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About metroman

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    1' Modeler

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    Southern Indiana

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  1. Hi Darren - are you talking about C11 from Mr Color? I don't see any other version of LGG from Mr Color but my C11 bottles are not marked as WWII so wondering if you were referencing another LGG from Mr Color - thanks
  2. I scribe using DYMO label tape as a guide for non- severely curved areas. Works great on flat(ter) surfaces and good insurance vs slipping with the scriber. My go to scriber is the UMM Scriber UM-1 For curved areas I go very slow free-handing it, go light on first pass. More depth can be added once the path is good. Now if you find yourself needing to restore missing raised detail (rivets, etc) I highly recommend the raised detail sets from ARCHER - they apply just like decals and blend in with care. Good luck
  3. AK Gauzy Agent, no change to the paint tones just solid protection
  4. I just finished my HB Vark using this Afterburner sheet, picked it up at one of the Columbus Nationals years back along with ordnance marking sheets they debuted. Good stuff.
  5. If you have no luck and move to plan B, I have many portions of SMOKERS Pt2 sheet you can have (options 2,3,4)
  6. I can email you a photo of my set I have an open but unused, complete and undamaged set of the looooong out of production resin flaps and slats resin for a 48th scale F-111 made by Paragon Designs. There are NO instructions - I got it this way at a show many years ago and it's stayed in the kit box ever since, I no longer plan to use. Contains resin parts for the flaps/slats plus photoetch wing sweep covers. Comparing to other photo's this is complete and intact, no damage. NOTE my set is open and does not have the Paragon header card. Will ship however you want but must include delivery confirmation - USA ONLY REPLY in this email chain only $35 firm + shipping via PAYPAL
  7. Nose high goes high Beware the Hun in the sun The ground has a Pk of 100 ...and in a civilian airport setting with only UNICOM service: See, and Be Seen
  8. Share the sentiment - I would go with noon given the earlier access this year. Since I only go for the swap meet the bulk-buyers COMPLETELY kill the show, and I will not return. I do see from a Sellers standpoint how this would be a jackpot, not blind to that.
  9. GO slowly when sliding the jacket over the barrel - ask me how I ruined one. Those barrels are not too tolerant 'out of parameters'. When properly put together a touch of Gators Grip holds the pieces together (on the non-exposed end). Cheers
  10. I love Tamiya fine grain putty for general work. I also use Milliput on more significant gaps, to me it contours easier than CA. Lastly Vallejo 'Plastic Putty' in the long nose tube is a gem for tight spots. Best wishes
  11. Just saw this news drop from ResKit about HB -F set https://reskit.com.ua/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=524
  12. Will make a good backup to the 2nd best paint they've been carrying for years now.
  13. Mr Color can be found at Sprue Brothers, or Hobbyworld USA - be sure to order Gunze 'Self-Leveling Thinner', or you'll be shooting cobwebs; with Mr Color go for about 1:1 ratio paint/self-leveling thinner (It should be skim milk consistency) My compressors at about 15-18 psi, and my Harder & Steenbeck Evolution airbrush has the .2mm tip with the paint flow set at 50% to start then I dial down to the width I want. Build up coats, it goes on sheer but you should consider learning 'paint-buffing' if you already don't. Mr Color also has excellent clear coats to choose from; most colors are semi-gloss which is what I prefer. Lots of instructional videos out there - best to test shoot old kits as cardboard gives deceptive results. Good luck. EDIT - one more thing, I count switching to Mr Color and doing Paint Buffing as the biggest jump in what I was turning out. And wear basic nitrile gloves when handling your model. And keep your work in a sealed box when away - dust is the enemy. Cheers
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