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Steve gaspar

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  1. The lint sheets are 4 by 6. I use scissors to cut the size I need or just use the whole sheet. The individual sheets are perforated (very finely) so you can use any length you desire but you're limited by the 4-inch width. Sheet tack extends right to the edge so you can butt ends. I then take the sheet and attach it to the part to be painted and lightly pencil the areas to be cut out. You don't have to stick the sheet down to the part with any great force because it's very tacky. I then pull the sheet off the part, put it on a piece of glass and use a exacto knife to cut out the parts that will be painted and then reattach it to the model part. I found out if I put it the sheet on a piece of glass to cut, then I could spin the glass around while I held the exacto knife and cut without sharp lines. Anyways, the lint sheets are thin enough so that you can see through them to the outline of the part below so you know where you are but if you put the part on top of a glass plate with some source of light coming from below you can see it much better. I got the idea because I wanted to do some painting and I found out if I ordered masking sheets that were 4 by 6, it would take almost 4 weeks to get to me and I wanted to paint NOW, so I decided to experiment. So far it has worked out very nicely and I thought I'd share...
  2. I'm not sure if anyone has addressed this before. I was having issues with masking matierials and ran into this solution. I'm now using 3m lint roller tape. This is the vynil type and not paper based. Benefits: Its fairly flexible for moderate curved surfaces Its thin so you can trace easily and see how the mask will look It's easy to cut with an exacto Maintains stickiness with repeated application/ removal Does not pull up cured paint Non absorbent Leaves a sharp edge with airbrusing Cheap The paint I use is acylic based and I have not used it with lacquer or enamel. YMMV
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