Incaroad

I don't know how you do it, but you seem to be able to assemble kit's with such speed it's unbelievable! I'm still working on getting the intake and exhaust smoothed out for paint! LOOKS AWESOME Darren! Cheers Larry

I agree that this is a GREAT first release. Questions: 1. With regards to top and bottom are you suggesting to attach each outer wing to the inner wing/fuselage before joining the top and bottom? I was going to do that, but decided, due to how the upper wing attaches (covers you mentioned) and all to opt with assembling the outer wings first, then to the inner after. We'll see how that plays out because I too think another kit will likely be needed. 2. On my kit, the main wheel well outer edge had to be filed down quite a bit so the top would sit, without forcing it, to the bottom. After

Update sir!!! Hoping all is well and you've had good fortune with the Intruder! Cheers Larry

I did not know Monogram made a 1/48th MiG-25, nor a 1/72nd for that matter... Are you talking about the Revell kit? Forgive me if that was a Tongue-n-cheek type of reference. Looks like this one is going together well... Cheers -Larry McCarley

The heck with the wing fold stuff, that Aileron hinge looks MAGNIFICENT! We talked about that some time ago and am glad to see yours onto a kit! NICE! The wing fold area looks nice too... Happy New Year! -Larry McCarley

A shot of the very nice Monogram kit built in 1983 using the Detail and Scale decals just after they came out. What a GREAT kit it was for the time! In some ways it really looks better to me than the Hasegawa kit did after I built it. Happy New Year! -Larry

For those that don't have the link http://www.micro-tools.com/ Cheers Larry McCarley 21045

That looks really nice, I like IT! Wish I could find one for a reasonable price! Cheers Larry McCarley 21045

The two shots I have of BuNo 165804 do in fact have NAVY on the side... Shots from Alert 5 Cheers Larry McCarley 21045

Here is what I did some time ago with the A2D-1 cockpit... Didn't like the Vacuformed tub nor the white metal stuff, so I used the Ginter A2D-1 book and made it myself. I tried to duplicate the knobs like the pictures show and I do think they look the part. Tough time consuming process but it worked. The brass toggle guards were fun to make too. I know where you are coming from man, sometimes just to speed on thing up would be great. But then, you find that you have to have 15 sets to make one stinkin side console. Exactly what Airscale did with there instruments. Happy Modeling and Thanks

Well Ryan, I'm glad you've put that punch to good use. I tried it that way many times but prefer one at a time for some reason. I found another way to use the punch with my little drill press that produces better results, like when you are punching out instrument faces from Airscale or my favorite, "Waldron instruments!" I can get them MUCH closer to the instrument diameter this way and more concentric than through the plexiglass. And Elmo, if you'd like a punch like Ryan is talking about let me know and I'll dig one up and send it to ya... Cheers, and Happy Holidays! -Larry

Durka Durka! LOL! Some of them thar switches and knobs are kinda hard to make accurately at times. Fun to do when they are coming out right though! Cheers you Old Fart! :lol:

Something like the Archers Rivets would be nice... Although with your skill, as a plastic surgeon, whatever you come up with will likely hit the spot. But cutting them out like the real thing does have advantages... All the switches and knobs where built that way for this cockpit... Cheers Larry McCarley 21045

Here is one of the best shots of a Super Hornets engine exhaust... http://data.primeportal.net/hangar/tom_adkins/fa-18e_vfa-143/fa-18e_vfa-143_16_of_17.JPG Hope this may help. Cheers Larry McCarley 21045

Academy could have set their F-4 series apart from the rest had they done the windscreen like Tamiya did their 1/32 P-51D and the gorgeous F4U windscreens. Then nobody would have anything to complain about in regards to the windscreen. Other things could be complained about till the cow comes home. But, the Academy F-4's so far, really have a great outline. Cheers Larry McCarley 21045

This is an airshow demo at China Lake in 79 or early 80's. Yep there was a Dummy in the back seat and it was right out in front of runway 32! We used to have GREAT demo's; Sidewinder launches, Mk 82 HE's, ZUNI's, A-7E's firing it's gun, and whatever else you could Imagine like the SNORT Track launching sleds, it was impressive. Not to mention all the low flyin aircraft doing their show's. Cheers Larry McCarley 21045

Cool! If you need any of the pictures I have let me know and I'll get you a CD full of everything I've taken so far. When did it get Uprated J-79's? Reason I ask is; Danny Coreman's book has pictures of when the engines were taken out before it arrived back here in China Lake and they look like the earlier J-79's... Would they have changed them back and forth? Another shot back in the day......... Cheers Larry

From the Academy F-4B you could do the YF-4J airframes... I know I'll be doing 151473 at some point. I might even attempt it like this picture: I realize that it was an F-4B converted internally to the YF-4J but still it would be a "J" for sure! Just a couple ¢. ;)/>/> Cheers Larry McCarley 21045

Marc, I agree with your assessment of Elmo's work! Just looking at his work inspires me! And his techniques are awesome! A very good place to get Stainless Hypo tubing is here... http://www.mcmaster.com/#micro-tubing/=ndj15i along with many other tools at reasonable costs. Depending on where you live they deliver overnight! Although the pieces are at least 12" long and sometimes a little expensive you have every size you can think of available. Hope this helps some. Cheers Larry McCarley 21045

There is nothing better to strip paint than Mr. Color Thinner, either leveling or lacquer. A little expensive when purchased, but I bet cheaper than the kit you bought. I used less than a 4 oz. to strip a model painted in 1985 and it did not attack the plastic. It had a combination of MM solvent based paint, future and clear flat of Poly-S type. Marvelous stuff. Cheers Larry McCarley 21045

I know that feeling well too Chuck. I went to a contest in central California in the 80's. I entered 3 aircraft one of which was a F-4E. After the judging and the awards were being distributed I placed 2nd with the F-4E but I received "Best Phantom II." The first place aircraft was indeed a Phantom II too. My 2nd place F-4E went to the NATS that same year and guess what? It took 1st in 1/48th Medium Jets. That was a tough category back then, I have no idea what it's like now days. I best get my butt in gear! I was more confused than upset that the F-4E took 2nd and Best Phantom II, but what

Exactly! Phew, I'm glad I was close on what I'd heard... My memory is coming back; FINALLY! LOL! And, I'm sure you are ABSOLUTELY correct that John's F-15C should have been the winner. Cheers Larry McCarley 21045

Can't argue that one... BTW Like your QF-4N from PMTC on the Phantom Group build page. Nice! Cheers Larry McCarley 21045

Yeah, just ask John Vojtech about his 32nd scale F-15C that didn't take 1st place at the NATS! What was it, a couple years ago, or was it last year... His F-15C was something spectacular to see, but a couple basic flaws, as I understand, made the other guy's 32nd Jet better constructed. It didn't seem to matter that John listed 1000's of parts he put into the Eagle, it all boiled down to missing a couple simple things... What was it; ejector pin marks in the Intake? Personally, I can't wait to take something to a contest again... I just can't seem to finish ANYTHING; win, loose, or draw...

Netz has you covered, brake fluid is your friend, brake cleaner will ruin what you are trying to strip. By far the best stripper of paint from a model is Mr. Color thinner or Leveling thinner. This stuff, while a little expensive, is THE best stripper out there. Scalecoat made a nice stripper (long gone by now?) but it was expensive too. Buy the 400ml bottle of Mr. Color thinner and it's more cost effective. I stripped a model painted in 1986 with this stuff and I was very impressed! Take a look... Before After Cheers Larry McCarley