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k5ikl

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Everything posted by k5ikl

  1. Word of caution here on wet tissues. This happened to me. If the water in your area is hard with a high mineral content the wet tissues will cause discoloration to your painted cockpit interior. When I took the wet tissues out I had discolored spots all over the cockpit. Gets worse the longer you leave the tissues in there. Would suggest using bottled or distilled water. FWIW. ;) Jerry
  2. I second Swanny's advice. I had disasterous results using Testors dull coat over acrylics, even in light coats. ;) Jerry :)
  3. Mario, I don't know how you would fix that Testors clear stuff. Throw it out and get you some MicroScale Krystal Klear. Works great. I tried the Testors Clear cement and didn't like it. ;) Jerry
  4. Damn, I am going to go broke buying F-16 kits just to keep up with all these neat F-16 decal schemes. :lol: Jerry :)
  5. k5ikl

    Gunmetal

    Wally, I use a 50-50% mix of flat black and steel. Someone told me about that so I tried it and it looked pretty good to me. :P :D Jerry
  6. In my humble opinion I would stay away from both the Squadron Green and White putties. I used the green for quite a few years and wasn't all that pleased with it. Tried the white when it came out and liked it even less. Switched to Acryl Blue car glazing putty which I use all the time now along with Testors red which is nothing more than a car body bondo putty. All in all I really like the Testors Red the best. My 2 cents worth. :D and Merry Christmas Jerry :)
  7. That's a pretty handy dandy site you found there John. Thanks for the tip. :) Jerry
  8. I have used MicroScale crystal clear. Seems to attach stronger than Elmer's White Glue. I also use CA in very small amounts without it fogging. Like someone above stated, the dipping in Future will help the fogging problem when using CA. Jerry ;)
  9. I have used Acryl Blue for years and still have a huge tube of it left. I use Testors liquid cement to thin it. What I did was get me one of the small carmex jars (throw away the carmex) then squeeze out some of the Blue into the jar. Then I mix in drops of liquid cement to get the putty to the consistancy that I want. After being sealed for awhile it will tend to dry up. Just add some more cement to it and it will be come soft again. FWIW and HTH, :D Jerry
  10. I still have a whole rack of those old Pactra International Colors. If any one is interested in any particular color, let me know. I have had them for about 30 years and they are still good. :) Jerry
  11. I agree with Steve and Mo. I have been using the old Testors dull coat for 30+ years and have had nothing but good results with it for a good flat look. I even prefer the Testors Gloss instead of future, but I do use future too. My 2 cents FWIW. Jerry
  12. If you have a Hobby Lobby anywhere near you, they carry the Ambroid. I use both the Ambroid and Testors Liquid cements with excellent results. :) Jerry
  13. I don't much care for either of the Squadron putties. I use the Testors red putty. Works well for me. Jerry
  14. I have been thinning MM enamels with their regular thinner for years. Yes, quite expensive. I never thought about thinning them with lacquer thinner as I thought it was probably not compatiable. Well, I tried it yesterday on a P-47 project and and I am now converting to lacquer thinner for my MM enamals. Worked great. And will be cheaper too. :) Jerry
  15. Justin, I use MM exclusively and thin about 50-50. Sometimes a little more and sometimes a little less. Depending. HTH Jerry
  16. Testors RED putty is much better than the Squadron Green/White stuff. It is basically an auto body glazing putty. Can be bought at auto body supply places in bigger tubes than the RED putty. Jerry B)
  17. Hey Ivan, I use the Testors Red Putty quite a bit and really like it much better than Squadron Green or White. I have also used the auto glazing putty with great success. Jerry :)
  18. Robert, I used Alclad II on an F-86D but didn't seal the decals. However I have used the Metalizer Sealer on MM Metalizer colors and it leaves the NMF looking more varnished than natural. Not sure what it will do on Alcald II, but the Sealer worked okay on the old Alclad I. Be brave and give it a try...... :D Good luck. Jerry
  19. Justin, I bought a couple of 2 drawer file cabinets and put a 32 inch hallow core door on top of them for the work table. You could get a narrower door, although the door might be to long for your area. With the 2 file cabinets I have all kinds of storage. I use those 2 and 3 shelf lazy susans for my paint storage. Good luck with whatever you try. :D Jerry
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