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cyberdan

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About cyberdan

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  1. Thanks for the reply Bob, I actually thought about that but was concerned about the O rings with lacquer thinner eating through them. When I looked at this the answer was depending on what type of rubber the O ring is made of and there is no way for me to tell what kind it is of course. I'll take that advice as a last resort if no one else comes back with a "safer solution". Thanks again and much appreciated H
  2. Hi All, Back to the hobby after about 11 years due to some vision problems that are stabilized now and had a question about a suitable cleaner/thinner. I know this may have been asked before in different ways and I did look but found the answers to be inconclusive in my opinion. I have been finishing a model I started 11 years ago which required some priming and painting and below are the sequence of events :) : -used Model master Acryl primer in my airbrush (Which came out very smooth and adhered very well to the parts) -Did some quick flush and p
  3. Hi, I'm replying to both Hajo and Demicula, No I'm not talking about the floatation devices, the ones I'm trying to point to are just below and aft the sliding door towards the tail, they are three small almost quarter of acircle shape and painted the same colour of the aircraft. Demicula, Please check your Email.
  4. Hi, I'm replying to both Hajo and Demicula, No I'm not talking about the floatation devices, the ones I'm trying to point to are just below and aft the sliding door towards the tail, they are three small almost quarter of acircle shape and painted the same colour of the aircraft. Demicula, Please check your Email.
  5. I'll get the decals from my spares. the issue is really the arabic numerals which have to be painted by hand. numbers were applied after delivery to both sides roughly where the G-BDML was and then repeated in smaller scall just below each pilot's window (772 and 775 are two of these numbers) I'll try to load the scrapped aircraft pictures (yes they were scrapped and sold to the Australian Navy in 2004, and unlike some believe they retained thier blue colour throughout thier service life with the Egyptian Navy). Hany
  6. Thanks Dean, I intend to use Tamiya X4 Blue it seams to be the closest even in sunlight (Yes I did a test patch). As for the lower surfaces Gunze H67 RLM Light blue + alittle white should do the trick. Bu the way those hook-ups are on both sides. any ideas what they are? Thanks again, Hany
  7. :huh: Graet pictures and great timing too, I'm starting to build the Egyptian Navy ASW version. Can you please clarify/identify the three structures just aft and below the main sliding door? Are they torpedo mounts, and what kind of a torpedo would it be?. Thanks for the help. Hany
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