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Night Owl Models

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About Night Owl Models

  • Rank
    Dave
  • Birthday 08/01/1966

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vancouver Island British Columbia
  • Interests
    Anything plastic in scale

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  1. I see on your fuselage half the green paint has flowed over the edge. Be sure to sand, file or scrape paint off before joining two halves or parts. Use Tamiya extra thin cement you can hold your parts together then take some on the brush that comes with it run some over the joint as apposed to using globby model glue. If you have cracks, gaps or uneven seams try your hand at using putty to fill the gap then after it has dried sand it smooth. Like I said this site and YouTube has great tutorials for beginner modelers that will make your modelling more enjoyable. Sometimes you will s
  2. There is allot to unpack here. Put your unpainted bare photo etch on bare plastic you can use plain crazy glue just dispense it in a small cap and use a toothpick or something small to place it then paint it. You shouldn't be painting parts before you assemble them. Your color PE is meant to go on last same gluing process. Keep crazy glue away from clear parts the fumes will fog your clear plastic. If you dont like your paint job you can soak your model in 99% isopropyl alcohol for 20min then use a toothbrush to remove all the paint. Retry your paint brush
  3. Love the desert camo and that tail art is fantastic. Those data markings and pannel detail is the best I cant stop looking at it all.
  4. I really like the camo pattern very inspiring. By your title it sounds like you prefer to use a brush instead of an airbrush? Looking closely it appears that your paint may be drying faster than you can apply it creating an orange peel effect. You can solve this my using something like Vallejo paint retarder medium to slow the drying time and improve flow. If your interested in smoothing out the edges of the camouflage try masking putty even plain sillyputty works great just do thin layers allow plenty of drying time between coats at least 4-6 hrs. If you get build up of paint on the edges aft
  5. I have tried alot of chipping effects and sometimes an oldie is a goodie. Trial this process on a scrap piece. - Lay down undercoat color -Spray on hairspray let dry - Spray top finish color let dry 12 hrs -With a damp Qtip slowly rub away top coat to reveal under coat I find you have way more control depending on how hard you rub is how much chipping will appear.
  6. I have moved into another trial to see if I can create a school of marine fish which are always around a wreck. The goal is to make them look like they are floating/swimming. The problem-when you place an object in resin during the curing process it iether wants to float to the surface or sink to the bottom. I tried once putting rice grains in when the resin was just over half way solid some sank some floated. Solution-fix the fish to thin strands of clear fishing line. Here you can see I cut some fishy shapes from tin and fixed them to an inch long piece o
  7. A few weeks have gone past over the time I have removed the pod, filled and reshaped. There are also sensors parts on GR7 nose on the underside that need to be removed as the pods won't be used. Problem has arisen If you look at the side profile matching the windscreen up with the curve on top of the nose it means raising the windscreen. Didn't see this before arrrg! It gets worse on the side to side matching. So I am starting with filling the gap this is compound curve so it will take some careful sanding and shaping.
  8. I think if you reverse think your model purchases you can spend $60 On a mediocre kit $85 on a high end kit add taxes and shipping. Then add the cost of detail sets, paint, custom decals now your at $300 or more. The Jasmine Hellcat is what it is no decals,paint or upgrade parts. So I just call it even. Anyways I have the acrylic cylinder from Displays to go. I took it to my local plastic store and they were able to cut it down and finish the edge. The dimensions we're 12" diameter 12" high. I can only pour 6" max no acrylic deep pour product is meant to go deeper. Because I am ti
  9. I had to take a super close look are you sure that's not a photo of the real planes. Your camouflage is superb these beauties should be posted in the Display Case not the critique corner I don't see anything to critique they are so amazing!
  10. These are the Dave's I know...lol. love this helicopter I would not want to be on the business or receiving end of this beast. Look forward to watching your build. Looking good so far. Another Dave
  11. Ok so I have become obsessed with your build so much so I dug out my F4U kit I was going to use for the under water wreck when I changed my mind and went to the Hellcat. So here is a section I was intrigued to try mimicking that chalky worn faded look. I did read several other F4U builds. I don't know how far along you are but here is the result. I hope I can help you get a better look seeing your previous painting I am sure it will be better. Base coat entire model 71.279 Insignia white Cut in 71.295 USN Sea Blue Cut in 71.299 Intermediate blue Wet model with mist c
  12. Thanks for continuing this build a guy thinks he's a good scratch builder then I see your work. I don't know if I have the patients for the hundreds of hours it takes to see the end product.
  13. That's one beutiful bomb...finally someone who pays attention to the arming wire from the nose and tail fuse! So back to colors...I did some spraying really I/you could go iether way on the dark blue. I think you can be sure the insignia white and intermediate blue are a given. If your doing a really faded out scheme myself I would choose the USN Sea Blue I have read allot of articles that reference that color in the tri scheme. I really like that bomb can't wait to see what you do with the fuselage...no pressure but we're all watching lol. Please post your step by step pro
  14. So I pushed a 3D rendering to Shapeways for quote to design and print two 1/48 divers.😲 $650 C'mon really. I can buy a 3D printer and download a free STL file which is probably the way to go anyways. I have been waiting to pull the trigger on 3D printer so this is giving me a reason to invest. I want to start making my own detail sets anyway. I have seen other members making custom parts it's the wave of the future making parts and sharing files.
  15. Hi again so I have done some research and colour matching from what I can see and your right, way too many variations to make a definitive choice. If I have to choose for the tri colour scheme. Lower-insignia white FS 71.279 Mid-Intermediate Blue FS 35164-ANA608 71.299 Upper-USN Sea Blue FS35044-ANA607 71.295
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