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BraggPeak

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  1. This is the photo from anft.net, which is Dark ghost gray for top, light ghost grey for bottom, and FS35237 for the side of the front fuselage. Fine molds kit, FS35237 for top, light ghost for bottom and dark ghost grey for side of front fuselage. GWH, light ghost grey on bottom and dark ghost for top, with FS35237 near the cockpit. Oh, my gosh, they are all different !
  2. Hi everyone, in the progress of painting my Fine molds F-14. I got some confusing info about which color to use for F-14 low visibility scheme. The Fine molds instruction calls for FS35237 Grayish blue on the upper surface, and light ghost grey for the bottom half. But, in my opinion, FS35237 seems too dark (I used Vallejo paint) as compared to the reference photos as well as the stock photos of their own kits. The Great wall kit instruction calls for dark ghost grey for the upper surface, which seems agree with other F-14 paint scheme references. Presumably, the GWH instruction is
  3. What do you use if there is gap between horizontal surfaces ? i.e. one panel surface is higher/lower than the other
  4. Do we know which company will release and distribute this kit ?
  5. Unconfirmed source says they are working on a 1/48 F-14. No release date yet. But I wish there would be a decent mig 19 kit other than the trumpeter one.
  6. I tried this recipe and had some interesting results. Since I don't have the retarder medium (70.597), I replaced it with the retarder from the premium line and mixed with model air paint with 50/50 ratio at 20 psi as suggested It works very well with my PS770 0.18mm airbrush, still have some tip dry, but the line is very fine and crispy. I usually remove the cap when doing the detail work, a damp cotton swap by the side is a easy fix. I guess I should increase the ratio of retarder to fully get rid of the tip dry ? Do I need to add a bit more thinner as well ? I tried the same mix o
  7. They separate it into four pieces thus it is easier to paint and weather the inner exhaust. When you assemble them together, there isn't much putty filling to do b/c there is gap between exhaust nozzle leaf anyway.
  8. Yes, that is exactly what I meant, thanks for posting the link again.
  9. There was a post in this form a few months ago, comparing the shape of wing in Academy/GWH/Hasegawa and Finemolds. I remember the conclusion is Academy and GWH are the most accurate ones, Hasegawa and Finemolds suffer the same error. Tried to search but couldn't find the link now.
  10. Probably I am spaying it too thick. I have been spaying it at 16-19 psi, so it is probably too low thus the paint doesn't spread out enough. Someone suggested spraying at >20psi , will give that a try.
  11. I used to spray Alclad Aqua gloss straight out of the bottle, but it is a bit thick. Sometimes it is hard to get a good panel line wash with thick layers. I was wondering if anyone thin the auqa gloss for airbrushing? I just get Vallejo Premium airbush matt and satin varnish, do they need to be thinned as well ? Thanks
  12. Check this http://www.anft.net/f-14/f14-detail-tarps.htm. In most of the reference photos I have seen, it was installed on second row weapon bays.
  13. There is a different airbrush retarder from the premium line, is there any difference with the old sticky retarder medium ?
  14. Hi everyone I want to try mottling with airbrush since it is quite useful for pre-shading. I mostly use Vallejo model air which is acrylic, with a 6 : 2 : 1 (paint : thinner : flow improver) ratio at 18 psi which works fine. But for mottling small dots, I suppose we need to put more thinner with a lower PSI. What thinning ratio and air pressure do you usually use ? Just want to solicit some general suggestions/experiences here. Thanks a lot !
  15. It might also depends on the type of paint you are going to use in the future. Some airbrushes don't take acrylic paint (like vallejo) very well. Great care needs to be taken to prevent or reduce tip dry. Air brushing narrow lines are also challenging. I heard that the nozzle in Iwata HP-CS has a different design, very similar to those in Harder & Steenbeck, it allows more air flow, thus less tip dry and easier to clean. You may also need to consider how to get spare parts for the airbrush. I have to replace needles and nozzles when I just started airbrushing and didn't quite know ho
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