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About BraggPeak

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  1. I think for centreline KAB 1500, it still uses BD4-USKM-1 pylon regardless of where it is mounted to. One of the photos at http://www.amigomodels.ru/product/amc72071/# showed this configuration. Not sure about Kh-35, but in general, the pylon for Russian ordnance is independent of which station it is mounted to. There is a separate adapter that is specific to mounting stations.
  2. Try search RS 48-0160 1:48 ResKit BD3-USK Pylons
  3. I think you are actually right, BD3-USK-A should be the standard adapters for bombs upto 500lb on Su-35. I found this reference photo of KAB-500SE with BD3-USK-A, probably taken during the Syria operation. Reskit and AMC both have it in 1/48 scale. Thank you !
  4. Hi folks, I bought a set of KAB-500kr bombs from RES-Kit for my Su-35 build. But I just realized this type of bombs use a BD-3U adapter, different from the other weapons. Neither Res-Kit or AMC has included the adapters in their resin kits. Any idea where I can get the BD-3 adapter in 1/48 scale ? Thanks
  5. What was the thinning ratio you used ? I have one recently opened gunze C308, but somehow the 2:1 ratio is not working very well
  6. Just wondering what kind of basecoat do you guys use before airbrushing chrome or chrome silver. I tested with Gunze Black surfacer 1500 as base coat and MRP Chrome on top of it, the end result is almost like a matt aluminium, not as reflective and shining as I expected. Probably because the black surfacer 1500 is not glossy enough ?
  7. Did anyone notice that it seems there is a national shortage of future/pledge floor gloss ? I had about less than a quarter of bottle left, enough for a canopy sit but I still use it for what it is supposed to, i.e floor finish. Now, it is out of stock on walmart amd homedepot, price also doubled if not tripled on amazon, ebay, etc. What is going on?
  8. Hi everyone, I am thinking about mixing the Gunze surfacer with thinner and store it in glass bottle with eye dropper. This way I don't need to mix them every time before airbushing, just pour it into the cup on the airbrush. Quite convenient, right ? Any downside or unexpected side effects with storing the pre-thinned Gunze primer for a long period of time ? I also have MRP which is pre-thinned acrylic lacquer. I noticed that if the bottle stay on the shelf for a long time, there is some separation of the pigment, but a vigorous shaking seems would solve the problem. Thanks
  9. This is the photo from anft.net, which is Dark ghost gray for top, light ghost grey for bottom, and FS35237 for the side of the front fuselage. Fine molds kit, FS35237 for top, light ghost for bottom and dark ghost grey for side of front fuselage. GWH, light ghost grey on bottom and dark ghost for top, with FS35237 near the cockpit. Oh, my gosh, they are all different !
  10. Hi everyone, in the progress of painting my Fine molds F-14. I got some confusing info about which color to use for F-14 low visibility scheme. The Fine molds instruction calls for FS35237 Grayish blue on the upper surface, and light ghost grey for the bottom half. But, in my opinion, FS35237 seems too dark (I used Vallejo paint) as compared to the reference photos as well as the stock photos of their own kits. The Great wall kit instruction calls for dark ghost grey for the upper surface, which seems agree with other F-14 paint scheme references. Presumably, the GWH instruction is
  11. What do you use if there is gap between horizontal surfaces ? i.e. one panel surface is higher/lower than the other
  12. Do we know which company will release and distribute this kit ?
  13. Unconfirmed source says they are working on a 1/48 F-14. No release date yet. But I wish there would be a decent mig 19 kit other than the trumpeter one.
  14. I tried this recipe and had some interesting results. Since I don't have the retarder medium (70.597), I replaced it with the retarder from the premium line and mixed with model air paint with 50/50 ratio at 20 psi as suggested It works very well with my PS770 0.18mm airbrush, still have some tip dry, but the line is very fine and crispy. I usually remove the cap when doing the detail work, a damp cotton swap by the side is a easy fix. I guess I should increase the ratio of retarder to fully get rid of the tip dry ? Do I need to add a bit more thinner as well ? I tried the same mix o
  15. They separate it into four pieces thus it is easier to paint and weather the inner exhaust. When you assemble them together, there isn't much putty filling to do b/c there is gap between exhaust nozzle leaf anyway.
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