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Everything posted by lesthegringo

  1. The problem with this technique is that as the glue solvent gradually evaporates out, you get sinkage. In my experience this makes this technique useless for anything other than very fine layers or thicknesses. I started using the talc and superglue mix a couple of years ago, and have never used any other filler since (unles you count plastic strip glued along edges). It is fast, cures hard enough to scribe, soft enough to sand, never shrinks and works out cheap because you can buy the cheap superglues from your local cheapie shop. You can fill large areas and gaps very quickly as you can add
  2. Count me in for a good 1/48th sled! Les
  3. I may have them but I need to check if they are still any good. If they are you are welcome to them Cheers Les
  4. I've used Simple Green before, as it seems to be able to get rid of really stubborn release agents. I had problems with paint 'eye-spotting' on styrene parts that alcohol wouldn't remove and couldn't use more aggressive stuff. I used Simple Green to strip the dried paint off one time and found it got rid of the problem. Worth trying, and you can always use it to strip paint off your models Hope that helps Les
  5. Great reply, many thanks. I'd wondered whether all the hype matched the reality, and in fact could see the stria from the printing process on some Eduard F6F engine cowling parts, although to be fair they were finer than those above. I have no way to actually test it myself, so need good feedback like this. To me it sounds like the technology is not yet ready for home use for modelling. I assume the industry grade items are capable of better but looks like I'll be using this only for non-scale stuff if I do decide to get one Cheers Les
  6. Little detail parts that can't be injection moulded due to their geometry, like airscoops, or stuff like gear doors where ejector pin marks are impossible to avoid. I'd be using it for other non-modeling projects too, like improving my F1 car sim rig, making some 'cockpit' parts for a flight sim, so the detail parts thing would be a nice bonus, if it was possible Cheers Les
  7. Has anyone purchased or used one of these for producing parts? If so, how did you get on and what tips can give? Cheers Les
  8. Thanks for the help guys I'm now looking for some good pictures of the intercooler trunking and the area around the rear of the engine bulkhead, does anyone have this? An internet search has turned up virtually nothing of value, as it mainly focusses on the engine or exterior views Cheers Les
  9. Not many manufacturers would be so bold, Martin! Just don't open the 'what kit should we make next' can of worms Cheers Les
  10. Thanks guys, great info, and many thanks for the links. The Eduard engine definitely has the edge in terms of level of detail, and the ear deflectors seem to be very well represented, so I'll probably go with that. I'll check out all those links, and may be back for more! Thanks as ever for your assistance, very much appreciated Cheers Les
  11. I can confirm that the Mr Metal Primer offers no advantage on stainless photo etched material Cheers Les
  12. Guys, this is unashamedly a repeat of a post over on Britmodeller, hoping that by putting it up here as well I increase the chances of an answer In support of my Jasmine F6F built I need to pin down some painting details plus some other bits and bobs. First up is to know what the little silver tank in the picture below is, and what colour it should be. It fits into the fuselage behind the pilot Secondly, I have sourced an Aires detail set for the F6F 5 which has a better resin engine and ancillaries, plus some better cockpit details and weapons bay detail - though curiously despite Aires
  13. Gents, I bought the Aires resin detail set for the F6F to dress up my Jasmine F6F and replace the poor resin parts. The only problem is that bizarrely the Aires set comes with 6 perforated barrels but only four Brownings.... So does anyone have two resin Brownings they can spare? Cheers Les
  14. Hi guys, I'm looking for the main and tail gear for the Hellcat in 1/48th. I'm not particularly fussed which kit they are from as it is to go on a Jasmine F6F to replace the rather crappy resin originals I'm assuming anyone who built an F6F in flight won't need those ;) Cheers Les
  15. Thanks The local shop did have it, amongst their glues and adhesives in a bottle that I had obviously previously dismissed as a glue. Anyway, gave it a go, and we will see if it does indeed do the job, although if the Jasmine frets are stainless, I may not be as effective. Having said that, it does spray beautifully, and nice and thin - stinks to high heaven, though! Les
  16. Thanks milcari. In the end I decided it would help push me if I did make it a WIP thread so I started one over on BM. Hope I can do it justice. Still interested to know what kit they used for the bits Les
  17. Thanks, not seen the Gunze or Tamiya ones in my LHS, but I'll ask them in case it's something they can get. The DIY store etch primers I believe are for use with steel parts, not brass Cheers Les
  18. Does anyone have any recommendations for a primer for photo etched parts? For preference one that bites into the surface the same way automotive etch primers do (only for steel rather than brass or nickel) I want to prepaint and then be able to bend, which you cant do without a good primer as the paint cracks off Cheers Les
  19. Guys, my well meaning but slightly misguided wife has given me one of the Jasmine photo etch F6F-5 'kits' as a birthday present. She had seen me poring over a build of one over on Britmodeller and showing pictures of it to the kids and assumed that I would like one - without realising my utter fear of photo etch! However, it was a present and I wouldn't want to disappoint her by not making it or giving it away, so I will try my best to make it, although I'm not confident of a very good result. I intend to paint the structure in chromate primer, with cockpit green in the cockpit area and the
  20. Gunze Mr Color lacquer, easy to spray and gives a lovely even coat Cheers Les
  21. Guys, I'm using some nice Zotz decals, P-47 pin up girl markings. The issue I am having is that the edges of the decals are very pronounced, principally the insignia but also to a lesser degree on the others. it's almost a sharp edge to the carrier film, which is very visible. I am using future to get the decals to snuggle down, and on a couple of other recent models (Tamiya F4U and Eduard P-400) I have been able to make the decals look like they are painted on, so suspect my basic technique is sound. So do you have any suggestions as to how I can get the edges of the decals to be less obvi
  22. Happy with that! Just building the Hasegawa version, which is interesting but showing its age, so I'm looking forward to seeing how AMK's comes out. I can wait, though, got too many (according to the missus) to build before getting a new one anyway. Even if the kit doesn't come with Alicat markings, I'll probably get aftermarket decals which will almost certainly appear shortly afte r the kit release Les
  23. I've taken pictures of the belts and the instructions and marked up the instruction photo to explain my confusion I suspect the belts in the photo are not the same scale, and maybe not even the same belts. The buckles are too narrow for the belts that go through them, you have to trim the belts to go through otherwise you destroy the ends trying to push them through. I have spent a whole hour just trying to be one buckle on, and still am only 3/4 done on it Hope these work! Les
  24. first time trying these, I am using the set for the 1/48th Hellcat. There are no instructions, just a picture of the assembled belts, but I can't seem to work out how they go together using the picture. A diagram of what threads through where would be helpful indeed, and the HGW site has no information to help. The photo included just confuses me as it looks like there are two short bits sticking out each side of the buckle - which logically cannot be right unless you have one short bit over the long belt Let me try and get some pictures to explain, meanwhile any tips gratefully accepted Le
  25. Thanks guys - there is an element of being stuck with what's available locally in terms of bottle size, but maybe the internet will come to my rescue Cheers Les
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