terryt

I'm pretty sure the the deicer boots were applied over the leading edges of the the wing and tail surfaces. The leading edges were not faired over with aluminum panels.

Liquitex makes a retarder sold under that name RETARDER! If you are in Chicago, try Art supply (Chicago Airbrush) for retarder. http://www.artsupply.com/

Be careful the parts from a Badger will not fit the Harbor Freight airbrush. Even though they look similar the threads are different. Harbor Freight used to sell three different tips/needle/air cap sizes, they were .20mm .30mm and .50mm for their six airbrush combo pack. The parts fit the Harbor Freight Deluxe airbrush, however, the needle is shorter and without the ball at the end.

A crown cap on any airbrush will let you get closer to the subject without blow back causing problems with the paint flow. The crown cap allows air to escape out the sides when you spray. It should allow you to get closer and therefore finer lines.

The airbrushes are the same as the one listed in the first post. I have three of single Harbor Freight airbrushes, they are a knock off of the Badger 150, however, the parts aren't interchangeable with the Badger. You can get three different nozzle/needle/tips for both airbrushes from the online Harbor Freight website. The airbrushes perform like the 150 and at around $15.00 they are a bargain.

The dial on the end piece is to adjust the spray pattern. For the Infinity and Silverline airbrushes there are several combinations of needle/nozzle and tips you can get. They are .15mm, .20mm, .40mm and .60mm. Parts can be purchased from http://precisiongermanairbrush.com/ If you live in the United States, they seem to have the best prices on parts for the H&S airbrushes, because they are the distributor. I gotten parts orders in three days, no need to stock up on spares. Just order what you think you will need from the start.

The newer release of the B-29 doesn't contain the atomic bombers decals, although, it does include all the parts to make one. If you want the markings for the atomic bombers you should look in to after market or the original decals for the Monogram B-29

In addition to the above, Canadian Customs consider solvent paint and such as dangerous materials. Link to PDF file explains everything. Those of you in Canada that have received solvent type paints (flammable) should consider yourself lucky. Because the memorandum states that flammable liquids and cellulose solids or liquids (lacquer based paints) cannot be shipped via the Canadian mail system. http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=ca...WznAw1rmmzguRzg

The current Revell A-26 with the six gun nose has the top and bottom turret. It's same plastic as the Pro Modeler A-26B with different newer decals.

The notice on the first post is Canadian Customs will confiscate any solvent based paints and destroy them, has nothing to do with the shipper.

Well MoFo: Read this thread and see what you think. http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index....212915&st=0

You are out of luck since Canada implemented a restriction on solvent based paints. You won't be able to get paint with solvent in it ever more. The only you can get Alclad shipped in the states it ground shipping on USPS, UPS and FED EX. The only way to get it is to drive to the states and smuggle it back to Canada.

You have to loosen the needle chuck and apply a little pressure to the needle and make sure it seat in the tip. Once done tighten the chuck, that should fix your problem.

Yes Home Depot or an Auto Parts store should have it it spray can. Make sure you don't us anything that has petroleum in it, as it may attack the seal in the air valve.

The owner of Engine & Things Passed away awhile back and whatever you see in stock at Roll Models is probably the last of the line. If you want one Roll Models is the last hope. I just checked Great Models Web store, no luck on the R-3350.

You may be one of the fortunate ones, however, when I used Redab by Badger for the air valve assembly on my airbrushes it caked up and caused the air valve to stick. If you are using the Iwata stuff it may be a different formula. I always use a silicon lubricant on my air valve assembly and haven't had a stuck valve since.

I've made decals with the kit you are talking about and didn't have any problems. You have to spray the sealer on in a few light coats and let it dry for a few hours. It may take a little experimentation to get it right. Here is a link to basically the same procedure. http://www.bare-metal.com/Experts-Choice-Decal-Film.html

Sounds like you got everything together right, you just have to make sure the needle chuck is tight against the spring screw. Here is a break down of the Badger 150, look at the far right for the parts I mentioned. http://www.dixieart.com/Parts_for_Badger_1...55_175_200.html

Now you have it to the point, it may be a little hazy, just dip it in Future and you will have a nice shiny clear canopy.

I suggest you use some type of silicon lubricant, it won't attack the neoprene seal in the air valve. What ever you do don't us needle lubricant, I did once and ended up with a sticky goopy mess which made the trigger stick worse. I had to disassemble the whole air valve and clean it up with dish soap.

Roll Models has the R3350 engine you can use in the 1/48 scale B-29. Just go to their website and do a search for the part number. ENG48091 CW R-3350-23, -35, -51, -57, CA-2 18 cyl. long nose box for B-29 Series, F-13A, B-32, Boeing P2B, Constellation 49,649,749 Engines & Things 1/48 Resin US Engines

You might consider the new Paasche SI Internal Mix Single Action Airbrush. It comes with a #3 head assembly, however, just like the H you can get #1 and #3 assemblies. Only a suggestion. http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/nepasisiacin1.html

The cap assembly portion that goes in the airbrush is the same diameter in the Paasche and Badger. You can also use them in Iwata bottom feed. The Paasche H and Badger 350 cap assembly is also usable in all the airbrushes, however, it will give you an extreme down angle of the airbrush if you use it with other than the H or 350. Most bottom feed airbrushes use the same diameter to connect the assemble to the airbrush.

Scale Aircraft Conversions makes metal replacements for the Tamiya P-47, you should be able to use them on the Hasagawa. http://store.spruebrothers.com/148-scale-a...050-p20555.aspx

If all else fails try drilling the part out with progressively larger sizes of drills. Once you get the wall of the jammed part thin enough the bit should grab the part and remove it.