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metroman

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About metroman

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  1. If you are already using Mr Color then stay with that - they have flat, semi-gloss, and gloss, all of which can be mixed to give even more variants.
  2. I'll vote for any candidate that penalizes releases like these.
  3. The French Special boxing does not include the sprue with the wing ordnance pylons, nor the Zunis or the dual AIM-9 mounts. You do get the single AIM-9 mounts. Also the tail includes the larger ECM shape.
  4. I thought the conventional wisdom was the hobby was toast after Mike Grant popped his Smoke Ring decals­čśä (I remember that maelstrom)
  5. This won't be a helpful answer. Are there any good enamel lines nowadays? The collective wisdom/reviews say the 'new' Humbrol is fully bypassable. White Ensign? eh, tried them and moved on - were very hard to obtain in the US. And they took forever (and still weeks later) to cure. Testors MM is gone. It had it's time. But thick-pigments, flat finish, and so slooow to fully cure enamels are a hindrance to better modeling, that's why better came along in the form of synthetic lacquers. GSI Mr Color is without peer. Ultra sheer, semi-gloss finish and a metric ton of color choi
  6. I don't know the answer however I ran into my own created situation on my recent AM Helldiver - I choose the resin Attack Squadron 2 x 1000lb AP bombs not having checked how the kits trapeze would matchup. Turns our those AP resin bombs are more slender than the kits 500lb bombs and, like you, was left to figure out how to close that gap. I never found a good answer so cheated and used shims - the gap was barely 1mm so I cleverly (?) just ran with that, works for me. Good luck on finding out!
  7. MHaz would have my printing company do his placement guides for a number of their releases, the A-4 Aggressor sheets being the last ones. Fantastic detail as DR mentioned. He also got me in on doing the guides for a E-2 Hawkeye Screwtops sheet back at a Nats years ago. I know he had some seriously tough family issues to deal with.
  8. My take on this... I build only 48th aircraft and used to go flat out for accuracy and max details, but post-40 eyesight and scarcer model time have had me transition towards less resin, less PE, and less AMS overall. That last part is such a blessing to be rid of - I have rediscovered the 'hobby' and that I don't give a rat's behind about what someone opines about a myriad of things. I can actually get projects done. The signal to noise ratio on these forums can be low however. Good luck in your approach, it's been golden years lately in the resurgence of kits and techniques.
  9. I just received my GX100/GX114 today, bought from SprayGunner (Ebay) with whom I've had multiple reliable orders. Just in time as I'm nearing the final clear coats stage on my AM SB2C-4. I will experiment first using my Harder & Steenbeck Evolution .15 nozzle, including various levels of thinning with Mr Leveling Thinner, Psi, etc.
  10. I had an business transaction with SB couple years ago with my day job, I was amazed by their owners arrogance but more so his out-of-the-blue attacks on my company just because at the time we did not accept Amex and came 'this' close to telling him to take a hike. Petulant people light the bridges they cross.
  11. Hi Darren - are you talking about C11 from Mr Color? I don't see any other version of LGG from Mr Color but my C11 bottles are not marked as WWII so wondering if you were referencing another LGG from Mr Color - thanks
  12. I scribe using DYMO label tape as a guide for non- severely curved areas. Works great on flat(ter) surfaces and good insurance vs slipping with the scriber. My go to scriber is the UMM Scriber UM-1 For curved areas I go very slow free-handing it, go light on first pass. More depth can be added once the path is good. Now if you find yourself needing to restore missing raised detail (rivets, etc) I highly recommend the raised detail sets from ARCHER - they apply just like decals and blend in with care. Good luck
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