lesthegringo

Thanks for all the replies guys. I dug out my surfacer (1200) and tried with that. As mentioned above, worked great applying it, and making over it gave no issues for the gunze lacquers after. One problem I did have was that it clogged my spray-gun (badger 350 type single action) and even though I could get air to travel down the paint feed tube into the jar containing the thinned (tamiya yellow cap) surfacer, after a while it woul refuse to come out until I stripped down and cleaned everything. It was well thinned too. Any ideas on what I have done wrong? Les

Thanks, I have some mr surfacer somewhere, I'd forgotten all about it. Does it adhere as well as the rattle can primers? Les

Fairly obvious question, which is the best primer. I use various types of paints, so has to be compatible, and also for preference easily obtainable and not stupidly expensive, It can either be a rattle can, or jar / tin, as long as it sprays nicely Les

Oh dear..... Thanks guys Les

Guys, I have come back from a trip to find that one of the decals that I put on to a model has obviously been moved inadvertently. Unfortunately, as I put the decal on a week ago, and I used Future to help it settle, it is clinging on rather tenaciously. I have used some cloudy ammonia to see if I can soften the Future, but it is dried on so well that I am having no success. Any tips on how to refloat it so I can get it where it should be? Les

I'm building the Hasegawa 1/48th A7-D, and have made a complete mess of the main canopy part. It has a black coloured internal frame, and when I glued it in to the transparency I did not check to see exactly where the all the points that touch were. As a result, I have bad glue marks on the inside of the canopy where it has wicked between the two parts, but unfortunately in an area that is not covered by external framing. As a result I'm wondering if anyone has these two parts going begging, as the one I have is beyond recovery Here's hoping! Cheers Les

Guys, not sure if anyone else has had this happen, but cleaning my new Paasche VL airbrush, I used an ammonia based cleaner to get rid of some tough acrylic paint residues. The trouble is, it seems to have stripped the chrome of the nozzle tip as well, revealing the brass underneath it. I use this cleaner with a load of the cheap Chinese airbrushes and have never had this issue, so maybe it is something to do with the materials, but anyway no more non-solvent cleaner for this one! I also note that it is difficult to achieve fine lines and fine control with the Paasche, and that the needle is

Unfortunately the Gator Grip is not available here in Australia - my stash of future was a present from a visitor from the US. Next time someone visits, that glue will be on the manifest. As for my problems, judicious sanding with my super and extra fine sanding sticks coupled with Future were enough to make my fingerprints disappear (don't tell the CSI's) but the crack is here to stay. Shame but one of those things. Maybe one day Great Wall Hobbies will answer an e-mail request for help and I can buy some replacements Cheers gents

Thanks guys, will have to nip down the hobby store and buy some patience! Les

Gents, I am using some Xtracolor paints for the first time, as they do some very specific shades, but either they are very slow drying or I have a bad batch. More than 48 hours after applying the colour by airbrush, using Tamiya lacquer thinners, the paint is still tacky so I can't work with the parts. Is this normal, or is there a secret to using them? Cheers Les

Lucky they sell it where you are, we can only dream! Oz importers please note, along with Future! Les

Thanks For fighter canopies, I use blu-tac or modelling clay inside whenever I am doing anything with them, due to past problems with cracking while sanding

Thanks Chuck - the glue mark is on the outside, so that should be OK, if a little awkward. Sounds like the crack is going to be a nasty one, though Cheers Les

No, nothing wrong with the house double glazing, this is me seeking assistance after having two major transparency related disasters in the space of 15 minutes. The subject is the GWH P-61, which features a lot of prominent glazing. My first screw up was when moving stuff around, the transparency sprue somehow ended up on the floor, when according to Murphy's law I stepped on it. Thankfully with the three major canopy parts already removed, the real damage was limited to one part where the sprue attachment point was ripped away, leaving a large rough area, and more importantly a crack. So, wh

Thanks for all the answers guys Tamiya it is then! Cheers

Thanks, Jennings, helps to know that

Wanting to do an OOB non-folded wing Corsair, and was scoping what was available locally the choices are: Tamiya appx 30 dollars Academy appx 20 dollars HobbyBoss appx 60 dollars Revell appx 25 dollars Minicraft appx 50 dollars Hasegawa appx 40 dollars Of them all I have built one of the Tamiya kits (very nice) but am not certain how the build would go with the unfolded wings. The other I built (way back when) was the Monogram kit, which I assume is the Revell kit here. Now with due trepidation of creating a wave of invective about one kit or another, can anyone point out why the Min

If it is a metal tube, melt some solder around the tube where it slips inside to restore the diameter, the soft solder will be easy to sand back to the right size plus it will form a good seal. It may not be permament but it will keep you going until a more permanent solution Les

Gents, just starting this build, and have been looking at previous builds on line to get some tips. One issue that seems to recur is that the nose gear leg is fitted prior to closing up the fuselage halves, with all the attendant issues of breakage during painting etc. During some initial test fitting, I tried to see if the nose leg can be left off until later, and my immediate impression is that it can be. It is a thin, quite flexible part that has no attaching parts other than the wheel, and the slot that it fits through does allow it to pass without breaking, although the attachment points

Chippy, my wife has made it abundantly clear that I am not to have a stash, unless it is of make-up, dresses, handbags and shoes. So as a result they have to, occasionally, appear to be finished. To the untrained eye. Erm, like hers. someone take the shovel out of my hands...? Les

I have been following a few threads recently, both here and on the Britmodeller site, where bitter arguments have raged about the accuracy of some kits, and also some criticisms of kits for the way that they build. For me though, I continue to be delighted and astounded by the quality of the modern kits. Recently, I have been making or even made (finished - never thought that would happen!) a number of kits that have shown me what modern kit manufacturers are capable of. Not that they are necessarily without some problems, and I am not going to comment on the accuracy, but the following have

Thanks guys, will try those tips, unfortunately with the exception of the Future as in Australia it has been discontinued and I can't find anyone who will ship it here due to regulations and ultimately cost. The modelling community here have been clamouring for its return but to no avail. Possibly in the near future (no pun intended) I will be travelling overseas, and I will take to opportunity to see if I can buy some Cheers Les

Guys, I have enjoyed building this model, it is beautifully engineered and goes together like a dream. However, I have started to decal it, and I am struggling with the super delicate decals, both with them falling apart and also with a lot of silvering. The finish on the model is not a full gloss, but glossier than a satin coat. I am using Micro Sol, but as they don't sell it here I am not able to use future. On the first go, I found the decals would break apart with the slightest touch, such that I was unable to get some off them off the carrier film, and this is without any application of

Just finishing up Eduards rather nice F6F-5, go to get the decal sheet and.... oh, bugger, where did I put them? They arrived in the box, I know that as I studied them pondering how well those shark mouth bits would settle down. Oh well, I'm sure Eduard will be happy to sell me more! Unless anyone has any that they don't want of course! *EDIT* Found them! I was looking for a big sheet, and the sheets are two little ones that had gone under the keyboard of this very computer. How silly do I feel....?

I have to like this one Les