FrereLeO
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Posts posted by FrereLeO
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Thanks for your comments.
(Check 28th of Oct 2008 on the homepage of ARC and you will understand what I mean)It was my first idea. But after to have finished the build, I thought it was a pity to hide the work.
Your ~450Kb photos are a killer for us 56Kers, but it was well worth the wait. Excellent.Sorry John.
I didn’t paid attention when I posted the pics.
Cheers
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Cheers
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Hi, here are some pics :
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Hi gentlemen and thanks for your kind words.
Sorry for the delay but I didn't receive notification email
I'll try to put photos of finished model, ASAP
I've looked but keep getting the OEZ/Kopro version instead.Good choice.
The OEZ model is more accurate and I think the build will be easier.
I had the same problem, but Philippe send me all picsMy pleasure, Kresimir
Have you received the documentation ?
Cheers
Philippe
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I have rarely seen a work brought to perfection like that. :(
I'm admiring in the face of finesse and precision of your build.
It is a great time of modelling.
Hats off, sir.
:P
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Superb and imaginative. :(
I like it.
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Really impressive build :(
The explanations of your process are very clear and useful.
Thanks to share them with us
:P
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Merci Pat.
...maybe better......Et encore perfectible. ;-)
Aplus
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In situation, with some accessories :
See you soon, with a Mirage 2000c Eduard build.
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The mast was scratchbuilt. It doesn’t exist in the box .
The clear parts are very thin and it’s not “a piece of cake†to glue them in place :
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Hello,
first, I wish you an happy New Year.
How did you achieve this?I used a brush soaked in Mig’s pigment diluted with turpentine.
This build is finished.
The weathering around the cockpit was made with very diluted paint and Mig’s pigment :
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A little bit of silvering
Bye
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Thanks.
How did you dent the wheel fender?I use a ball cutter. Then I polish the plastic to round the corners.
End of the weathering of underwing :
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To finish, the washes.
Payne's Grey for the engraved lines, Sepia for the shadows et Raw Umber for the flaps and horizontal stabiliser :
Bye
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The decals are very thin and when they are in place, it’s impossible to adjust them :
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I spray a blue, lighter than the Polish Blue, and I put again some drops of Maskol. Then, I finish with the definite color :
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On the model, I spray P.A. Steel on the area which will be scratched. Then, I put a drop of Maskol to protect:
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Hello and thanks for your comments.
Can you please do a step by step of how you achieve your final painting finishes. How long does it take to complete lets say the wheel pants?Yes, of course.
As you'll see, below, it's not a very long or very difficult process.
first part of painting with the exhausts:
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And to finish, the radiator is remade in sheet of aluminum using the original resin part as a template:
Next step, paint.
Bye
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The step area which disappeared during the sanding was remade with aluminum foil.
WCM provides the handles in Photoetche (too flat) or plastic (too big). I've prefered remake them with copper wire:
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The Pitot was remade with steel tube. I replaced the photoetched aileron "trim" with a piece of plastic card, easier to glue:
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The central part of the wing fits without difficulty :
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The console is one-piece to fold. Original but not easy to do. The sight was added and the second access to the cockpit was opened :
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I added the boot on the tail prop. It was made with Milliput :
Capitole Kit Club
in General Discussion
Posted
Hi,
I would like to present you our new models club website: www.ckclub.org
And here are news from August:
Models Builds:
* MS406 de JP
* M50 de Laurent
* P-51A de Serge
* Nieuport 17 d'Adrien
* F-105 de Philippe
Walkarounds:
* Dodge Ambulance
* M26 Pacific
* M727 MIM-23 Hawk
Hope you will like it.
Regards
Philippe