Night Owl Models

I took some time away from painting out the cabin shell to work on the AESOP station. I took physical measurements off of the platform to use in the CAD work. I have allot of great photos so here we go. Real thing Here is the cad work I started with the frame of the AESOP station. So I had to cut the model into sections as I add detail the file becomes to data heavy, I need a gaming computer for sure. Bottom section Top section in progressive detail. Building switch panel

I think you've exhausted the after market kits good job I know its a lot of work and sometimes purchasing from questionable sources to get what you want. The DCS world is something I am fighting to stay way from if I go down that rabbit hole ill end up with a scrap Harrier cockpit in my rec room! your kits looking sick with detail great to see your taking it to the next level. The next poor slob that builds an Apache has some big shoes to fill.

A question for all the rotor heads out there seems to be some fuzzy information on the exterior FS code for the Canadian CH-12. As best I can see from Belcher Bits and a few posts FS 26173 is the code I prefer Vallejo paints however it looks like Ammo MIG #205 is the only match for that FS code. If anyone has some more definitive information it would help. This is a recent photo from that decommission Seaking looks like a few colors going on here...but what are they? Under the Canada and flag is one color then forward of that is a different color. Tail sect

Good evening or good morning, getting closer to completing the cabin shell. I printed all the wiring bundles out a flexible resin so I don't have to rely on metal wire. CAD of wiring bundles. Flexible resin Time to bring the two prints together, I did two because the cabin was just too tall for the 3D printer so I cut it at the main door seemed like a good place. So the only glue that works with 3D UV polymer resin is CA I like to use BOB Smith Industries. I did a little extra on the seam ill sand it out later.

Use decal softener even if you think you don't need it should solve the curling, just let it sit then work the decal with a brush. Go over all decals before your clear coat it will push the decals into any seams and give you a more realistic finish.

This looks like orange peel of the clearcoat not the undercoat of paint its caused by incorrect leveling or stretching of the clear coat. You will have to sand it smooth then reapply the clear coat. Be mindful of your room temperature and product temperature. I would warm the clearcoat in warm not hot water before using it and try a test piece before committing.

Its been a while always in the background I am doing CAD work on the interior. I decided that it would easier to apply the interior cabin shell to the rib structure rather than use the kits interior shell. Kit interior shell So it was back to the drawing board here is the upgraded model rib structure with shell so I can bypass the kit parts. Top is the old interior structure I noticed that the beams were to wide and not to scale. Bottom is the redesign structure with shell. I am now able t

Although the scene is depicting a future apocalypse it is very sad that it looks like some parts of the world today. Food for thought, perhaps the unintended consequence of the post will start a conversation and thoughts to strive for a better world.

Give it a try 3D modeling is just a different part of modeling without the fumes 😆 Try your local hobby shop they are probably into it and can help you along.

Please have a look at Yeggi.com or GC Trader reputable sites. It's very inspiring to get involved in 3D printing. Printing has come way down as the technology is main stream. You can jump into the market for $400 getting everything you need. I think it's about the cost of a high end model kit with all the paint, aftermarket parts. I like https://www.elegoo.com/pages/elegoo-christmas-sales?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAmsurBhBvEiwA6e-WPGmMDQJgAfct_vmz7SXl_ZilGjCsOcxcHEYL9VGbyhFqAkVWPxZ75RoCfBMQAvD_BwE

I agree it takes time to learn for me between family and full-time work I maybe have a few hours in the late evening after all are fast asleep. I would also be open to helpful other modelers on a limited basis. Alternatively if you search for example jet engine .stl and purchase 3D files where the work is already done. Then it's just printing.

Here is an example of a custom part I created in about two hours ( junction power box ) I can scale up or down add it to the interior of the Seaking frame. Goodbye ordering from sketchy websites, goodbye import fees and shipping charges, goodbye waiting weeks for a piece of plastic to arrive in the mail. Get as close as you need to see detail its all here, no limits.

I am hoping the moderators will look at starting a 3D modeling forum to pass the craft onto those with an interests. I hate to say it but I think the after market upgrade kits will soon be dyeing a slow death now that modelers can create their own parts. There is a endless supply of research material to make your own parts accurately. It was a few projects ago that I got frustrated with cost and quality of upgrade kits, yes there is a up front cost to 3D printing but i have found over the course of the last year it has paid for itself. Having the ability to make parts the same way

Just looking at your work look forward to seeing it at the finish line very nice details.

Last two weeks have been challenging getting the curvature of the aft end. The frame is divided into three sections to accommodate printing 1. Forward cabin frame with door opening 2. Main cabin frame-doors and windows will be accommodated after printing. 3. Aft end cabin frame All sections were cut in half to be inlaid into the model prior to assembling the two halves. Here is half of the aft end. The middle section-Whole Middle section halved Front cabin half All parts asse