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Posts posted by lesthegringo

  1. You can try mixing some baby powder into the cyano, prevents it getting too hard to sand. Using cyano avoids the shrinkage problems as it does not melt or soften the plastic.


    Used this method, and with a bit more savvy on the use of Cyanoacrylate has revolutionised my modeling, thanks very much for all the help! I'm even tackling ejector pin marks in places I would not have done before1

    Another satisfied customer!

  2. Couldn't find Goo-Gone or anything like that here, so I bought some of the ammonia based window cleaner. I soaked the part for a day in it, then with a toothpick worked at it. It came off with a bit of work, seems the ammonia rejuvenated the latex a bit. There was absolutely no effect on the model part or the paint, so I even got away with that.

    Hope this helps someone, and thanks again for those who posted on here with suggestions


  3. guys, after about three years I have finally restarted the build of one of Tamiya's big Formula 1 cars I began two moves ago. At that time, I'd painted some of what is a fairly complex part that includes the engine block, gearbox and rear wing attachment frame. As a result, I'd chosen to use liquid latex mask, in this case Winsor & Newton.

    Unfortunately I didn't remove it before putting the kit on ice, and trying to remove it yesterday was impossible; some of the stuff came off, but the majority had turned into a slightly slimy mess that I can't remove. I attempted to put more latex mask on over it, to see if it would rejuvenate it so that it would all bind together, but no success.

    I am not worried about the paint job, that can be redone, but I do need to get that stuff off. I thought about ammonia, but aside from window cleaning fluids with ammonia, I don't believe neat ammonia is available here. Also, the mask is in some difficult to get at areas, and the part can't be broken down to access the areas easier.

    Hope someone has the silver bullet!


  4. I work in the aircraft industry - MEK is easy to get, same as trich is ( although not as easy as it used to be) I'll give those a go, in the meantime I've persevered with the CA as a filler, and have realised that as long as I work with it quickly, it can be sanded more easily than I thought

    Thanks to everyone who helps here!

  5. Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I have to say, I'm very limited in what I can get here, so some of those options won't be open to me.

    I'm trying the cyano route, the big problem with it being how terribly hard it sets, so sanding it down is fraught. Is there any other filler available that doesn't set so hard but doesn't shrink? Car body filer (the two pack stuff) springs to mind, though I'm not sure I can get that either!

    The other issue I have is that it is impossible to see the imperfections until after the paint goes on. I try and put a coat of gloss over the areas I've filled,which shows up any imperfections very, but of course then you either have to wait until the paint fully dries, or you have to take the paint off. Is there a very rapid and hard drying gloss that I can use for this purpose?

  6. Thanks guys - looks like I'm in a hole then. I am in the UAE and there is only one shop that sells any kits, let alone being able to choose adhesives. I can't even get matt white or black!

    I have to rely on tubes of 'polystyrene cement' made by Humbrol and some laquer thinners if I want a liquid alternative.

    Cyano glue is available but sets too hard, and there is no outlet that sells epoxy based filler. Any help I can get to help me is very welcome

    B-17 Guy, seam sinkage is where you join two fuselage halves, then when you paint them the joint seems to have sunk down, even if you thought you'd sanded it smooth


  7. Guys, no matter what I do, I can't seem to avoid seam sinkage when joining the fuselage halves. I let the seams sit for a day before doing anything, then start by sanding to remove the worst of any discrepancy. I then use Mr Srfacer in thin thin layers, and let it sit for another day. I then sand, and if necessary repeat the Mr Surfacer, let it sit , and the sand and polish it all and it looks great.

    Then, after I paint it, it sinks in and leaves the same seam line that I was trying to avoid.

    What should I do? There are some metallic planes I want to do, but until I get the seam issue sorted, I refuse to touch them.



  8. Hi guys, I hope someone can help me! I'm building a Hobby Boss F/A18 for my son, and have lost one of the main gear legs. I live in the UAE and there are zero models for sale here, and none of the stockists are prepared to ship to here.

    Does anyone have these, I and my son would be eternally grateful! (as I also am to Dave williams for pointing out the fact that I wrote Academy rather than Hobby Boss!!!)


  9. I will add my approval to this - they shipped without fuss to the UAE, and when I opened the box on a HobbyBoss A-10 and found a part damaged, they sent the entire sprue to me the next week.

    I have just had to contact them regarding a subsequent part that I have lost, and when they replied saying that they don't have stock to provide a replacement from, and so offered me a US$5 credit against my next purchase even though it was not their fault

    Great company to deal with in my opinion.


  10. Gents, I need a replacement HobbyBoss 1/48 F18-A Front cockpit transparency, having left the old one drying after painting the frame, and someone who shall remain nameless (OK, it was the wife!!!) 'tidied up'

    I am in Abu Dhabi in the UAE and they don't sell plastic model kits here so I can't even buy another kit to make a copy.

    If anyone has one that is going begging, I would be a very grateful recipient!


  11. Gents, I am unable to achieve a smooth high gloss finish with any paints I have, using my airbrushes. I have tried Humbrol enamels, Gunze 'aqueous' colours and even future. I have tried thinning the paints progressiveley to see if it gets better, all to no avail. I'm mystified. While I would not call it orange peel, the best I get is a good satin finish.

    I have a Badger 350, and also a DeVilbiss Aerograph 63. Neither seems to help. All I can think of is that the pressure of my compressor is too low, but even then I still seem to be able to produce a reasonable cloud of paint when using the Badger.



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