maydaypc

For this purpose, I'm using white wood glue. If you use it straight from the bottle, after it dries you can easily peel it off. You can thin it with water and applied it to the surface with brush. I've used this in my tank model, because it is difficult to mask tank surface with small pieces. I got them broken each time. Applying thinned white glue is easy at least for me. After you finished paint job, wait the paint cure and get your part under running water and brush away white glue. So easy, So cheap. No adverse effect so far. Good for canopy masking too.

Current progress...

Started as a weekend quick build, at least I thought it would. But it didn't resemble a Flanker. So I decided to make some surgery. The first thing I did was making a new nose cone. After that I lengthen the body. As I progress slowly, I realized that more and more things needs touch ups. I lenghten the tail boom. Try to correct the shape and size of the wings.

Very nice finishes, I'm still in the progress of building mine. However, last night I step on the canopy I'll try to fix it without any hope...

Last weekend I bought my first compressor and airbrush. I feel the urge to try the new airbrush and I tried it with MM Laquer burnt metal (it is already thinned for airbrush usage). After the first shot, I tried to clean it with synthetic thinner, it doesn't work. (Dont laugh, remember I'm newbie). Then I tried nail polish remover (here, people called it as Aceton). It did the celaning job very well. I don't know it is suitable for this kind of usage or will it do any harm to the sealers, but, it works. Mayday [PC], signing off...

A long time ago, on the technical documentary about restoration of old writings, they were electricly charging the pages with opposite charges. One page with positive ions, other with negative ions. Pages ssperated cleanly. But, I do not know how you can do this at home Maybe re-moistured pages, threated with ultrasonic vibrations may help.

Open the image any viewing program, if you have TFT monitor adjust the parameters to show you the real size of the image in the screen (generally a box saying 100%), if the image has a scale bar measure it with a ruler, and calculate the size it should be. Use the Print Preview feature of the program, and remeasure the scale bar again to make sure it is it is in 1:72 scale, and then print. If there is no scale bar, you may print the image as is, then measure the length of the plane, knowing the real size of the plane you can easily calculate how much size-reduction is required, look at the

Great painting job Pete! Do you think you could share with us about how you paint those lovely pipes? I really wonder how you ended up with so stunning paint job.

Thank you for your kind and encouraging comments. It is seen better in photos than real life. My first concern is gathering basic model building skills. Filling and modifying wing is far from perfect, but at the end I'm proud of myself. On the other hand, for some modifications I need much more courage :) for the first time I used future in the application of decals, and I'm very pleased with the result. But there is an annoying problem that I couldn't deal with. Landing gears didn't bound to the wings well!!! I mean, they are moving back and forth, as if they are made from an elastic materia

This is my first submission in ARC. It is actually a test run. I tried to use what I saw and read about modelling technics. It was brush painted. All your comments, good or bad, are welcome. Mayday [PC], signing off...

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First of all, thanks for your comments. When we consider the brittleness of pencil lead, some of these leads composed of different materils. Especially, colored ones. I remember the one red in color, very flexible. However, I haven't tried them yet. If I have a chance, I'll inform you.

Just came to my mind suddenly, while thinking how to open gun nozels on my F-100C model. When I read in-progress articles, most of the guys using different materials for making buttons on their cockpits, stretch sprue, cutting small pieces from styrene etc. I'm looking at my automatic pencil (actually I do not know the correct word for this pencil). When you push the back of the pencil, it extracts tiny length of the lead rod. They are mainly sold at 0.5mm, 0.7mm and 0.9mm sizes. They can easily be cut and sanded. I haven't tried it yet, but it can be practical. So, what do you think?

I'm currently working on PM Model 1/72 F-100D. Using it mainly for trying diffrent thecnics, especially for scracth building. Model is very primitive, no cockpit detail, just a rougly shaped seat thats it. However, I really enjoy each and every time spend on it Now, I want to add guns detail. But thay are not mentioned on the kit. I mean they are missing as if they have never been there. I want to ask to more experienceds that what technics I can utilize on this process or how?

Just saw the collision news, it's very sad to know the death of one of the pilot considering the ones left behind and loosing invaluable personnel :( AFAIK, collision caused by the Greek plane crushing the Turkish plane from behind with high speed (I can't imagine how this ccould happened!). Also I don't understand why Greek SAR chopper trying to get the Turkish pilot? I think thwy were wasting their valuable time to find their pilot. By the way, One word catch my attention, a TV reporter asking how this collision can happen with the ENEMY plane, a Turkish pilot (I have no info whether he