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About ChipJean

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    Chip Jean
  • Birthday 02/09/1951

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    Yorktown, VA

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  1. If you're gonna be critical, at least share your knowledge and tell him what's wrong and how he can fix it. By the way, you misspelled totally.
  2. Finished my C-141B in the gray/white "City of Charleston" markings. The kit is ok, nothing special, but the decals are beautiful and really make the model. Pics posted in The Display Case.
  3. First airbrushed them with Tamiya lacquer gloss black decanted from the spray can, then Alclad stainless steel and finally a protective coat of Alclad aqua gloss before I masked them off for the rest of the paint job.
  4. Out of the box with Caracal decals. It's a very basic kit with no interior detail or options. Fit isn't wonderful but not bad either so no constructions issues that a competent kit assembler can't handle. Gray paint is Model Master ADC gray (not AMC gray) enamel. The white is a base of Testors flat white oversprayed with Tamiya laquer gloss white decanted from the spray can and shot through my Badger 150. While the paint scheme looks easy, it took a fair amount of masking including the tricky area around the aerial refueling port and the curve under the rear where the cheat lines meet. In addi
  5. True Details cockpit, Model Master paints, kit decals. A nice little kit, no constructions problems that I didn't cause myself. Kit decals worked as well as any aftermarket set, I just soaked them in hot water then used only MIcroSet for a setting solution. They into and over surface detail in minutes and dried much thinner they seemed on the paper. For airbrushing, I got the best results from my 30+ year old Badger 150 with the fine needle and tip. My Sotar 20/20 and Badger 100 side feed were disappointments, both being too finicky and constantly clogging. I used a Grex XGI for the green and
  6. Out of the box, Model Master paints, Caracal decals. Definitely not a shake-and-paint build but not awful either. The kit comes with a large photo-etch sheet which includes all the screens you see on the model and seat belts for the cockpit and cabin
  7. I build mostly out of the box but in this case I wanted to replace the props, which just didn't look right to me, and the vinyl tires, which I hate. But then I went on a spree (for me) and ended up getting a bunch of aftermarket stuff: Contact Resine props, spinners and tires; Grand Phoenix cockpit; SAC metal landing gear Quick Boost gun barrels; and Zotz decals. Construction was a bit tricky. There are complete engines that can't be fully displayed without cutting some panels but they will be partially visible through some openings so at least a half-assed effort is required there. All contr
  8. Only kit mod was some generic PE seat harnesses, otherwise out of the box. No fit problems but there were quite a few sink marks on the wings and a few on the fuselage. Painted with Model Master enamels. Kit decals used throughout and they worked beautifully.
  9. Hasegawa's 1/72nd scale F-16N. Verlinden resin seat, lead foil seatbelts with Model Technologies buckles, other Model Technologies bits around the cockpit, and ACMI pod scratched from a toothpick, lead foil and a straight pin. While not as nice as Tamiya's F-16, the Hasegawa kit holds up well for its age with no build issues. Decals, on the other hand, were a bit testy which is an occasional problem with Hasegawa decals. Using Mr. Setter/Mr. Softer, the first decal wrinkled up into a ball so after some experimenting the best solution was a little water and a little MicroSet on the model, appl
  10. Kinetic 1/48 F-5B in Canadian markings making it a CF-116D. I replaced the kit seats with Wolfpack resin seats and replaced the plastic pitot with telescoping rod & tube. Rest of the kit is stock. I was thinking this would bean easy build but it turned out to be much tougher than I expected. Not that it's a bad kit, it's not; good detail, plenty of options, and decent fit. It just turned out to be more complicated than I expected with a 6 piece fuselage plus inserts and 8 pieces to the intakes. Paint is Model Master, metal areas are Alclad. The decal sheet is gorgeous, almost worth the p
  11. It's my own fault. I bought and then decided to build this thing. My expectation from a Roden kit is decent plastic but lousy decals. With this kit however, initial impression was reversed. The decals looked good on the sheet, almost Cartograph quality. I was hopeful. The plastic, on the other hand, looked like a bad, early '90s limited run kit. Thick, rough plastic; lots of flash; heavy sprue attachment points; no locating pins; poorly formed small parts; vague and inconsistent recessed panel lines. And yet I went ahead with the build. Before construction could begin, all parts had to be res
  12. Out of the box. A largely trouble-free build, except for the intakes, which are usually a problem for jet models anyway. Model Master paints w/Raptor Sheen mixed into the 2 darker grays to try to get that metallic sheen seen on the Raptor when the light hits is just right. I tried several paint to Raptor Sheen ratios but couldn't get the effect I wanted. Kit decals were printed by Cartograph and were excellent.
  13. Out of the box with Xtradecals. It's a nice little kit, especially for the price. Definitely not a "Shake 'n Paint" kit but no serious issues either.
  14. Out of the box with Fundekals. Not a trouble free build, but not tough either. Needed a little extra work around the intakes, the lower wing seams and the right side of the vertical stab. The Fundekals worked beautifully, fitting perfectly where fit was importantly and settling into and over surface detail. ADC aircraft were generally kept in pretty good shape so weathering was limited to a semi-gloss vs. gloss finish and a brown wash.
  15. Out of the box. A few minor fit issues but overall a sweet little kit.
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