jonbryon

It doesn't leave any fibres or lint. Jon

Yes, blackbasing for the blue, and then a dirty blue/grey oil filter over the top, applied with a very wide brush over the paint (no clear coats used anywhere on the model), left to dry for a while and then buffed off with a coffee filter. Thanks Jon

Thanks chaps 🙂 Working on making a stand for it to ensure its survival. Cheers Jon

Hello All, 1 collection, 26 years, 142 aircraft, and this is the biggest failure. This is Revell's 1/48 Catalina with Belcher Bits resin tail, Quickboost resin engines, Eduard Brassin wheels and PE undercarriage. As the kit decals were pretty inaccurate, all markings are masked and sprayed - there are no decals on the model. The finish is mainly Mr Color with some MRP and Hataka lacquer thrown in for good measure; there are no clear coats. Quite a few little additions and alterations were made to better represent the real thing, from Hamilton AFB in 1949. The r

Thanks guys for the comments - much appreciated! Jon

Thanks - I intend to get the Wolfpack ones. It's for a US Navy F-16B so I think they might not be quite right, but they will be close enough. I wish I could get SHM products, but I live the UK where they are unavailable (and shipping, at $25, plus the risk of adding 20% VAT and an £8 handling charge, is prohibitive). Jon

That's really helpful - thanks. Jon

Hello all, Before I spend money, can anyone confirm which aftermarket resin seats are compatible with the Hasegawa 1/48 F-16 kit cockpit and the Kinetic 1/48 F-16 kit cockpit? I've made the mistake of buying resin seats before only to find they are too wide for the kit plastic. I'm interested in the Quickboost 48002 resin seat and the Aires 4141 resin seats. Many thanks Jon

Thanks 👍 Jon

No. You need to seal it. Jon

Mr Metal Color is buffable and so needs sealing to prevent being rubbed off. Jon

Thanks 🙂 Jon

Not really, but that will depend on how you thin the paint and spray it. Jon

No - the reverse. Regular MC thinner is quicker to dry than MLT. You can make it behave more like MLT by adding a drop or three of Mr Mild Retarder in an airbrush cup full. Jon

IMO the GWH T-33 is a very quick build for a 1/48 jet: https://jonbryon.com/great-wall-hobby-1-48-lockheed-t-33a-shooting-star/ Jon

Nice. I really hope this sheet is re-printed as I missed out on it. Jon

They do, but some of them are sold out: http://www.sealmodel.com/product_details.php?category_id=117&item_id=1204 http://www.sealmodel.com/products.php?category_id=117 Jon

Hello all, This is Special Hobby's 1/48 Fiat G.55A Centuro. It's a mixed bag and what you'd expect from a 2008 moulding: variable fit, lots of clean-up, chunky mouldings and multi-media parts. The undercarriage is particularly terrible. The decals are excellent. It's meant to be painted silver, not NMF. Various metallic paints used with oils on top, which was difficult as they tended to get little traction on the smooth surface. Canopy is vac-formed and was designed for a different kit so unsurprisingly, in my view, is the biggest weak point of the finished article. The

Thanks all for your comments 🙂 Cheers Jon

My project to complete all the Hasegawa Skyhawks in my stash is now complete. This is their A-4H with Quickboost resin cannons (although the barrels were replaced by Albion Alloys brass tubing) and Armycast decals. A longer build article is at https://jonbryon.com/hasegawa-1-48-douglas-a-4h-skyhawk/, but the TL;DR is: Built mainly from the box with some small modifications (filled in leading edge slat wells, some parts removed/filled in, fin on leading edge of tail added from plastic card). Paint is mostly Mr Color except for the green, which is MRP. All of the camouflage is free-h

Excellent! I've been looking for F-111E decals in 1/48 and have noted there are practically none. Jon

Thanks everyone! Some had a single gun fitted: Cheers Jon

Thanks. I think what made the difference is using the Daco Red to melt the decal onto the surface, plus the amount of Mr Setter I used, which (as far as I can tell) basically glues the decal down. I think it's these two that made the difference rather than the Aizu tape. I actually didn't put a gloss coat over the decal before masking. Cheers Jon

If you can clean the plastic first with isopropyl alcohol (I use 100% IPA), that will help a lot with paint adhesion, but it might be a little hard to find at the moment. Using water-based acrylics is always going to cause you more problems in this area that using, say, a lacquer acrylic (like Mr Color, MRP, etc.) or a hybrid (like Tamiya or Mr Hobby), but I understand the limitations you have that restrict you to the water-based stuff. Jon

Yes, this is sanded with Infini 2500 grit and then buffed with their 4000 grit. Thanks! Jon