiya 'Lacquer' thinners does not seem to be sold, for instance; I know in the UK due to EU rules it isn't permissible to stock it, is it the same in Australia? If there is anything that you are aware of that cannot be obtained in Australia, please let me know as right now I have a chance
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