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jefferysl

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About jefferysl

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  1. I'm building a Sanger KI-21 IIb with rhe dorsal 12.7mm turret. Unfortunately, I've not been able to find any references to model the layout. Anyone have some pictures?
  2. Tailspin: Sounds like a flexible technique that is easier than what I'm doing. I was shooting for an effect that you'd get like a Squadron or Falcon canopy. As you can imagine, doing curved frames is difficult using my planned method. Then there is the durability question...what happens when a frame falls off the master during rough handling? Using your method, I would only have to sand the inaccurate framing off the casting and vacuform. Well, I have a number of vacs to try out different techniques on, thanks for the input.
  3. Jack-man; I'm cementing the strips to the casting with cyanoacrylate glue, then I coat the casting with future. I then spray on a coat of gray primer. This reveals any bumps,etc. I sand the bumps, give another coat of primer, and finish it off with a final coat of future to give it a glossy finish. I'm hoping that this will be robust enough to do several vacuform canopies, as you always have several that don't turn out good enough. I use a pretty crude vacuform technique that is home made, yet I've had really good results over the years. I made a box out of aluminum sheet, drilled ho
  4. Well, I'm having very good success. I stopped by Hobby Lobby and picked up PermaStone, Seal-In (adds strength), and AIRID (mold release for plaster castings). Results are fantastic. The castings are very hard, smooth as glass, and sandable. I am now investigating how to do the framing. My current idea is to draw the frames on the canopy with a pencil, then cement strips of copper foil to the casting. To add strength to the adhesion of the frames to the casting, I'll coat it with Future and then prime it. I'll try to post pictures, not sure if this will work....
  5. I just picked up an Academy P-38F "Glacier Girl" at my club's annual model swap. I'd like to do Rex Barber's P-38G from the Yamamoto mission. Can it be built as a "G"?
  6. I use clear decal film. I spray the interior color first, then the exterior, and then follow up with decal fixative and flat coat. I then cut it into strips and apply to the canopy as a decal. It works for me.
  7. Thanks for the replies. I decided to go with plaster of paris with a hardener I found at Hobby Lobby. I intend to use copper foil for canopy framing. I've got Rain-X, so thanx, chukw. By the way, did you get the wheel well problem solved on the 410? Scott
  8. Well, according to my drawings I'm looking for a diameter of 1 1/8". I checked some of my old pill bottles and, though not perfect (about 1 1/4") they are very close....close enough that I can blend the kit supplied cowling lips on one end and the cooling flaps on the other. The demarcation between the sheet plastic carrier/ cowling parts is pretty indistinct. This is a Combat Robert's Model's vacuform....it'll take some work. I had concerns about the kit supplied cowlings being out of round. Thanks for the replies, but I think Max's idea is the one I'm going with.
  9. I need some tubing (approximately 1" diameter) to replace the cowlings on a 1/48th Cant Z-1007. Plastruct and Evergreen don't make tubing large enough, and I don't need to purchase 6 pallets worth from a wholesale dealer. Any suggerstions?
  10. Thanks George. It appears that the male mold was chipped as the flaw is a concave, roughly surfaced dent in the top of the wing about 1.5 inches in diameter and it obliterates the aileron demarcation line. Plastic may very well be my best option....strong and can be scribed! Just kind of a drag to have to deal with it. Anyway....thanks again.
  11. tberres2; Thanks for the reply. I have Milliput black...what would you use for the mold release agent?
  12. I'm trying to make a replacement canopy for an old yellowed vac canopy. What I want to do is fill the old canopy with a compound that will harden without bonding with the "master". I can then separate the old canopy from the casting and use the casting as a male mold to either smash form or vacuform a new canopy. What should I use for making the casting? I'm thinking plaster of Paris but am unsure if it is strong enough.
  13. I Google'd Pat Hawkey and got a number of books and articles that he's authored. One of which he uses epoxy putty to reinforce weak spots in vacuform kits could be very useful in backfilling the vacuform pimples. Still looking at how to fix the really big flaws I spoke about earlier...thanks for the tip Irv.
  14. Well, I just took delivery of a Combat Roberts Models Cant Z-1007 in 1/48 scale. I knew what I was in for in general, but couldn't see paying $250 for the resin kit. Anyway, there is a serious blemish to the wing where it looks as if the mold was damaged. I need to cover a 1 1/2 inch circular area with a material that is sandable, won't flake off under stress, and can be scribed. Right now I'm thinking miliput, but that stuff dries rock hard and is difficult to sand (especially if you leave it too long). Same-same for superglue. I used fiberglass impregnated Bondo on another kit, it just
  15. The Huntsville Plastic Modelers' Society's 35th Annual Model Show is being held on 1 October 2011 at the Huntsville Jaycees Building. The address: Huntsville Jaycee's Building 2180 Airport Road Huntsville, Alabama 35801 Show Flier:http://hpmsweb.topcities.com/ Hope to see you there!
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