Jump to content
ARC Discussion Forums

iceman98

Members
  • Content Count

    38
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About iceman98

  • Rank
    Glue Required
  • Birthday 09/12/1998

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Athens
  • Interests
    Aerodynamics, Aircrafts, Formula 1, Running

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hello fellow modelers, This project had started from the April, but due to my limited time the progress was very slow and I didn't managed to post earlier. The kit I chose was Eduard's Fw 190 D-9 Late #8189 profi pack. I started assembling the first parts (cockpit, some gun bay parts, gears etc.) and then I continued with the priming. Afterwards I painted the cockpit and cockpits sidewalls with AK true metal silver, I used this layer as a base for the chipping. Then I painted using mostly AK's 3rd gen colors. Unfortunately I didn't have RLM 66 for the cockpit interior so I mixed it using reference pictures, for the mix I used Pale grey and black (1:3 ratio approx.). I painted the cockpit details using a 10/0 brush with 50-50 water diluted paint, I used the photo-edged parts and actual pictures as reference. Ι don't like the "flat photo-edged parts, for some details I cut the decals and I applied them in the correct position. For the weathering I used for the first time AK's waterpencils, I really liked the final result. Also I used Winsor & Newton Wintor and Abteilung oil paints. Currently I have glued the 2 fuselage parts and the wing together. The fitting is not the best but I can fix it with some putty (picture will be uploaded later). I would like to ask if someone has pictures of a similar finished model or actual pictures. Any commend is very useful because I am relatively new in the hobby (This is only fourth kit, I have finished 2 spitfires and I have a F 16 on hold).
  2. Hello, this Spitfire is my first complete build, I used it to gain some experience in airbrushing and basic techniques. For painting I used Humbrol Enamels (basic camo) and Tamiya and AK acrylics. For weathering I used Winsor & Newton and Abteilung oil paints (raw amber for fuel leaks, ivory black for smoke, dark rust for oil leaks and zinc white + raw umber for dust effect), also I used AK's paneliner for grey and blue camo (I know that looks overweathered but I had some accidents during masking). You can see that I tried some chipping (Never chip befor masking.....), for its base I used AK's true metal silver. I pre shaded the model with black color, but I post shade the darker colours with lighter tones. I would like to ask for some advice since I am new to the hobby. Now I can restart working on a 1/48 Eduard Fw 109 D9 (I will make a thread later I have a lot of questions about it as I have almost no idea for wwii airplanes) and I have also on hold a 1/48 Kinetic F 16 Block 52+, I am waiting for a resin exhaust nozzle.
  3. Hello, I am new in scale modeling. I used this kit (Dual Spitfire Combo) to gain some experience in airbrushing and basic techniques (I had an accident with one of the roundels but actually looks good). For painting the PRU Spitfire I used Tamiya and AK 3rd gen acrylics (camo). For weathering I used Winsor & Newton and Abteilung oil paints (raw amber for fuel leaks, ivory black for smoke, dark rust for oil leaks and zinc white + raw umber for dust effect), also I used AK's paneliner for grey and blue camo. For the metallic base for chipping I used AK's true metal silver. I pre shaded the model with black color. I would like to ask for some advice since I am new to the hobby. Now I can restart working on the Eduard's 1/48 Fw 190 D9,I also have on hold a 1/48 Kinetic F 16 Block 52+. Bonus Pics:
  4. Hi guys Here I will post some photos from the Spitfires, I am currently building. I would like to ask for some advice, since these are my first builds (alongside with a F 16). Unfortunately, I don't have photos from the early stages. I used the Spitfires mostly to gain some experience using airbrush. For airbrushing I used a H&S Ultra airbrush, for the PRU schemed airplane I used AK's 3rd gen acrylics, while for the day fighter I used Humbrol Enamels. Both models were primed with Mr Surfacer 1200 and preshaded with black color, for the metallic base I used AK's True Metal Silver. I manage to get a better surface quality using AK acrylics. A lesson that I've learned while painting is that "never chip before masking". I think that both of them look over weathered. For weathering I used some Winsor & Newton and Abteilung Oil paints (Ivory Black for smoke, Raw umber for fuel leaks, Raw umber + dark rust mix for oil leaks, Raw umber + zinc white mix for the dust effect) and AK's paneliner for Grey and Blue camo. For the decals I used Tamiya's Mark Fit Strong and Softener. For the PRU Spitfire I also used the same oil paints but with a much cleaner finish. Currently the F 16 is on hold because I am waiting the shipment of a resin exhaust nozzle, but know I feel more confident to continue the F 16.
  5. So I haven't posted for a while. I was working on the two Spitfires, in the next two days they will be finished. I finished working on the F 16 Nose, it looks very nice. Now I must glue the flaps, the slats and the vertical stabilizer, before that I would like to ask which is their correct position during parking? I found that I can't solve the problem with the exhaust nozzle, so I ordered a resin nozzle (Aires 4427), unfortunately I will receive it in a month.
  6. Thank you very much, I am trying to be ambitious in everything I do!! I will propably go for a satin finish on the day fighter and a glossier one in pru. As you can see I am trying to paint the airplanes with different wear grades. The day fighter was in service for more time.
  7. Hi, I am new to the scale modeling. Currently I am working on three different projects (2 1/72 Eduard RAF Spitfires and a 1/48 Kinetic HAF F 16). I am pretty familiar with modern jets (camo and variants), but I have almost no idea on WWII airplanes. So, as the theme says, I would like to ask what finish did the RAF Spitfires have MATT or Gloss? I am building two Mk XVIs one with PRU scheme and one on standard day fighter scheme. In the picture you can find the actual PRU aircraft.
  8. Hi Today I started the assembly of the nose section. For me it was the section with the biggest fitting issues. But I manage to solve them using blu tack and a lot of putty. Unfortunately some rivets were filled with putty or sanded down, I would like to ask if you have some refernce pictures in order to re open them?
  9. Today I started the assembly of the nose section. I used blu tack to position the side parts. With the addition of blu tack I prevented the sinking of the parts. Then I placed the parts and I prepared them for putty application using masking tape. I tried to have a smooth transition on the sides and I left a large gap on the bottom. I used an old blade on my hobby knife to apply the putty. In order to properly fill the gaps I applied putty 4 times. Much better than before.... Then I started sanding them, I used grit 600, 1500, 3000 wet sandpapers soaked with AK Odourless Thinner (I believe that you can use also white spirit or turpentine), thinner helped me to achieve a smooth result really fast. Finally I reopened the filled holes and rescribed the panel lines
  10. You can also use it in this case. I added some and then I positioned the part. I will post some pictures tomorrow. Also, I will try to change the images with the ones from Flickr. I don't have the experience to rate this kit, I am sure that I will build more Kinetic F 16s in the future. (I have already ordered one) Of course, it has some fitting issues (from the biggest one): Nose: you must use something to prevent sinking like @scotthldr said, blu tack seems like working fine, but I haven't glued them yet Fuselage: Near the wing slats and flaps and also near the horizontal stabilizers’ attachment point, with a lot of putty and sanding everything was solved Exhaust Nozzle: The nozzle consists of four major parts: the nozzle itself, the afterburner chamber (I know that consists of 4 parts itself), a connection part for the nozzle and the afterburner chamber and an outer part. In my kit for an unknown reason there is a 1mm gap between the nozzle and the outer part (I don't feel the need to change the nozzle with a resin kit since its well detailed but I must find a way to solve it). Inlet: It has some issues with the outer part, but nothing serious you can fill it with putty Worth mention The fitting between the CFTs (You will probably use them since Polish air force uses Block 52s equipped with them) and fuselage: I didn't use the holes designed for it, but I used reference pictures and also their actual silhouette, everything came up nicely, but only after a lot of tries and some sanding on the CFTs, there are no large gaps, but you should be careful.
  11. Hellow fellow models!!! My name is Thanos, I am a mechanics student from Athens, Greece. One of my passions are airplanes. I spend the most of my day in home, due to the corona virus outbreak. So, I started scrolling in YouTube and I found lots of aircraft modeling videos. I didn’t waste any time and I bought my first kits, (2 Eduard Spitfires (1/72) and a Kinetic F 16 Block 52+ HAF (1/48), which are actually my favorite aircrafts), paints and an H&S Ultra 2 in 1 airbrush. I had almost no experience in scale modeling (only a Revell A320 and a Revell Leopard 2A6, almost 5 years ago), but I have a lot of experience in general manufacturing, as I used to spend the most of my day in my university’s laboratories, prior to virus outbreak. I had already made a thread about this project in jet modeling sector, but I decide to post also some pictures here. Anfortunately I don't have many pictures from the first stages of the manufacturing. For this project I am using the following Kinetic 48028 F-16C Block 52+ Hellenic Air Force Eduard 648013 F-16 seat for KINETIC Eduard 648011 F-16 late wheels for KINETIC I started with the cockpit, its construction was very easy. I used reference photos from a book called "Vipers under the skin". I used AK's 3rd gen acrylics for as base colors (Intense black as priming and then I sprayed 80% sky gray + 20% england grey as base color). For the details I also used some AKs 3rd gen, some TAMIYA acrylics and Humbrol Enamels. For the airbrushing I used the 0.2mm nozzle and for the detailing I used DaVinci NOVA 10/0 and Winsor and Newton 111 3/0 synthetic brushes. Then I worked with the inlet and the exhaust. Inlet I made some fitting testing und I painted it inside. I used white with very little sky gray, also I used Mr.Surfacer 1200 in order to fill some gaps. The overall fitting of the outer part was good but I used some puty to fill the gaps. Afterburner chamber and middle part: As you can see in the pictures I tried to fill some flaws caused by the mould. At first I painted with AK's 3rd gen Intense White mixed with only a little of Sky Grey. Then I sprayed some smoke lines (following my referense pictures and my experience with the engine) with Intense Black, in the end I further weathered it with a mix (using again the refernce pictures) of Winsor & Newton Wintor Ivory Black and Abteilung Dark Rust oil paints (I used a No 8 Synthetic Flat Brush). I didn't thin the mix prior to the application (as this oils have relatively low viscosity), but I only used AK's odorless enamel thinner to remove the excess paint. I used the same processes for the afterburner chamber and the exhaust nozzle connector but I tried to make a heavier weathering, using two tones of the weathering mix (a blacker and a browner one). Exhaust nozzle: For the inside part of the exhaust nozzle I used a mix of White and Medium Grey mix, trying to replicate the ceramic material. And I weathered it using different tones of the weathering mixture. The most difficult part was the exterior painting. As a base I painted it black and then with natural steel metalic color. I made a mix using black and medium grey to paint the smoke and then I tried to shade every fin using the previous weathering mix (Ivory Black and Dark rust). Wheel Bay: The assembly of the main wheel bay was relatively easy, also I made some parts of the electrical harness using copper cables. I made preshadowing using black colour and then I painted white. I used AK's paneliner for grey camo and Winsor & Newton Wintor Ivory Black & Raw Umber oil colours. Fuselage and CFTs There weren't many fitting issues, but before the final assembly, I made lots of dry fittings. The biggest issue I had was with the gun cover, which had a slightly smaller curvature, after extensive use of putty and sanding, I think that I manage to fix it. The CFTs dry fitting was also really good, I didn't open holes and I positioned them using their silhouette. For the side nose parts I used some blu tack in order to adjust them, I haven't glued them since I am not sure if I must fix the nose first. (just to be sure I will add some bolts as counter-weight). The only major problems where those marked on the picture but I managed to repair them. Since I am new to the hobby, I would like to hear your opinion about my project.
  12. So today I finished the most of the sanding (Ifixed some large gaps on the CFTS and the parts mentioned in the previous post), but still there is a lot word to do, especially in the nose section. Also I tried the fitment of almost every part of the fuselage and repaired some problems caused by the molds. For the side nose parts I used some blu tack in order to adjust them, I haven't glued them since I am not sure if I must fix the nose first. (just to be sure I will add some bolts as counter-weight).
  13. Thank you very much! I have started building the airframe. These days I had limited time, so I decided to prepare the Spitfires for priming, in order to test my skills there and not on the F 16. But tomorrow I am planning finishing preparing the F 16, doing some sanding and gluing the flaps and the slats. But I have some questions regarding the marked part of the aircraft For the red-marked parts: should I cover it with putty and make it flat or should I just cover only the connection (I will not cover the hole for the horizontal stablizers)? For the blue-marked part: should I cover all gaps between CFTs and fuselage before or after prinming?
  14. Hello again!!! Today I found out that there is also and a WIP topic in the forum, so I will also post some images there. As you can see in the pictures I glued the CFTs and assembled the vertical stabilizer. The CFTs' fitting was really good, especially on the left one. While building the vertical stabilizer the following question came into my mind: should I paint the vertical stabilizer and the fuselage separately and then glue them or glue them and paint them together?
  15. Today I finally assemblied the three fuselaga parts. There weren't many fitting issues, but before the final assembly, I made lots of dry fittings. The biggest issue I had was with the gun cover, which had a slightly smaller curvature, after extensive use of putty and sanding, I think that I manage to fix it. As for the nose section I hadn't too much problems, but I haven't glued the nose and the side panels yet. The CFTs dry fitting was also really good, I didn't open holes and I positioned them using their silhouette.
×
×
  • Create New...